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PBR just knoticed the name change thank you for starting a dirt oval thred will be nice to see how many of us there is on here. A BIG ty for the help.

for the offroad track, I'm guessing the car is tight since you said the middle feels good "if you run high" and any time a car is tight going in or in the center it's going to have to do all it's turning in the last phase of the corner, i.e. loose off. you have to get creative where you mount your electronic gear, I would use a thick piece of lexan and build a shelf on the left side of the chassis and mount them there. make it long so you can move them forward and back, but you are not going to get the car good with all the weight on the back half. it looks like you can move the servo forward at least a quarter inch, do that and move the batter box forward as well. It all sounds like little things but trust me, it will help.

as far as the big red dirt track goes, and spining to the inside on throttle you need more cross in the car. Right now you're driving the outside tire when you go to gas so you have to get some weight on the LR tire, now this may make it understeer a bit going into the corner, but I would get the car tight first and then free it up a little bit. On that track try staggering your springs so you have a slightly heavier spring on the RF than on the LF and a slightly heavier spring on the LR than on the RR. with that setup you should be able to set you car on a flat surface and just pick up each tire from the top just a little bit and the RF and LR should feel heavier than the LF and RR respectively, this is adding cross weight and will tighten the car.

what springs and oil are on your car now? as well as what rear toe and front caster blocks are you running?

Thanks for the help, looks like I'll be converting it to a 10T and running bomber . I would like to use the DS nose plate since it has only 8 degrees of kickup, although that plate is pretty wide. I just need to look at different front arms once I get the rear done so I can match the width.

markt311 wrote:Thanks for the help, looks like I'll be converting it to a 10T and running bomber .

i feel sorry for you. personally, if that was the only class my local track was racing, i'd stay the hell home. i'd never build something that fugly, then have to watch it go around the track.

Man,,, that was low! but yeah, I admit,,, I'm glad the truck class at my track stayed a truck class. I think if I had to change the body from a truck I'd just say f''' it and get the ugliest Tmaxx body I could find,,, like the proline quad racer or a school bus and put it on there,,,, I'd probably put a bunch of lights on it an just really make it look as repulsive as possible....

Those look like alum susp mounts on the back of the black chassis. Do they come in 3Deg

no, those are the old GPM 0 degree mounts which aren't available anymore... I'm not sure if anyone made a 3 degree alloy rear mount.

i fully understand the "look" that is trying to be accomplished by putting bomber bodies on the trucks. but, it just fails miserably (imo).

scr8p wrote:i fully understand the "look" that is trying to be accomplished by putting bomber bodies on the trucks. but, it just fails miserably (imo).

I completly agree, but I want to give dirt oval another try 7 years after I stopped racing it. And I'm not going to spend hundreds on a new chassis. I intend on making it the ugliest truck out there, codename "Brown Bomber"

PBR I have not gottn to run the offroad track yet they race and practice one day a week and I dont get off in time to practice out there. The small track is where it feels good going in and in the center and wants to spin on exit and at full throttle. Not to offend you or anything but cant I just tighten the diff if 1 side is gripping better than the other? Or is it just the suspension? I am not sure what the degree and such is on the suspension and as far as the oil in the shocks go it is 45 in the rear and 30 out front. It's like markt311 I am just trying to get back into oval racing but I have been oput for 9 years and things have gotten alot more serious since then.

Bent wrote:PBR I have not gottn to run the offroad track yet they race and practice one day a week and I dont get off in time to practice out there. The small track is where it feels good going in and in the center and wants to spin on exit and at full throttle. Not to offend you or anything but cant I just tighten the diff if 1 side is gripping better than the other? Or is it just the suspension? I am not sure what the degree and such is on the suspension and as far as the oil in the shocks go it is 45 in the rear and 30 out front. It's like markt311 I am just trying to get back into oval racing but I have been oput for 9 years and things have gotten alot more serious since then.

you can play with the diff, but that wont really change how the tires are loaded, it's spinning out to the inside because the RR is driving harder than the LR, if you completely lock the diff the RR will still be driving harder than the LR. If you're getting LR wheel spin it's because the chassis isn't keeping that pushed down into the track, not because your diff is too loose. I usually run as loose a diff as I can get away with which makes the car turn in and roll the center much better.

to me it sounds like the car is getting over on the RF a little and never really coming back off of it. try going up to 45-50 on the RF oil (this will slow down the movement of the chassis and keep the back end from unloading), putting a stiffer spring in that corner if you have it or moving the collar down a little. this will want to make it push a little on entry, but should help with the exit/power on by increasing the cross weight (RF + LR weight divided by the total vehicle weight). Likewise you can also put a little bit more LR spring or move the collar down to get the same effect. make sure the car still has some droop in it though (when you pick up the back or front end the suspension comes down a bit before lifting the tires off the groud) because if you don't it will want to pick up the wheels in the corners. If you do get it to the point were it's a little tight and you want the car to rotate a little better go a little stiffer on the RR spring. Again, if you have the springs I would do that rather than preloading them with the collars, moving the collars is an adjustment for the spring, not a way to make a light spring a heavy spring.

PBR, where's the flopper bodies?

Okay, here's the car I've been working on, it's a B3 with speedy's towers, TC3 shocks, Mcallister Ransomville body and a novak 13.5 system.

PBR Allstar wrote:Okay, here's the car I've been working on, it's a B3 with speedy's towers, TC3 shocks, Mcallister Ransomville body and a novak 13.5 system.

thats not powered by a "reject pack" is it......lol

lowrydesign wrote:thats not powered by a "reject pack" is it......lol

C'mon now Greg,, You know I only use the finest in 2nd rate cheap chinese lipo packs!