Thanks again guys. My apologies on not posting more pictures, including how the chassis is mounted. I went for a run this week and proceeded to hurt my foot , so I haven't had chance to get the pictures taken. Maybe today after work...
A tip on the chassis, if you search around, you can find the tuber chassis for a MUCH better price online than what is posted at Tower. I'm a Tower fan, but on this item, you can get a better deal elsewhere.
pastimesteve wrote:My apologies on not posting more pictures, including how the chassis is mounted. I went for a run this week and proceeded to hurt my foot , so I haven't had chance to get the pictures taken.
You take pictures with your foot?? Sorry, I suffer from diarrhea of the keyboard sometimes...
Avoid the Nike Shox. I bought a pair when they first came out, but they killed my back after the first few runs.
"The world looks so much better through beer goggles: Enjoy today, you never know what tomorrow may bring." Ken
THEYTOOKMYTHUMB wrote:
You take pictures with your foot?? Sorry, I suffer from diarrhea of the keyboard sometimes...
Avoid the Nike Shox. I bought a pair when they first came out, but they killed my back after the first few runs.
That is some funny stuff there! Good point, but it hurts to put any weight on it. I'm 41 and falling apart. I used some relatively cheap shoes and I paid the price after 3 miles. Now, the arch on my left foot is a mess. I'll probably buy some kind of arch support until I have money to buy better shoes.
Hi guys -- here are a couple of outdoor shots from today's initial run. I was pretty happy with it, although the EZRun system would have performed much better with LIPO rather than the old NIMH batteries I was using today. It seems to be durable as I bashed it fairly hard with the only failure being a ball joint popping out (install error on my part). Needless to say, it's not as clean now.
It jumps well and goes over just about any terrain with the Pro-Line SC wheels and the Blitz tires. Yes, Willy's eyes are creepy, but in his defense, that could be the result of bad painting!
Doug, I know, I know. I'm sorry. Life has been a bit hectic and I totally missed taking pictures of the chassis install on Sunday. Anyway, the whole thing is fastened to the B2 chassis -- which has to be cut down -- by two bolts (one bolt on each side joining the tuber chassis to the B2 modded chassis). That's about it. The front shocks are attached directly to the tuber chassis using holes I drilled. To be honest, the front needs more rigidity, because other than the shocks and the two bolts further in on the side pods of the chassis, there's nothing else keeping the front in place.
Diggley, you're too kind. Thanks man! That means a lot. There's so many ultra talented people on here -- much more talented than me.
Ok so I think this is my inspiration. I bought one of the metal tuber chassis setups on fleabay and want a long suspension travel, wide arm Frankenstein.
I'm going to use the buggy nose plate due to the compatibility with this roll cage/tuber...
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It's just not going to have the same look as the A&L tall tower with the 10t shocks and arms, but I'll be watching to see what happens.
Yep, I like the look of the big front tower you have as well. Thanks for the input guys, I ll think it over but...
This can happens if you place a bid on your iPhone and are in a hurry… This bountiful buggy is now mine for $10, anyone interested? :lol: :lol: :lol:
Anyone done this before, won something you didn’t bargain for?
I am trying to attempt to make an rc10 tuber chassis (probably wont happen for a while) but first I would like to make a 3D model on the computer to go by but I have virtually no information on these cars. any pictures of the frames would be greatly...
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nice build looks pretty sweet. Do you know if you can weld the tubes together because I have no brazing stuff nor do I know how to braze.
i had another dude build it for me... now that i know how to do it, i could bang out that chassis in a...
Im a long time RC10 fan and actually lived only a few blocks from the original Edinger location back in the early 80's. I spent allot of time in that old shop and even owned some of the very first RC10's. Im still running them and have built my...
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Just did a google search and the link to this thread popped up. Awesome looking SRB... I always love seeing these well-executed custom jobs. I can't wait til Mike Dealer releases his chassis. What sort of paint did you use on the frame? Is it...
I broke a wing mount on my Tamiya TL-01B (long arm / off-road (Buggy) version of the TL-01);
I believe this chassis was offered as the Baja King, and Baja Champ.
I have a question about the parts tree(s) that include this wing mount.
I found one...
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Things like the arms are two piece, so you get one front and one rear assembly. Camber and sterring links, battery holders, etc are all one side. Front and rear bumpers iirc are the same on some.
I've wanted a tube caged RC10 since joining the forum. What would be a cool platform? Trailing Arm, semi-vintage from Factory Works! I already had some of the components to get started, that made the choice pretty easy. Here's a couple of pics to...
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Looks nice, Nomad. Yes, that wing will be tricky to mount but I have confidence you'll find a clever solution.
Well done!! :D
Thank you, brother :D
I have a brain spurt about it, came about at lunch today. a pivot with position locking screws...
Thanks to CraigB on the site here, I'm the proud new owner of this here goldpan CE. I've been reliving my childhood by rebuilding and racing Kyosho optimas (my first rc), but I had a 6 gear goldpan too that was no slouch 25 years ago. I built a RB5...
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Very nice build! Any idea of who made those aluminum rims?
Here are some pics of my RC10 Baja Bug project. I first got my RC10 in 1985 with the gold pan design. Over the years it evolved from many parts from Hot Trick Stuff to include a red graphite chassis, red bumper and red support rails, new front/rear...