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I am going to fabricate a switch fixing plate myself (The 90 degree piece that mounts the servo switch to underneath the RC unit plate). It is part #116 and is included in SC-73. If anyone has pics of the original, would you be so kind to post them for me? The only pics I have found is the one in the manual, but I would like to see an actual one for reference.

KyoshoScorpionKid wrote:OHHHHHHHHHH I'm danc'n I'm Danc'n THEY WORK! THEY FIT FINALLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WHHHOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOOOO!

Tomahawk builds here I come!

RC

Do you have a list of the hardware you grabbed from Mr. Metric?
I have a couple of Scorpion / Beetles I'd like to rebuild

thanks

Actually the screws I was talking about the 2.3 x 12 are for the Tomahawk I believe if you would like screws you can get them from either rcscrewz.com or the site that I use hexscrews.com

Rcscrewz.com sell kits for all the cars and they are a nice stainless, I just order one for the scorpion and one for the optima and am going to review them.

RC

stulec52 wrote:

KyoshoScorpionKid wrote:OHHHHHHHHHH I'm danc'n I'm Danc'n THEY WORK! THEY FIT FINALLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WHHHOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOOOO!

Tomahawk builds here I come!

RC

Do you have a list of the hardware you grabbed from Mr. Metric?
I have a couple of Scorpion / Beetles I'd like to rebuild

thanks

Hey guys. Haven't updated lately as I haven't really done much this last week. I really am fond of Pargu's shock collars found Here But I think they are a little pricey :/ Would anyone know of any similar to these? Perhaps cheaper ones that are plain aluminum with no anodizing. If I refinish my original stock dampers, there is no way I want to put those surface ruining collars back on them, LoL. Maybe that is why they are so expensive. I am also in search of one red vintage spring cup for the 10mm shocks (or an alternative to that as well) if any one has a spare. I would actually like these collars in black so it will match the color scheme I am planning.



I cut out my lexan body and driver doll, so I am planning on some painting soon. I just hope I can take my time and make it look good. I will be completely new to painting an RC body.

Pargu's prices aren't really jacked up because of the anodizing. Some of his stuff is just plain expensive. I bought a set of 4 wheels from him. I preferred them to be natural polished finish, but asked what he'd charge to anodize them (he can do many colors if requested); he only wanted $8 more to anodize 4 wheels.

Yeah pargu's prices are damn high, I guess the salaries of Korean people are high too. 76 dollars for a set of lazer ZX arm mounts is plain crazy. I bet I can make alloy ones and sell them about 50 bucks.

Yeah, they're nice, but not $40+ nice. I think he would move a lot more of his inventory if he lowered those prices a bit. I just like them for the simple fact that they clamp on instead of a set screw grinding into the finish and aluminum! I think another reason his prices are high because there is no competition....I haven't seen anything similar to these

I am still waiting to hear back about the Tomahawk rims. My build is screaming for them and the money is burning a hole in my pocket, LoL.

I'm tired of waiting, I will try and paint them myself.

TM Ru22311 wrote:Yeah, they're nice, but not $40+ nice. I think he would move a lot more of his inventory if he lowered those prices a bit. I just like them for the simple fact that they clamp on instead of a set screw grinding into the finish and aluminum! I think another reason his prices are high because there is no competition....I haven't seen anything similar to these

I am still waiting to hear back about the Tomahawk rims. My build is screaming for them and the money is burning a hole in my pocket, LoL.

KyoshoScorpionKid wrote:I'm tired of waiting, I will try and paint them myself.

TM Ru22311 wrote:Yeah, they're nice, but not $40+ nice. I think he would move a lot more of his inventory if he lowered those prices a bit. I just like them for the simple fact that they clamp on instead of a set screw grinding into the finish and aluminum! I think another reason his prices are high because there is no competition....I haven't seen anything similar to these

I am still waiting to hear back about the Tomahawk rims. My build is screaming for them and the money is burning a hole in my pocket, LoL.

What are you going to paint KSK? Since anodizing is not an option for me, I was looking into powder paint. Has anyone tried that on aluminum parts? I think it would be good for a shelf queen. I meant to ask you if you have received your kits from RCScrewz yet? You mentioned doing a review. I don't think you will be happy with them. I never heard back from them about the 2 missing flatheads. I guess he is just going to forget me The hardware is quality, but it would be nice if they included an inventory list so you know what you're getting. I had to measure everything and there seemed to be a bunch of extra useless hardware included. I don't know what it would be used for on my Tomahawk. They send you enough to do 2 cars. Seems like it would be better to just give you exactly what you need and throw in a few extra's of each....then lower the price, LoL

I was told to mask the center of the wheel and then use krylon barbeque black semi-gloss paint for the center. I think I might have an easier idea but we'll see. My question to Pargu WTF are you in business if you never talk to your clients.

RC

KyoshoScorpionKid wrote:I was told to mask the center of the wheel and then use krylon barbeque black semi-gloss paint for the center. I think I might have an easier idea but we'll see. My question to Pargu WTF are you in business if you never talk to your clients.

RC

I know it is extremely hard to get a reply from him. I have NEVER received a reply through pargustore.com, but he did answer me through eBay (pmg828). I am in eastern time zone and S. Korea is about 13 hrs. ahead (if that helps any). I FINALLY got him to send me an invoice for some rims yesterday.

I have done business with him a few times and always got my stuff, but you have to be patient, 6-8 weeks for parts to arrive. And I'm not alone...

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=33278

Thank you ScootMike for sending me a pair of 2.3mm screws for the uprights, VERY much appreciated I am so grateful for all the help I have been given here by all of you. I got a good idea for the mufflers. My wife smokes one of those electronic cigarettes and I was looking at the filters they use.



The neat thing is they have a rubber stopper on the end that will work great for a mounting screw.




They look like they are stainless, so as a second choice, I picked up some 3/8" aluminum tubing.


Thank you again Mike for sending me the dimensions. I have though about your idea using nylon tubing for a more original look, but to be honest, I think the metal pipes will give it a more realistic look. I plan on dying the white caps on the end black (along with some damper parts) and I think some hot glue will hold them in place nicely. If that doesn't work, I will try JB Weld. Then, after it hardens, I can drill & tap the holes for a mounting screw. I will try to get some pics of the switch plate holder I made. It turned out alright, but I wish the aluminum was a bit thicker. Shouldn't be an issue for a display model, but something I will probably change later (an original would be nice).

Thank you ScootMike for sending me a pair of 2.3mm screws for the uprights, VERY much appreciated I am so grateful for all the help I have been given here by all of you. I got a good idea for the mufflers. My wife smokes one of those electronic cigarettes and I was looking at the filters they use.



The neat thing is they have a rubber stopper on the end that will work great for a mounting screw.




They look like they are stainless, so as a second choice, I picked up some 3/8" aluminum tubing.


Thank you again Mike for sending me the dimensions. I have though about your idea using nylon tubing for a more original look, but to be honest, I think the metal pipes will give it a more realistic look. I plan on dying the white caps on the end black (along with some damper parts) and I think some hot glue will hold them in place nicely. If that doesn't work, I will try JB Weld. Then, after it hardens, I can drill & tap the holes for a mounting screw. I will try to get some pics of the switch plate holder I made. It turned out alright, but I wish the aluminum was a bit thicker. Shouldn't be an issue for a display model, but something I will probably change later (an original would be nice).

Mufflers look great!
Will really look sharp with your Pargu wheels.
Glad to help with the screws, we all know how it is looking for these oddball parts.