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The white draught excluder tape is useless at keeping the water out. I believe it's "open cell" foam. The water goes right through like a sponge. Anyone know what I could use that's thin and will seal out the water better? Thanks.

I use thin double sided tape. I completely seal my undertray from front to rear and every where in between that might allow dust into the drive train - even the top belt cover too.
This works well.

Thanks Jason, will try that. Any particular product you like?

Truly, you are the king of vintage runners.

Did you see my new shell by RCS?

Looking very smart Luke

The attention to detail is amazing

Where do you get your screws from?

John

john73 wrote:Looking very smart Luke

The attention to detail is amazing

Where do you get your screws from?

John

Yeah, I just spotted those! Are they self tappers? I wouldn't mind getting some! Just picked up a Cougar to go with my ProCat and it needs a bit more love to get it back into running condition - those screws would go well on it!

Thanks John! I've replaced nearly all of them with M3 socket head screws.

This website has metric and imperial screws...

www.modelfixings.co.uk

eBay is also good for those hard to find screws like the front gearbox bolts (M3 x 40 countersunk)

So you've replaced all the self-tappers with machine screws? They're holding on ok in the plastic? Do you think they work better than, say a cap head wood screw?

Hi Eric, they are definitely strong enough. I had to use machine screws for the rear gearbox anyway because I've got an alloy inner transmission housing and alloy z-bracket. The front gearbox is clamped with four M3 x 40 countersunk bolts instead of the 8 self tapping screws. Just to be sure I've also used screws that are a little longer e.g. the screws that attatch the upper wishbones to the front uprights. I'm using high tensile screws for the lower rear wishbone brackets and wing mounts... these don't bend easily like the old ones. I'm still having problems with the allthread bending. Do you know where I can get HIGH TENSILE M3 threaded bar? It needs to be cut in 70mm lengths.

Luke your 'Fat Cat' bodyshell looks DAMN WHITE HOT! Seriously one of the better paint schemes ive ever seen on a Schuey. Its a credit to you.

I also go with the thread right way through the rear gearbox housing to hold the suspension hangers in place. I also prefer the Bosscat items too as the molding has the triangular brace going upward and prevents the hangers twisting on the through bolts.

There are a handful of 'must do's' if you want to get a procat to its best (or even better) and Luke you've outlined them in your build very well.

Thanks for sharing this stunning car with us all.

Thanks Jason! That means a lot coming from one of the top vintage Schumacher guys!

Credit for the bodyshell has to go to Jon at www.rcsgraphicworx.co.uk

I still prefer the original Procat and XLS shells but I need the width of the Parma "fat cat" shell to go around the stick pack. The car will definitely handle better if I can mount the battery lengthways between the decks... this hobby is too addictive... must stop myself from starting more projects... at least for a while!

Hi Luke,

In regards to the bottom rear rod bending, you will be better off getting a solid rod and only treading the ends to gain some strength. A fully treaded rod will always be weaker given similar material at that length.

Thanks Chris... now all I need to find out is where I can get a high tensile steel rod 3 x 70mm with 5mm threaded at either end. Anyone?

I sealed the undertray and belt cover with single sided black foam tape, which is better than the white draft excluder. A belt hole punch is ideal for putting little holes in the tape for the screws to go through. I also cut out a u-shaped plastic washer so I could clamp the front gearbox tightly without worrying about the plastic belt cover splitting.

RW Racing made some stainless threaded bolts for me at a reasonable cost. I emailed some engineering companies and they wanted silly money e.g. £18 per bolt if I ordered 10 wtf! Neil at RW did a great job (thanks for the idea Chris)

Fibrelyte made some CSC strips that I designed. These clamp the undertray, again spreading the force so the plastic doesn't split. I'm always impressed with their flexibility and service. This part would be excellent for any vintage CAT runner. Contact Stephen at Fibrelyte if you want a set.

Looking good Luke! glad you found some solutions to your problem....may I suggest a few things?

On your csc strips at the front I would put a decent chamfer on the leading edge as there is a slight gap between the bumper and the strip. It would do 2 things, less likely to get hooked on things and also we all know how prone carbon and fibreglass is to delamination

The pivot pins for the crashback system seem rather long....is that standard? I don't have my cars in front of me but am sure they do not protrude out that much. You may want to consider trimming some of that back for the same reason as above (besides the delamination of course)

These are just my observations of course and its whatever mod that works for you.

Thanks Chris.... done!

I also sealed it with superglue and put in a shorter pin. The pin had to go upside down. It's held tightly by the upright so I don't think it will work it's way out.