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Thanks but I have a machine tool shop here that carries several different taps.

I will try the heat, I also have a couple other ideas to try as well. Will see how it goes.

Jake

patiently waiting the unveiling

Well here is a small taste of things to come.

These are some rear hubs I machined. I have to go back to the drawing board though, made some changes to the plans.

nice hub's

Well, If you haven't done anything with the diff outdrives yet, this is what I would try. Do not heat the outdrives, as this will aneal them. Heat the screw portion sticking out of the outdrive. If you have an electric stove, turn it on high, and hold the tip of the screw on the red hot metal. This will transfer the heat to the screw, and because of the JB weld not so much to the outdrive. Hopefully this will melt or breakdown the JB weld. After this you might be able to grab the screw with a pair of pliers and unscrew it. If this doesn't loosen it, at least this way the screwr should be nice and soft so you can drill it out. -Jeff

Jeff, I was able to get the screws out of the diff halves without using anything but a great set of pliers. The threads are still intact and no damage was done. I have ran a 2mm tap through just to make sure and I am now set. I am waiting for my new parts to arrive and I willl start rebuilding this car with plans to go out and attend some races. Should be a fun car to build.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Jake

the hubs are great. and may fit 834B rear as well

I finally got most of my parts in and I can begin working on bringing this car back to life.

I started with the front driveline. I wanted to retrofit some modern CVDs to the car but couldn't find any that would work (I didn't look that hard either). I found a pair of 3 inch long CVDs that were about 1/4 inch too long. I cut the CVD in half and machined a new shaft out of solid stainless steel rod. After some fitting I got the CVD to the right length. The ends have been drilled and the old CVD parts are pressed into the shaft. The CVD will be permanantly pinned so I won't have to worry about the thing coming apart or slipping once I put power to the car. I will taper the shaft ends once I have the enitre CVD pinned together.

The next task was the axle. I have plans to run one way bearings in the front of the car. The associated axles work great with the CVD but are not the right size. I turned the CVD down to 4mm to accept the 4mm one way bearing and also cut it down to size. I ended up changing the front hub bearing from 5mm x 10mm to a 4mm x 10mm.

The last step was machining a new hub to accept the one way bearing. I hollowed out the hub for the bearing as well as opening up the hole to allow a socket to access the nut. I still need to thread the end of the axle but that is a pretty simple job. The one way bearing is pressed into the hub (tight fit) and I will also be placing some set screws in the hub to make sure the bearing doesn't move. So far it is holding the bearing in place without any problems.

Everything fits great and I still have full range of steering and suspension travel. I still need to tie up some loose ends but the hard work is done.

Enjoy the pics. More to follow soon...

Jake

Again, wow!!!! are you going to try it without the one way setup as well?

I really want the one way setup to work so that is what I am after first. If it does not work, I will revert back to the standard hub style. If I get the one way to work I may end up making the parts for the a standard setup to have the best of both worlds. Since this car will have some one off stuff, I won't be able to buy anything off the shelf expecting it to work.

It would be nice to have something as a back up if the one way ever failed. Since I plan to run this car, it is probably a good idea.

Jake

Just wondering because the "other" hubs that you did will go on my 870 with a 1 way on the gear adapter, but I know that at my local track the cars work way better without the one way because of a much better traction bias with 4 wheel braking-

Well with that said, I will be making the parts for the standard hubs as well. It would nice to be able change the front end depending on the track I am at.

Plus it costs me nothing but a little time in the garage.

Jake

I figured as much I know the 1 way can be great, or a real down fall sometimes-

Very cool work on the parts, I cant wait to see this yoke complete

so what were those CVD's? I'm guessing some associated ones?

how hard were the axles? just case hardened or tough through the entire cut?

nice work, I really want a mill.

BTW, a pair of TC5 cvd's would work great in the rear, but would need a 10mmx6mm set of bearings, and lengthened the same way you did these--if you wanted a threaded/pinned style rear axle rather than the standard yoke hub mount.