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Drop in a stealth tranny and call it a day

Alot o guys say to cut down some worn outdrives. They are metal and the same size. Or good luck finding the black idlers. I think 6612 or 6614 the other # is the outdrives. You got bearings in it?

RC104ever wrote:Drop in a stealth tranny and call it a day

+1

Stealth transmissions are available on e-bay for about $30.00 and you can buy almost all the parts except(and correct me if I am wrong) the left outdrive.

Been running one in my OIN Build with a 10.5 for years without any issues.

associated had a metal template that came with the aftermarket stealth transmission for the 2.25. all you did was bolt it in and drill the chassis. real easy to do.

Harrylarry wrote:Alot o guys say to cut down some worn outdrives. They are metal and the same size. Or good luck finding the black idlers. I think 6612 or 6614 the other # is the outdrives. You got bearings in it?

thats a great idea if you can cut the outdrives down. i never though of that.

wait a minute wrote:

Harrylarry wrote:Alot o guys say to cut down some worn outdrives. They are metal and the same size. Or good luck finding the black idlers. I think 6612 or 6614 the other # is the outdrives. You got bearings in it?

thats a great idea if you can cut the outdrives down. i never though of that.

Mike, I'm pretty sure thats what Chad @ Dynotech was doing-

[/quote]
Mike, I'm pretty sure thats what Chad @ Dynotech was doing-[/quote]

cool.

rc10wishlist wrote:i just need to know what i should do with my original 6 gear tranny in my rc10 when i already have new electronics batterys and motors,the faster motors keep tearing up my idler gears(22t32p)and i cant find metal idlers for this tranny so i was wondering what i should do

I have rebuilt a few of the 6 gear trannys and would recommend using the updated black idler gears I think I can come up with part number I got them on e-bay later Bkerman

So i'm in the process of resurecting my 1990 RC10 graphite team car that I built when I was 16 and raced weekly for 2-3 years and I need some help. I've spent a good amount of time on this site and I'm trying to get up to speed with all the new tech. I have completely disassembled the car and rebuilt it, including the stealth tranny and shocks, and now i'm ready to put some new goodies into it. Through recommendations on this thread I ordered a gt3b controller, Gens Ace 5000mah 40c LiPo battery and a charger through hobbypartz. Now I need a some help on the motor and ESC. I'm still not sure I understand the ratings of the motors and what my car can handle. Unfortunately there are no tracks in my area so I will probably be using the car mainly on asphalt. My next question is rims and tires. I'd like to upgrade to some new rims but i'm not sure what will fit and what options I have. I'm also interested in some recommendations on tires. Thanks in advance.

For the last cpl years i have been racing every wk or 2 an in my 10T i use the havoc 2s sport 8.5 setup with great performance an reliability. In my sc10 i have the havoc 2s an 10.5 spec setup with same results. Dont like the havoc 3s as it died after 1 race day. Both systems about 140us buks. I have 2.4ghz 2pl radio which is plenty good enuff 4 club racing an it has the best range i have ever had. For servos i use cs 140 hobbico digital servos in all my rigs for about 35to40us these are good value an never had a std size hobbico servo failure in 3yrs. Lipo i have few yeh racing 3200 20c paks which have been great,the figures don't do these batt justice they are great size an are so light they make sum lipos feel like bricks an i get 2 races 5min from each. U get em at rcmart 35us each. I have 2 speed passion cirtix setups 11.5 an 17.5 an they are ok ,motors look a little cheap an i have rarely run them as they are in my shelf occasional runner rc10 buggys but at 80buks a setup they are good but remain unraced as of now. If i was goin to get a better higher priced hobbywing or speed passion system around 140to 150us i would urge that u buy a novak or other systems in that price range to make sure u get all u can for that amount of coin. I got no help from novak for the 3s that died, being from oz an that i bought it from tower hobbies, but the two 2s havoc setups i have had 3yrs an never even had 2 change motor bearings or anything they have been bullet proof. My 2cent ramblings

Thanks Bully. Still trying to get a handle on which motors I should look at. I see some are rated in kvXXXX and some are "turns". Will some be quicker but use more battery or are some more top end speed and others off the line? What will a 17turn motor give me a 13.5t won't. Just trying to figure it all out and make the right decision the first time. Also still looking for some rim and tire help.

17.5/13.5 will ultimately mean more power and speed with less to no maintenance, however if your just tooling around the block or a park it really won't matter if you go brushless or not. JC racing in the UK makes direct fit rims in 2.2 that look a lot like the old HPI 5 spoke rims and they will fit the rear axles with no mods and are available on eBay.
Your other option is Duratrax evader front rims and Thundertiger phoenix BX rear rims and a upgrade to a b2 cvd set and new rear hubs and bearings to run the 3/16 axles (towerhobbies).

Thanks a bunch! I'd love to find a track in my area and get back into racing with my 8 year old son. I'm in Salem Ma. if anyone knows of anything in these parts. Do most people choose a motor based on the catogory they race in? Any input by any members on what there running and how they like it would be appreciated. Is there a pont where your just asking to break stuff?

Lots of great information here. Since I gave up racing, my technology has been stuck in the 90's (Nimh/brushed motors/AM radio). Those have been fine for my occasional parking lot running, but I just learned of a new RC shop near me that's building a racing complex. One of their tracks is going to be a dirt oval, and my arousal factor just went through the roof. However, I need an education, in layman terms, on the modern technology/terminology.
Mainly:
1.) What do the Lipo battery ratings (1s, 2s / 20c, 30c etc.) mean, as opposed to Mah ratings?
2.) What do Kv ratings on motors mean? I see windings listed, as well. On brushed motors, I understand turns and wind ratings (ex: 13t double), but Kv is foreign to me.
3.) What is the advantage, or need to having the 2.4 Ghz radio system?

Sorry if I hijacked the thread, but this seemed like the most logical place to post. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Russ, some short answers:

Lipos

You need to look for a few different things. Each "cell" is 3.7 volts, cells are noted in "S" config - 1S - 3.7v, 2S - 7.4v (what you will need) - 3S - 11.1v...and so on. Next is "C" rating. C rating is used in conjuntion with MaH (run time) of the pack. Take the C and take the MaH then do math to see if that is what you want, the higher the better of course. 5000 MaH (or 50, chop the 2 last zeros off) 30C battery = 150a continuous power.

Kv (brushless motors)

Kv is the RPM per volt rating of motors. Most "winds" have very similar Kv ratings. Stock classes use a 17.5 (wind) brushless motor. Modified/Open classes are well, open for the most part . Same theory as old brushed motors, the lower the winds, the faster the motor (and the more demand they place on the batteries, so get some good ones!)

2.4 radios

super simple...no crystals ever. Dont clear your frequency, just turn on and go.