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less caster angle will give you more sensitive steering/turn in, and less high speed stability. Check the T2 manual to see what came from the factory (I couldn't tell ya).

Stock were 30 deg, either 25 or 30 as a rule for current tires and surfaces-

Thanks all for the info. Thanks Vintage AE for the welcome. Yes, this board is awesome and incredibly helpful.

Yeah, I think 30 degree is most appropriate for me.

I used to be a very avid racer. I didnt race for nearly 13 years or so. Recently I've rediscovered the hobby and remember why I loved it so much. Current work schedule, and 1 hour drive, has any track time limited, but working on that. I likely do more reading, researching, buying and wrenching than driving at the moment... but EVERYONE of my cars or runners. No shelf queens for me.

My only original car that is still running is my RC10T2. I remember placing the order for my team kit when I was 14ish (i think) from Tower Hobbies. It was a proud day. Heh, I actually called them to order.

I need to take and post some pics, I pretty much have almost every upgrade imaginable. Currently its in a state of rebuild as I finish off my full metal tranny and v2 slipper. Bulletproofing was top on my list after my first run on a clay track.

The last to get upgraded is my front hubs. I want to go with the sc10/t4 setup as I think it will give me a little more width. I also have to pick up the t4 cvd axles and 3/16 shims to get a little more width in the rear as well.

Thanks again all for the info.

You will need to change the rear hubs as well on the T2 to the T4/T4.1 type to make the CVA's work as well

They aren't the same axle diameter, 3/16" or whatever?

Will that mess with geometry negatively? Also, are there any other mods required? Drilling to 1/8"?

ljh501 wrote:They aren't the same axle diameter, 3/16" or whatever?

Will that mess with geometry negatively? Also, are there any other modes required? Drilling to 1/8"?

Yeah, they are 3/16'' but the T4 CVA is longer and wont fit the length of the arm without the T4 hub, you do have to drill out the T4 hinge pin to 1/8", but otherwise that's it- and.. if you are using the T4/SC10 front hub and axel then the geometry increase matches up-

I did this to my 10t runner, and can post some images if you need

Thanks, I think I got it... hmm now I have to decide if I wanna stay low key or add a little more purple bling to the truck.

Are you running aluminum hubs anywhere? My dremmel and a good bit should still do the trick.

Its dressed up classy with some some purple ano... I'm avoiding doing too much I hope =]

If you're putting t4 caster blocks on a T you will want the 25 degree ones. The T4 chassis has 25degrees of kickup and the T has 30. If you put 30 degree caster blocks from a T4 on a 10t you will actually have 35 degrees on your 10t. Hope that's not too confusing of an explanation.