Re: Cutting parts for my R/C cars.
Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 9:55 am
thats actually a pretty cool sander, i have a craftsmen belt sander i use, but i am thinking to get one of these now too, nice
If the chassis is not delaminated it will work ok, you need to seal the edges after you cut the towers with some CA glue.THEYTOOKMYTHUMB wrote:Would an Associated graphite chassis hold up after being cut this way or would it fray? I have one that's kinda beat, but I could definitely get enough good area to make some oval shock towers. I would think it would, but want to see if anyone knows for sure before I destroy it.
A laminate trimmer might work; let us know how that works for you. I have experimented with different tools but I end up going back to the jewelry scroll saw. I lets me make very clean cuts and that help reduce the amount of sanding and finishing on the parts. I use the same tools for G-10 or CF and the main difference is CF takes more time and more blades.treehugger wrote:with out sounding like a dumb ass CA GLUE IS THAT JUST SUPER GLUE
ok so i will admit my ass is dumb that's why i sit on it
great work btw mr vice
i sorta fiddling with my laminate trimmer at the mo thinking about template's for shock towers i don,t know how well it will cut CF but g10 should be simple
regards Paul
Would this also work on cutting fiberglass?m_vice wrote:This is a quick video on how I cut some front towers for my Kyosho Turbo Ultima.
I design and draw everything on CAD and print on regular paper. Taped to material (2.5mm thick G-10 fiberglass sheet) with carpet tape and cut using a jewelry hand scroll saw with 0/2 blades (I use like 5, some broke some go dull).
After cutting I use a Dremel and drum sand all the edges and to finish I hand file to refine the part. Finally drill holes and counter sink where needed.
It probable took me +/- 3 hrs to make all 3 parts (front and rear towers and a chassis top plate). Some minutes got lost in thinking.![]()
Thank you for watching.
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X2treehugger wrote:yes same process
paul
I wonder how well clear nail polish would work? Whenever I use CA glue I tend to end up sticking everything together including my fingers.m_vice wrote:If the chassis is not delaminated it will work ok, you need to seal the edges after you cut the towers with some CA glue.THEYTOOKMYTHUMB wrote:Would an Associated graphite chassis hold up after being cut this way or would it fray? I have one that's kinda beat, but I could definitely get enough good area to make some oval shock towers. I would think it would, but want to see if anyone knows for sure before I destroy it.
Lowgear wrote:I wonder how well clear nail polish would work? Whenever I use CA glue I tend to end up sticking everything together including my fingers.m_vice wrote:If the chassis is not delaminated it will work ok, you need to seal the edges after you cut the towers with some CA glue.THEYTOOKMYTHUMB wrote:Would an Associated graphite chassis hold up after being cut this way or would it fray? I have one that's kinda beat, but I could definitely get enough good area to make some oval shock towers. I would think it would, but want to see if anyone knows for sure before I destroy it.
RE:treehugger wrote:yes same process
paul
That's how I did it too, when I made custom rear shock towers for the Marui Galaxy project. I put masking tape on the graphite with the shape of the template drawn on it. Once the basic shape was hack-sawed & Dremeled out, I used a variety of needle files to reach the final shape. Probably more time consuming, but gets the job done.jwscab wrote:i usually use a hacksaw for all rough cuts, then follow up with files. I'll use a drill at the point of acute angles, or within an enclosed cut. goes very quickly.
the other thing i tend to do is drill the holes first, rather than after the shape is cut. this way, the holes are all 'true' in location, since the outside shape is pretty much irrelevant, if the cuts aren't perfect, it won't affect alignments.