RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

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Hey as far as countersinks go, 4/40's are 82deg, 8/32's are 100 deg, and you will need a 5-9 flute countersink if you want to use it more than once

Thanks charlie.

So to drill the front for the 10T bulkhead, which countersink did you use? 4/40 82 degree? And what would I need the 8/32's for?

Any additional help/pictures/diagrams etc. would help. Thanks.

M_Vice, nice Starsky clip. Hilarious movie.

Love that part of the movie, LOL…

In some projects I have use the 82* to countersink all the screws and it works out ok, it is not easy to find 100* bits.
I need to find a chassis to do this. I like the look of it better than the tub with the long arms. I might have to make one.

This is the link on how I make some of my parts. I would probable do the same to modify the front of a chassis.

Cutting parts for my R/C cars.

TViz wrote:Thanks charlie.

So to drill the front for the 10T bulkhead, which countersink did you use? 4/40 82 degree? And what would I need the 8/32's for?

Any additional help/pictures/diagrams etc. would help. Thanks.

M_Vice, nice Starsky clip. Hilarious movie.

8/32 for the Phillips screws to attach the bulkhead to the chassis

its sad to see a nice chassis die... how bad is the stock front end??? id just make a rc10t into a buggy.. this buggy looks to have a stock front end and its doin good on the track [youtube]qPmuohuUBQQ[/youtube]

Question, let me know what you think.

If this cars wheelbase was 1/2" shorter would it be a bad thing. It would be to race on a small indoor track.
What would be any advantages or disadvantages?

The car will feel very free with a short wheelbase and should have better corner entry, but less exit speed be a little slower in the rythm sections or rollers and will jump with a higher altitude than a "standard" car. But that is based off of no suspension changes between the two--you should be able to soften the car up and increase the damping and /or run a two stage piston to get it sorted out And you will need to add lead to keep the front end down and keep weight transfer the same

Charlie don't surf wrote:The car will feel very free with a short wheelbase and should have better corner entry, but less exit speed be a little slower in the rythm sections or rollers and will jump with a higher altitude than a "standard" car. But that is based off of no suspension changes between the two--you should be able to soften the car up and increase the damping and /or run a two stage piston to get it sorted out And you will need to add lead to keep the front end down and keep weight transfer the same

Thanks Reg, I might cut it out of the smaller extra plate you sent me if I can’t find a decent AE chassis to built a runner. I thin I can set it up nicely but I am concern about adding front weight.