RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

So far I really like the look and finish of the academy stuff. I use to be a losi guy, but switched to my T4 when I got into racing. I have been disapointed with my T4 and if these academy buggies are good than I might sell the T4 and switch to TQ once they take over.

I own a B4, RB5 and GV2 and their previous versions. I prefer the B4. The GV2 is a real nice buggy. I switched my GV2 to J Concepts Rulux wheels for the same reason I'd like to do the same with the SB.

Will the rulux wheels bolt on or do any wheels other than mrc?

Just got the buggy from ups yesterday and it's a SB sport carbon edition version 2. It still has the cam style motor mount, but from the research I've found it looks like the carbon version 2 is compatible with thd sbv2. The diffs are interchangeable which is great since the steel outdrives are available for the sbv2. It also came with an Lrp Vector X-11 4.5t brushless motor and sensor cable. I definitely got my money's worth on this deal.

Well, how about some better pics then?

I will definitely have to get some better pics. The buggy is in really good shape so I'm looking reward to venturing into racing it.

VW, I ran for Academy for a couple years with the SB V1 cars you have. A few different issues arose constantly (some addressed in the SBV2 design).

flat chassis - you use mounts to set the rake of the front end.
motor mount is horrid - KOSE mounts were the bomb, I had a machinist friend make me a few KOSE copies (rare item though)
outdrives are brittle - if you dont limit the up travel of the shocks, you will break outdrives in half

I loved the car IF I didnt over power it. (Brushed days) a 19T double and 17T single were my favorites. As soon as I jumped to a 12T quad, the car just acted funny and broke constantly (torsional twist is all I can think of).

SBV1



SBV2

I read in a thread on rctech that you were a driver for them. I've been reading everything I can on this car and the newer ones. I hadn't seen anyone post anything about limiting up travel to help the outdrives. That's good to know. I'm going to get the newer diffs with the steel outdrives to help the issue as well.

What problems arise from the flat chassis and using blocks for kickup?

Also I read somewhere the sbv2 motor mount bolts onto this chassis to fix the cam style problem. I plan on laying all the parts out this weekend and seeing how everything is and then calling mrc with questions.

Just to be clear - both cars you have are SB generation 1, there were 2 version of the gen 1 pro, V1 and V2, changes to the hubs/carriers/CVD set ups only, everything else was the same. Not sure about the true V2 motor mount on the gen 1 car, but nothing a little dremel and a drill cant fix

the SB V2 car (generation 2) has plastic outdrives with a steel outdrive available, the gen 1 car had steel to begin with. you can avoid the breaking outdrives by using a "saver" of some type. basically a metal ring around the outer most portion of the outdrive, small enough you can slide the dogbone ears under, but big enough to prevent the outdrives from spreading (and breaking).

I had issues with the flat chassis on rough tracks, with the kickup in the chassis, you have more ground clearance than the flat chassis car. i know it is only mm we are talking about, but i seemed to nose over a bunch. Im sure there are better explanations than mine, more technical and precise, but I know when I changed to the true V2 car, it "felt" better.

Well I definitely need to order the steel outdrives.

I get what you're saying about the kickup.

I'm going to run these to figure out if I like racing 4wd buggies. If I do then sometime next year I can upgrade to the one I want. I knew there would be some issues with these, but they should be a good start.

dont get me wrong, right tires and mild motor, these cars are great, i made many a mains with them. but as i attempted to get faster, i ran out of talent (and the car oddities became apparent).

nice mild motor (i think this car would love a 13.5 brushless) right tires, decent set up, decent driver...put you in the main most days. 4wd mod tends to become more of who finished than who is fastest (at a club level anyways)...

To finish first...you must first finish

Oh that's good. I was thinking of going with a 13.5. The guy before ran a 4.5 but that seems overkill. I've seen a lot of the buggies breaking for sure. So I have no problem going slower and finishing.

I'll have no problem making the A main though. As long as I don't break I'll make it for sure. We run 8 cars per race, and we usually only have 5-6 4wd mod buggies.
I dont plan on winning, but I will be able to get use to it and improve my driving techniques. The short course classes are so full anymore that it's starting to lose it's luster. The last race had 27 entries in just stock short course!! I am going to try and sell my blitz and T4 and focus on 4wd mod buggy and maybe get one of the pti racing mm2 converted gv2t's for short course.

Well I have been my first attempt at a custom paintjob. It turned decent but there is a few spots I screwed up. My biggest problem was that I didn't realize the vent hole on the paint bottle in my airbrush was plugged solid. So it was spitting paint instead of spraying it. I realized the issue after I finsihed the main colors. All that's left is to back the bocy with silver.

Well I just about have this buggy ready to race. I upgraded the steering bellcranks to bearings from Avid rc, got the body painted and picked up new Mrc wheels, and have a motor for it now. I was going to throw a 13.5t motor in the car, but another racer was selling 3 10.5t motors since the 10.5 WGT class he was racing went away. So I have 3 10.5 motors that never had more than a 1cell lipo ran thru them so I'll use one of the Trinity Duo's that I bought.

Rebuilding the diffs and shocks tonight and mounting the electronics, then go and drive it at the Toys for Tots race this saturday.

Even with the airbrush problems I was having I'm still pretty pleased with how the body came out.

Does anyone have any insight to what a good starting point is with the pinion? I have a 70t spur on the buggy and I'm thinking of trying a 28t pinion? That's what's recommended on the Novak gear calculator.

that gearing sounds a bit on the tall side, i will see if i can find any of my old info on how i geared it when i was running one.

3 X 10.5's...i am jealous i'm moving to mod next season, that is the wind of choice i picked, its on my wish list for christmas