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very nice. I sent you a pm about buying some decals also

Loving the paint jobs! Great to see some nicely painted Losi shells, makes me want a JRX! Hehehe

Doesn;t look like anyone had mentioned it to you yet, but you can run narrow offset (or deep depending on how you look at it) modern wheels (B4 for example) on a 5link. You just have to put a 1/8 in spacer on the rear hub between the hub ball and the hub. This moves the link inward a little - just enough to clear the rim and tire. You may also need a 1/8 spacer on the axle as well, but cannot remember. I'll see if I can find a link to a helpful thread. I know there's one about how to do this...

FOUND IT!! I think its the 13th post down by aconsola - formula for b4 wheels on a 5 link...

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=6453

I am loving all these losis, very nice work and welcome to the board... now lets see some RC10s?

Thanks guys! About the decals, im doing some printer repairs / upgrades right now. These repairs are a major set back but sometimes you need to step back to move ahead. As soon as Im back up, ill setup some body kit graphics and post them in the BST section. Im also working on the "Vintage RC" section of my site, which I call the "Evil Clone" of the BMX site interface. Its blue, so purty!

About the "paint", the only painting I did was the base color, with my own window masks. Rustoleum I think Everything else in an outer decal. I tried inner reverse decals on clear, but its too difficult for me to detail like that. I like doing a little at a time, then stepping back to see what looks right and what doesnt. Outer decals are best for that, for me anyways. No, no RC10's... for now at least

Thanks for that link about the spacing. If I wind up not using the stock wheels on the JRXT im getting soon, and decide on newer wheels with that issue, ill go that route with spacing. Otherwise these LXT arms are soooooo sweet. I picked up 2" overall width, minus the 2.2 offset. I just need longer 4-40 steering rods which ill pick up at the track on saturday.

Today I setup some spare fans to cool things down. Im looking into a motor heatsink / fan as well. I still need to get a few 12v car alarm remote batterys, holders, and possibly a Venom Temp Fail Safe (if I can find my old one)... to turn on the fans when needed. Ill most likely skip that and just run the fans off a switch the entire time of the run. The fans blow onto the battery and ESC, not the opposite way of removing heat. I plan to make an air intake tunnel out of thin lexan from my plotter, kind of like sheet metal ducts in an office ceiling, directing air through and past the ESC heatsinks, out the shock tower holes.

Has anyone ever tried fitting dobone style universal joints into the moulded outdrives right off the trans? The ball joints look similar to dogbones... The reason I ask is that I decided to create something with the extra extra spares that I have. I wont give it away till I get started, Im only 20$ into it so far, just waiting on those parts to begin

Heres a pic of the fan setup, and the new width, with the LXT arms. The front and rear match up with about a 1/16 difference, awesome!

UltraHIVE wrote:Has anyone ever tried fitting dobone style universal joints into the moulded outdrives right off the trans? The ball joints look similar to dogbones... The reason I ask is that I decided to create something with the extra extra spares that I have. I wont give it away till I get started, Im only 20$ into it so far, just waiting on those parts to begin

First off....great looking stuff, would love to see more info about the bearings in the 5 link set up

You can put a dog bone into the stock plastic outdrive, BUT...dont plan on your suspension working afterwards. As the arms cycled up/down, the dogbone would plunge into and out of the cup, or if you watch your slider shafts, the move in and out as the suspension cycles. MIP made cups that bolted where the stock outdrive units go, I have some, I can shoot a picture if I find them.

JK Racing wrote:

UltraHIVE wrote:Has anyone ever tried fitting dobone style universal joints into the moulded outdrives right off the trans? The ball joints look similar to dogbones... The reason I ask is that I decided to create something with the extra extra spares that I have. I wont give it away till I get started, Im only 20$ into it so far, just waiting on those parts to begin

First off....great looking stuff, would love to see more info about the bearings in the 5 link set up

You can put a dog bone into the stock plastic outdrive, BUT...dont plan on your suspension working afterwards. As the arms cycled up/down, the dogbone would plunge into and out of the cup, or if you watch your slider shafts, the move in and out as the suspension cycles. MIP made cups that bolted where the stock outdrive units go, I have some, I can shoot a picture if I find them.

Thanks, ill try to re-create the process and take pics while I do it, since Ive taken that apart allready. As far as the dogbone being used, it would be at a fixed and level position. I found one that works but Im looking into an alternative method just in case. Cant say much more without giving it away, but its exciting

Updates on the silver X2, first track run with LXT wider arms... Despite T4 glitches, and transmitter issues, the X2 it was on point. 6 consecutive laps right off the bat, amazing difference in handling. Then I hit a pole and cracked the right front camber rod and shock tower arm, right at the extra holes I had drilled by mistake. Its a Pro front tower, and I have an extra one, but I decided to change it up. I borowed more parts from my shelf Pro, swapping out some parts. I rebuilt all the shocks this time, good thing these were all near mint and the seals were snug. After studying and applying knowledge, from a few pro's cars at the track, I think my suspension is perfect. I used shorter front shocks and longer rears this time, with a low profile front tower. Then I cut a strip of fiberglass from the broken tower as a brace. I upgraded the one rod to titanium, gonna hold out till the other side breaks before I replace it

I also traded my cousin a few small things for his 3ch 2.4 B4 radio and receiver, retiring my second gen Magnum Junior FM 75, channel 68 baby! I had picked up a used Intellispeed 8T, but revese is blown out, thanks Ebay duesh, (-) feedback on the way. Im hoping the T4 operates better with this radio. I wired a relay I used to use doing car alams, using the 3rd channel button, to flip the motor wires, to gain revese. Havent installed it yet but it should work for now.

Some updates on the beast...

I decided to experiment while the local track closed down, and a new track is on its way. First I swapped out the T4 for a Tekin I had in a shelfed Jrx Pro, WOW what a difference. The T4 would overheat with ease from the 13t running. Now with an 8t Reedy Krypton, it runs longer and faster, about 15 minutes on a 5000mah Nimh. I retired the T4 to my JRXT with a stock Revolution motor and 3000mah Nimh. No problems with it now, thankfully. Next was a successfull attempt at a mid motor mount, by flipping around the rear end 180 degrees. Besides some battery cell relocation, only minor adjustments to get it performing really well. I used an unidentified 4 hole rear pivot mount to secure the rear end. I have 2 of these, not sure from which vehicle. Just waiting on another track to open to test it out. In the meantime, my JRXT with Proline Striker road tires is alot of fun

Hey nice decals and rides.

Now I hate to be a spoiler, but could it be that the bearrings in the 5-link have no real effect? I mean for a ball bearring to work one half of the connection (lets say a front 2Wd wheel for example) has to connected to the outer ring and the other half of the connection (front wheel axle to stay with the example) is "connected to the inner ring.

Maybe I just didn't get it from the pics.

Still cool stuff.

Chewie.

thanks Chewie... are u asking about the ball bearing 5 link mod post? i should probably take that down since im not running that anymore.

the factory H clip shock mount kept the bottom link straight, but since I didnt have any to use, I went with a ball end and then eventually a dubro style end. this creates vibration at high speeds. the bearings were to keep the links straight and from vibrating.

the link holes were worn out where the balls sit, so to keep the links from popping off, you need a washer or bearing if you want to keep them on tight. since that post ive gained a few sets of those H clips i was missing. my stock JRX2 uses a stock 5 link setup without the bearing mod. my JRXT uses pro rear A arms, my racer JRX2 (JLXT) uses LXT A arms.

I'm going to bring this thread back. Louis, where did you get the window mesh pattern? I want some for the XXX body I'm about to paint.