RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

mikea96 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 18, 2021 7:52 pm Yours is the v2 slipper and the other is the first version b4 slipper.

I didn't know that there was multiple versions of that one. I bought all the parts together from someone on ebay. They said they came from an SCT.

BohemianBabyDev wrote: ↑Thu Nov 18, 2021 7:59 pm Yeahhhhp saw that when i went back to review the instructions.

Thank you for your input!
This has all been a great help.
I got some MIP dogbones in the mail today and polished them and added those as well.
Still waiting on a front arm to get back to it to test drive but it's super smooth and quiet.

Will probably try the same on my next project RC10GT Electric conversion.
I know I have to save or shim the top shaft a bit depending on which one I use.
20211118_185644.jpg20211118_185631.jpg

what model/length CVD bones are those?

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what model/length CVD bones are those?
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Those are actually vintage MIP CVDS. I remembered having them in the 90's and they were about $20 more than their original price on Ebay in mint condition but since I was already familiar with them I just bit the bullet. Also, got lucky today and checked the ole grandpa RC shop 30 minutes outa town and they actually had a B4 VTS left in stock and some 2.2" street tires at half price clearance so big score today. I installed the VTS and it's smooth as silk. Gonna go into my RC10GTE project that's in the mail.
Needless to say I've conquered the VTS issue. I know to put it into the GT I'll need to shave off a bit of the B4 top shaft at the back end.
Someone mentioned you need to put a spacer in somewhere? I can't figure out where that's supposed to go. Currently I'm arguing with myself over which ESC / Motor combo to put on the GTE since it's a mid motor configuration the Hobby wing Ezrun/Quickrun/Max10/XR thing has my brain twisting in knots. Which is the best one for the price? I don't think I'll be racing but it'd be nice to take it to the track on the off days to practice.

You shouldn't need to shave anything to fit a VTS slipper in a GT

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=39699&hilit=Brushless+rc10gt

RC10th wrote: ↑Sun Nov 21, 2021 12:58 am You shouldn't need to shave anything to fit a VTS slipper in a GT

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=39699&hilit=Brushless+rc10gt

Yeah realized I needed to add small spacers on each side to prevent side to side movement.

Is anyone using the carbon fiber pads from kidsagain, if so how what were the results ?

Is anyone using the carbon fiber pads from kidsagain, if so how what were the results ?

Rooster59 wrote: ↑Thu Dec 02, 2021 2:06 am Is anyone using the carbon fiber pads from kidsagain, if so how what were the results ?

I am about to order a set to try it out. I'll let you know.

I had Bezerk Rc turn down the Mip b4 shaft in 2015. It bolted straight to the re re worlds stealth

Rooster59 wrote: ↑Thu Dec 02, 2021 2:06 am Is anyone using the carbon fiber pads from kidsagain, if so how what were the results ?

I just saw that I never responded. It took a while to actually take things apart and hook it up.
The short answer is that it return slipper function to a vintage stealth. I would say eliminates the need for a b4 top shaft upgrade on a mild setup.

I put this in my older t2 runner that I had not upgraded to the AVID triad like all my other runners. I was running the stock rulon pad that was likely original to the truck. I had the older pad fully locked down just to get it to run. Any amount of slack in the spring was too much.

I installed the new pad in accordance to the directions and it worked. It was a very tight install and I had to center it, tighten the slipper nut all the way down for it to seat in then back off the slipper nut.

I could run it in a very loose if I wanted to. That was something I simply couldn't do before. The old slipper bad was binary on or off. I settled on tightened it down to the point where I could no longer do wheelie flips.

The new pad it pretty darn thick compared to the older pads and I think that helps with adjustment. I am certain that after so many years of being flattened that the stock slipper spring is no longer what it should be.

This was in a rc10t2 with stock size wheels running a 13t brushed motor that is geared way down. Crawler esc with forward/reverse and no break. I run mostly on grass and concrete. The slipper doesn't do much at all on the concrete, the tires break away before the slipper starts. On the grass the difference is noticeable as it reduces the height of wheelies.

It's not nearly as nice as my b4 topshaft/AVID triad slipper upgrade, but it doesn't need to be. It's really reduced the wear I was getting on my spur gears and that's enough for me. I'm not racing so I haven't noticed a performance difference.

I would say that in addition to selling the pad kidagain should try and source a slipper spring as well.