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Charlie don't surf wrote:Thumbs Thumbs Thumbs- You post whoring to catch up with Halgar?

They are running Mod Truck, and SS ( 13.5 ) Truck. The track has tons of bite as far as I could tell, and I am running a 6.5 in Mod with SMC 4500 Sport Max Lipo's, now the deal is with mod all the add'l "c" rating like 40c, just adds more heat and then I have to run less gear so the 28c sportmax's actually run better overall in the 10min main

Godda-- Mr. Ed! I never even noticed my post count until he brought it up(Hey look! I broke a thousand!). I run 20-30C. Everything over that is just for advertising... A 10 minute main is pretty cool though. Not good for me though. I usually start thinking about Unicorns and Lollipops after about 6.

I have a new shell coming for the RC10t- a different twist on the Lett scheme, seemed fitting for this truck

Nice job!

Very cool idea Reg! Oh wait....We should not boost your ego!


Jk'ing, nice job! Put some retro decals on it, Eh!

nice truck, with a nice body to boot!

Thanks, I have some updated pics and info on major changes to the truck to correct a few "flaws" in it's lap times ( which have been getting better )

I decided that it would be easier to just get a set-up reference with a FT T4.1 and then just transfer as much as I could to the 10t-

Here are a few major differences- Battery placement forward/back
I moved the battery box as far froward as I could, now I can put spacer foam front/back to adjust weight I don't know how easy it can be seen, but the shock angles and placements are very close Both trucks use the new AE rear FT hub ( 1.0 on the 10T, .5 on the T4.1 )

So far the lap times have been identical between the two trucks on the really smooth track I have been running on, they just changed the layout and the track is way more technical and the 10t actually changes direction in the L/R transitions way better- but the T4.1 is way easier to drive and keep in the line that I have been running-

hey charlie, i know this thread is like 2+ years old, but im finishing a similar build, using t2 parts...trans, shock tower, rpm arm mounts and bulkhead...check it out http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=29037#p299908

wanted to know where you have the rear wheelbase set at, cant really tell from the pictures

also, i noticed you went from the rpm arms to stock, later gt style plastic, was this for the stiffness or to use the t4 rear hubs and to play with wheelbase?

i drilled out b4.1 steering blocks but i have no clue to the castor, the a-arm hinge pin seems 90 degrees to the steering pin if you hold it in your hand, so im guessing there 30 degree blocks? drilled the arm hole super slow and paid close attention to follow the contour, but i had no clue what i started with, i saw a real cheap price and bought em for having in the parts pile

also how do you have the front kingpin shimmed, are they T knuckles? in the middle of the steering block, on top or below?

just trying to find a neutral starting point, i always had t4 on my mind as i did the widening to my gt before i made it into a "shortbus" but i have no clue as to how a vintage electric will respond

sorry to steal the thread, feel free to bombard mine...

Long rear wheelbase (3* mounts). The RPM arms flexed too much and caused too much caster changes and antisquat changes as the truck went through the corners.

B4 blocks are 20*, 25*, 30*.....or -5/0/+5 on the B4, on a 10t or 10 you need to use the 2nd equation to figure caster since the 10 is a 30* kickup instead of the b4 25* kickup.

I centered the caster block, and run t4 inline axles-

I can take fresh pics if you need, I still run it-

Nice truck Reg. I am working on one now! That is to say the parts are in a box

Charlie don't surf wrote:Long rear wheelbase (3* mounts). The RPM arms flexed too much and caused too much caster changes and antisquat changes as the truck went through the corners.

B4 blocks are 20*, 25*, 30*.....or -5/0/+5 on the B4, on a 10t or 10 you need to use the 2nd equation to figure caster since the 10 is a 30* kickup instead of the b4 25* kickup.

I centered the caster block, and run t4 inline axles-

I can take fresh pics if you need, I still run it-

cool, thanks for sharing some info.... i knew the flex would be an issue, i always ran stock rear arms on my gt for that exact reason and never broke one off (the inner bracing though, would sometimes magically vanish on harsh tracks)

the gt i built had t4 25deg blocks, with stock inline axles, got that tip from a forum specific to 10T's and gt's, clued me to the degree change along with t4 rear stubs with stock carriers to push the width out a taste. the front carriers on my new build are numberless...im guessing there 25's because the angle of the kingpin seems inline with the kickup... ill just get sets of each to play with... i also have a set of front inboard bearing kingpins, dont wanna use em due to the trailing setup but it would be sweet to just use rear rims front to back but i have no clue if the offsets in the wheels are different.... the t4 inlines put the ball cup further back than stock, did it mess with ackermann?

due to my mismatch of rear parts i cant run the arm mounts further back, my wheelbase is a tiny bit under 11 inches which seems short, do you think making a longer nose plate to compensate will give a similar result in stability, but keeping some decent steering? i think the t2 was stuck with short wheelbase in the rear due to the bolt on motorplate lip but the pan was way longer in the front, i figure doing this will equal out the width change, and give me room to move the servo further foward, and possibly mount it sideways in the "tunnel" of the chassis for more battery room...



if the buggy guys are trying to shoot for b4 numbers, i wanna be one of the few doing it to a truck!...

Offsets are the same from the T thru the T4.1, so you can use any wheels (hex being a problem without the trailing). Ackerman stayed true with the t4 steering spindles and caster blocks, but I did shave the extra meat off the steering arm then add spacers to center it as an original 10t would have. Definitely need 2 washers on the ARM for bump steer adjustment. Also, I always run my truck lwb in the front too. I'll post some current pics in a bit- not a ton of changes, but some.

the long wheelbase in the front is a given, im talking about the rear arm mounts on the chassis... the original 10T blocks could move forward and back right?

im running rpm axle kingpins for who knows what but they look associated, identical shape to stock, there inline but had a hex pattern for the axle, i drilled them out to run the standard aluminum axle, there beefy, no need to run washers under the stud and they took up a bit more space in the b4 carriers, i think i have them about right with stock...

just swapped the rear arms for stock, my wheelbase is now exactly 11 inches with the gt carriers all the way back, my cvd bones point straight, but at full droop (no limiters, t2 tower, and those tiny mounts that bolt to the arms), the bones are a bit too far out for my liking, still in the outdrive enough, worried about long term wear and blowing up outdrives running a 13.5, maybe two shims in the rear shocks wont kill traction once i get a base tune going.... thankfully t4,sc10,b4 outdrives work so ill just see what happens

good heads up on the wheels, i have boxes and boxes of premounts ive had for years fearing id have to chuck!! my gt is a "shortbus" now but it looks like nitro sc aint gonna catch on... still fun to rip it around in a parking lot

the inboard axle bearing thing, well, i was thinking no hex, run just a pin, and forever only need rear wheels, (until wheels are all made for hex's, its like time travel, my nitro hawk used 12mm hexes and now were going back) i have sc10 and buggy axles for later down the line but the trailing setup is bugging me... wont know till i try it but i wanna get a more traditional setup working first

bring on the update pics!!!! we can be the only two woin 10t's! (thanks to your build)... could stadium truck make a come back??

I'm running into a serious battery issue with the old trays on the RC10T's. what Lipo you plan on using? Turnigy's won't even fit in the tray, others barely fit without removing the steering servo. Only luck I've had is running a shorty pack with lots of spacers with the worlds battery mount.

What battery setup do you use?

atarit3 wrote: What battery setup do you use?

Charlie don't surf wrote: and I am running a 6.5 in Mod with SMC 4500 Sport Max Lipo's, now the deal is with mod all the add'l "c" rating like 40c, just adds more heat and then I have to run less gear so the 28c sportmax's actually run better overall in the 10min main