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Light and with replaceable drive pins.

Doug, if you need anything for this car ( since you sold most of your stuff ) LMK I have a few things just sitting around that might help

Thanks Reg. I am assembling a loose list of things that it doesn't appear as though I have here (like those early white servo mounts). I'll be posting here shortly of things I'm missing. Mostly small stuff, but look to be hard to find.



doug

The next stage of this build was the front end. Similar to the rear suspension build, each piece was hand fitted and sanded or filed for a perfect fit. All suspension pin holes were reamed and each pin was polished for smoothest action. The front end was fitted with stock Associated steel ball links like the rest of the car, and 4-40 rod and white ball cups for mock-up purposes. Front caster blocks are 15° variation, which fell right in the middle of my options at that time. Had I known what they did at age 15, I may have tried others at the time.

The wheel bearings were pressure cleaned and re-oiled, and the the axles were dressed up with NOS front jellybeans with Proline 2.0" front spikes, which didn't work very well back in the day, but many people used them. Steering is stock Associated white plastic, which was good enough for Cliff for many years, so it will be good enough for this build. I didn't start using ball bearing steering until later on, so that may be something that gets upgraded in the future, as I did back then.




The MIP got a new KP 81t spur gear in the much more widely used 48p. I don't think we used 32p very long back then, so this was definitely more accurate. I think I even used Team Losi 64p gears for a time back then, too. Battery cup also installed in the stock off-centered location, but that will eventually be moved to the center of the car, as I had done back then. Still can't believe that was never changed for all of those years of production.




Here's how she sits now, waiting for shocks. I don't have a set of rears near the condition of this project, so they will be built up with what I have for now. Stay tuned for the shock build in the next few days.

My short list of items that I'd like to find for this build that I don't currently have, includes:

- JG black Kydex front tongue bumper (angled, not folded)
- Kyosho gold shocks, front & rear

I know I could make the wing and nose tubes myself, but I'd like to avoid it if possible. It will probably come down to it, since I have no interest in paying $19 for a set of wing tubes.

If you have anything on the list and would like to sell, send me a PM. I have a bunch of stuff for trade, or will buy outright.

I have a set or 2 of nose braces you can have--you want NIP, or are you ok with mounted ones?

I may have some wing tubes as well, maybe

An update to my search list for this car. Thanks to Tom (pancar) who managed to send me a bunch of the pieces I had on my list. w00t!

Still ISO:

- JG black Kydex front tongue bumper (angled, not folded)
- Kyosho gold shocks, front & rear
- Thorp aluminum wing (hah, yeah right)
- Revtech, Race Prep or Trinity Monster Horsepower stock motor (mint to new-old stock, please), from the '85 to '88 era.
NOTE: I do have NOS Losi, Twister, CAM and other modified motors to trade, if wanted.
- Autographics Coca Cola decal sheet (all or partial)

Would also like to find at some point, the Thorp lower out-drive gears in 48p if anyone has any collecting dust somewhere. I have the top gears in my collection, just need the remainder of the set to build a 6-gear.


Not a ton of progress lately, but maybe a new photo tomorrow to show where I am since the new pieces have fallen into place.

i got ya covered on the thorp gears. i was just looking at them tonight. i was gonna clean them up and toss them in the bst. i'll send you a pic sometime tomorrow. it the whole spine plate, idler gears, idler pivot, outdrive gears, gear pivot...... with bearings. outdrives are clean with no wear from the dogbones.

scr8p wrote:i got ya covered on the thorp gears. i was just looking at them tonight. i was gonna clean them up and toss them in the bst. i'll send you a pic sometime tomorrow. it the whole spine plate, idler gears, idler pivot, outdrive gears, gear pivot...... with bearings. outdrives are clean with no wear from the dogbones.

Wow, awesome Jason. Sounds great. Let me know when you have a photo. I'm sure I'll pick them up from you.


d

I have been asked a couple times which Trinity stockers I'm searching for, and specifically it's this one:

have had that exact trinity stock motor for a while now, what type of brushes does it take? link to towerhobbies?

Awesome Doug.

Forgot to to mention to you, the gear diff is the dirt oval KILLER!! I will never go back to ball diffs...

AscotConversion wrote:Awesome Doug.

Forgot to to mention to you, the gear diff is the dirt oval KILLER!! I will never go back to ball diffs...

Hahah! Told you! No one believes me.

Awesome build so far. What's the difference in the motor pictured and the one with Black box and orange writing? I have the other one and they look the same, well except the box.

Great looking car! I am new to the forum and am in the process of restoring 3 cars ( 2 Cadillac RC10s, and a TQ10) that I accuired several years ago on Ebay that were in great condition with minor work to be done. The question I have for you is after reading your post on the yellowing plastic dilemna, you had mentioned hydrogen peroxide as a possible solution. Can you elaborate on that? or show me a link to the post that describes the process? I have read many posts on restoring the parts and have bought Simple Green, Greased Lightning and Purple Power. Thanks