RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

TViz wrote:Was going to bolt it to a gold pan but I'm looking for a matching blue chassis.

Good luck on the anodized blue chassis. From this forum I'm guessing they were closer to non-existant than to rare

I like it from my personal opinion the way it is now. I am also trying to find a blue annodized GT tub and haven't had a hit yet in over a year. Seems there have been a few that find the rc10 versions but you'll get a blue anodized one faster by finding a good anodizer. You'll also be spending around $100 to get a good anodizer to do such a small order from what I've found. That is another thing from keeping me from an anodized chassis. Keep us posted. Lookin good so far.
Todd

scr8p wrote:

longboardnj wrote:

- You will need to use the holes closest. This will require drilling holes in either the tubes or the chassis.

why?? i think its best to use stock rc10t long wheelbase mount... use short screw with nut to hold chassis together then use buggy steering... aka the t2 long wheelbase set up... no fans of this set up???

hell, i took a brand new t2 chassis and chopped a 1/2" inch off the front. in my opinion, a long wheelbase rc10 looks awful. if you want an rc10 that's as long as a truck, build a truck.

RC10's push pretty bad in race conditions as it is. Add in sticky 2.2 tires and a long wheelbase just magnifies the problems even more. But if you're just bashing and not racing then build it the way you want to.

Plus a truck length buggy just looks goofy, buggy's are supposed to be quick and nimble. To each their own I guess

as far as push goes cant you change the Front Black Carrier Castor for better steering??? i did this on my t4 and it worked great...To each their own ... i like the truck/buggy setup

Yes it helps, but the aluminum tub RC10's inherently push. Seems no matter what you do, it will not turn like a B4. The more mods you do to try to make it steer, the more loopy it gets off power. Learn to drive it with the push and it is an incredibly stable buggy.

X4 on using the shorter wb holes on the front. Simply bolt everything together and drill and tap the tubes for the new location. Countersink the holes in the chassis and use flathead screws to hold the tubes on while you are at it.