I used pan car wing mounts to locate the bottom of the front shocks and the shocks clear the nose tubes nicely. They will do for testing until I devise something better. I've been told that the car as it stands will have excessive body roll and that it will need sway bars. I did not plan for that. Anyway I'm pleased that the entire car has been out of the GT parts bin. Now... think about engines, think about...engines...
Here's the body roughed out in wood and putty. I will add flares over where the front shocks exit. Sanding and finishing will be the hardest part of this project, then a rubber mold, fiberglas, and paint. Additional parts will be a windscreen, roll bar, mirrors, and I may add a wing to partially hide the pipe and give color to the rear. I've chosen a rear exhaust engine, just haven't shelled out for it yet. The shed out back is freezing right now and my fingers have been too numb to make much progress, figure to complete this by the end of the year.
A rear exhaust engine is going to put the header out the left side. A side exhaust could send it in the right direction, but most likely with a home made or modded header
Charlie don't surf wrote:A rear exhaust engine is going to put the header out the left side. A side exhaust could send it in the right direction, but most likely with a home made or modded header
Correct. Both exhaust types provide advantages depending on where I want the pipe to live. I'll post a shot showing the pipe in a good position to take advantage of the rear exhaust setup.
Posted. This is exactly the same as the stock GT tuned pipe setup except that it's flipped upside down. Pipe will be higher than I'd like but a wing might help cover it.
.18 engine installed with the exhaust exiting the back as it ought to. I bent a wire mount for it and relocated the fitting for the pressure line. 18 tooth clutch bell for top end. Not completely happy that the pipe is located so high but I know that a long distance between the pipe and header may cause tuning problems (later i may try a header extension to get the pipe located where I showed it earlier in this thread on the rear battery tray.) I also replaced the stock 30 degree front caster blocks with 20 degree (6214) shouldn't need that much caster on pavement. Now i must go thru it and check all the e-clips, use thread lock and glue the tires. I'll break in the engine when I get a sunny day. Is any of this really gonna work?
Of course it will...maybe not like you thought at first but if you can make it this far you can tinker it the rest of the way .
Showed the pix of the your project to the LHS owner and he said if you wanna build a new scratch chassis that he could help in that dept. He's had a couple guys transforming a tmaxx and a savage into weedeater trucks by scratchbuilding longer chassis for them with good success.
Todd
Peace and professionlism.....Kabunga signing off!!!
Showed the pix of the your project to the LHS owner and he said if you wanna build a new scratch chassis that he could help in that dept.
Todd
I appreciate the offer, but now I need to concentrate on getting the body done. I know a couple of sculptor/prop makers in L.A. that could do a bang up job if the price was right.... one arm and one leg.
The single damper on the nose reminds me of the Tamiya Hotshot. Pretty neat. Your Lotus project is coming along great! I love those vintage F1 cars. Not nearly as safe as F1 cars of today. You had to be fearless to drive those puppies. I especially love the Ferrari pic.
My son... ask for thyself another kingdom... for that which I leave is too small for thee.
THEYTOOKMYTHUMB wrote:Just curious. Any updates on this cool project? Ever find time to complete the body?
Yes, the whole car went to a friend who works at a special effects shop in LA. They built the robots in the Short Circuit movie and did the commercials with the Energizer Bunny, and the boss restores and races classic Mini Coopers. Last I saw the car was taken apart, calipers were applied to the various components and "improvements" were underway.