The Next Level: Team Losi JRX2

[Eau Rouge]

Shocks dry?

All my Losi cars are 90% dry. Everyone that I have gotten, prior to rebuild/restore, have all leaked. I think I lubed mine then drained the oil out, just in effort to preserve the O rings.

Filled them and sealed them with Green Slime. That stuff works pretty well to keep everything sealed up tight. I used vintage Robinson shock oils, too, that didn't swell o-rings like today's oils do.

[templeofspeed]

If I can bring myself to build the battery pack:

Not an RC10 , but you're talking about a Losi so...

Delta Super Phaser, Novak NES1A servos, NER2S receiver on 27mhz AM I've got the 1200SC batteries in the bag and a period correct Airtronics radio. Tires are sauced and ready for carpet munching.

Let's go!!

Vintage racing needs to start now! No supercross, old school fluffy potting soil for offroad or lumpy Ozite for onroad.

[Synergy]

Gorgeous I'm jel jel

[Snake Plissken]

came out super nice. looks like you jumped back to 1990 and brought back the car! Next time you make the trip, can I give you money to buy me some Microsoft stock?

Personally I'm not into 'like new' restorations. I like my cars complete and ready to run, but in a used state -it gives character to the car (I think you are trying to achieve the same effect with the vintage electronics and hop ups). It certainly makes my restorations cheaper!

[Asso_man!]

Awesome resto job Doug, gotta love those JRX-2's, especially with all the ORANGE period correct electronics, it will now look even better with a nice body, V-wing and black Losi wing mounts, I wish you good look in that next quest

[johnqpublic]

Where did you find those old school shock collars, and do they have any more? LOL

Looks great!

[Eau Rouge]

Where did you find those old school shock collars, and do they have any more? LOL

Looks great!

I stopped looking because no one had them new. I figured out that buying used JRX2 shocks off of eBay was the only way to get the proper collars. I wound up buying 2 pairs of used shocks to get the collars I needed. If you notice, two are black and two are dark gray. Not perfect, but close. One of them is still even partially cracked and hanging on by a thread. lol

I have the wing wire and adjustable wing buttons ready and waiting. I have a line on a straight wing but I'm not sure if I want to go through the trouble or just wait for the proper version. I may take a crack this weekend at massaging the original body to see if the trims and cuts can be salvaged.



d

[Dr. Robotnik]

That looks awesome and is the state I'd like to get my cars in. They surely have to be fully period correct ready to run

Quick question though, are the electronics all soldered to each other like the battery, motor and esc?

If so where are the plugs?

If not is this how things should be/were done?

Is it not a bit of a pain for racing and such?

Cheers

Ed

[Asso_man!]

the more the plugs, the more you loose power

[Eau Rouge]

Correct, plugs are just voltage loss, especially in that era (the plugs weren't zero loss like some are now). This was the first car I ran that I started direct soldering everything in, so I wired it the same. Everyone at the top levels did this, so we all carted out soldering irons to the track every weekend.

The pack is connected together with battery braid (that's what we used before battery bars) and the solder tabs are .25" wide .040" thick brass stock. The only thing the electronics system is missing are the capacitors and diodes that early Novaks required. I kept them off for cleanliness.

Funny thing is, I hard wired all electric cars for 15+ years, and I now use Corally-type bullet connectors on all of my electric cars.

[aconsola]

I stopped looking because no one had them new. I figured out that buying used JRX2 shocks off of eBay was the only way to get the proper collars. I wound up buying 2 pairs of used shocks to get the collars I needed. If you notice, two are black and two are dark gray. Not perfect, but close. One of them is still even partially cracked and hanging on by a thread. lol
d

Those skinny collars are elusive nip. Even the clamps in the packs with the 5-link rear lower mounts are all the newer style. I've seen just about every part NIP in the last year that I have been collecting except for the old battery box and the skinny clamps.

Doug, which motor plate it on there? blank, jrx-2, or jrx-2 with the front cutout?
-Anthony

[mrlexan]

Those skinny collars are elusive nip. Even the clamps in the packs with the 5-link rear lower mounts are all the newer style. I've seen just about every part NIP in the last year that I have been collecting except for the old battery box and the skinny clamps.

I think (THINK) I have quite a few of those when I was doing all those Losi builds back in December. When I can find them (in storage), I can let you guys know what I come up with.

Doug, which motor plate it on there? blank, jrx-2, or jrx-2 with the front cutout?

Good question! Way to put him on the spot for period correctness.

[Eau Rouge]

Doug, which motor plate it on there? blank, jrx-2, or jrx-2 with the front cutout?

OEM kit motor plate with the JRX2 engraving...

[aconsola]

Doug, which motor plate it on there? blank, jrx-2, or jrx-2 with the front cutout?

OEM kit motor plate with the JRX2 engraving...

nice rear end
Does the plate have the cutout up front for the inner camberlink mount?
do the side links have 2 shock mount holes or 4?
I'm just curious, not trying to give you a hard time

It seems that like the rc-10 there were several changes during the production run for the jrx-2 and possibly jrx-t.
variations I know of:
black and white bellcranks
different motor plates
2 styles of rear bulkhead
battery box
rear suspension link changes

-Anthony

[Asso_man!]

yep, and those four holes in the H arms are not present on mine, just plain plastic with no holes