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Re: Help Me Rebuild My Original RC10

Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 9:12 pm
by 85Edinger
I think if you get modern tires you should get the JConcepts jellybean-sized wheels and tires. The short-arm suspension works better with correctly sized wheels, and the car just looks better that way.
When my car was a short arm (2012-2013) I had J C Racing 2.2 inch wheels because there were no better options then. Now that I'm converting it back to stock with most of it's original parts I'm using re-re tires on the original wheels. If I get any other tires for it they'll be the JConcepts Rc10 Classic wheels and tires.
2.2 inch wheels belong on long arm cars.

Re: Help Me Rebuild My Original RC10

Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 10:43 pm
by GodSpeed
Ah crap, I already ordered the JC Racing 5-Spokes.

I do think they look cool and I understand tire choices/availability opens way up, but I wasn't aware of the JConcepts' offering.

Will the JConcepts Double-Dee's fit my original Jellybean rears, or is there some slight difference with their Hazard wheels that makes them an exclusive fittment combination?



Are there any other supporting opinions out there that 2.2 wheels don't work as well on the short arm original RC10? @ gomachv?

Re: Help Me Rebuild My Original RC10

Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 8:30 am
by 85Edinger
From what I've heard the small JConcepts tires aren't stiff enough for the Jellybean wheels, they must be used with the JConcepts wheels.
If you like the looks the JC Racing wheels will be fine. The suspension isn't really meant for them but you're just bashing.
My car worked fine with short arms and 2.2 wheels.
Not to mention, there are a lot of good all terrain tires in 2.2 size while with the JConcepts wheels you have one choice.
You'll be fine. Just remember to gear down.

Re: Help Me Rebuild My Original RC10

Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 8:58 am
by DMAT
http://prolineracing.com/1-10-truck-tires-all-terrain

check out the end of that page and the 2nd page. They do have 2.2 badlands, they were just hiding them on the truck page.

I run a tire that is like the dirt hawg 2 on the 2nd page for my rustler when off road.

Re: Help Me Rebuild My Original RC10

Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 9:11 am
by GodSpeed
85Edinger wrote:From what I've heard the small JConcepts tires aren't stiff enough for the Jellybean wheels, they must be used with the JConcepts wheels.
If you like the looks the JC Racing wheels will be fine. The suspension isn't really meant for them but you're just bashing.
My car worked fine with short arms and 2.2 wheels.
Not to mention, there are a lot of good all terrain tires in 2.2 size while with the JConcepts wheels you have one choice.
You'll be fine. Just remember to gear down.
Thanks for all this.

You're right, just having fun.

Gear down is fewer teeth on the pinion? I understand why with the bigger wheels, but right now it rips out of the hole and I was almost thinking of easing up on the "punch" in the ESC. We'll see how it goes with the wheels.

I'm running 24 tooth right now but I have a 16 as well from my old Joel Johnson Trinity. That might be too big of a step down though.

Re: Help Me Rebuild My Original RC10

Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 1:01 pm
by 85Edinger
I have 2.2 Badlands on my Rustler. They're far too big for a buggy.
You might want to look at the Calibers, they're good all terrain tires.

Re: Help Me Rebuild My Original RC10

Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 8:28 pm
by GodSpeed
Thanks guys.

And are ribs still a good choice for the front, or is something with a little more tread/"grips" a better option?

Re: Help Me Rebuild My Original RC10

Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 9:16 pm
by 85Edinger
IMO for a 2wd buggy ribs are still the best multi-surface option for the front.

Re: Help Me Rebuild My Original RC10

Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 9:51 pm
by GodSpeed
Here's a visual of how hard this thing is on tires now....along with some yahoo driving. This is after 2 packs on asphalt and 1 on a gravel baseball diamond, none even down to the low voltage warning.

Ordering new tires tonight for the JC Racing wheels already on their way.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


I find this absolutely amazing and a little bit humorous considering this is after 3 runs with modern power and the tires were still in fair condition after ~5yrs of running back in the 80's on oldschool power.

Understeers like crazy. If it didn't have the power to work the rear around, it would be terrible to drive. At least this way if I stab it, it will come around nicely and quite predictably to boot.

Re: Help Me Rebuild My Original RC10

Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 1:06 am
by knucklebuster
You will be hard pressed to find long-lasting road tires to run asphalt with a buggy because, well, it's a buggy :D You may want to hunt for Pro Line Strikers (maybe Strykers, can't recall) or Road Hawgs. FYI both are fairly hard to find and require 2" rims. Custom Works makes a tire that looks similar to the Strikers. I doubt they will last very long on road as even the medium compound wears quickly running on a dirt oval.

Having said that, it is quite easy to find road tires for a truck. I have a set of Road Hawgs on my T3 that I run mostly on the street. I have run at least 10 packs through with a stupid fast brushless set up and the tires hardly show any wear. All that to say if you want to run an offroad vehicle on asphalt, just get a truck :lol:

Re: Help Me Rebuild My Original RC10

Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 8:16 am
by DMAT
he is correct with the tires. the 2 different on road sets I have are 2" rear and 2.1" front. works nice with my sees set.

I found this a little odd as one set is mismatched but the rear is proline road hawgs and the front is imex road dawgs. They dont look half bad together. The other set is matching but I cant think of the name.

Re: Help Me Rebuild My Original RC10

Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:31 pm
by ASC6000
GodSpeed wrote:
85Edinger wrote:Gear down is fewer teeth on the pinion? I understand why with the bigger wheels, ......edit gap........
I'm running 24 tooth right now but I have a 16 as well from my old Joel Johnson Trinity. That might be too big of a step down though.
Here is a new word for ya. Rollout. I'll let you look it up.

Re: Help Me Rebuild My Original RC10

Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 2:34 pm
by GodSpeed
ASC6000 wrote:Here is a new word for ya. Rollout. I'll let you look it up.
http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/shared/gear_ratios.pdf

Interesting. Thanks.

Re: Help Me Rebuild My Original RC10

Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 3:06 pm
by GodSpeed
GodSpeed wrote:
ASC6000 wrote:Here is a new word for ya. Rollout. I'll let you look it up.
http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/shared/gear_ratios.pdf

Interesting. Thanks.
I'm not certain how relevant all of this is for my purposes (not using foam tires, not driving [much] on road, not racing), but now you have me intrigued to know....and probably somehow spend more money while messing with it. haha

So the 6-gear has a transmission ratio of 1.87:1 is that right? And then mathematically this transmission should haul ass more so than the Stealth trans. (top end)?

If that's correct, with my 24T pinion I have a Final Drive ratio of 6.31

With the 16T pinion it would be 9.47

Wheel spin is my problem now, so I don't think I'm going to make it shorter. I don't know the diameter of the Caliber tires since I don't have them yet so I can't calculate Rollout.

I could measure it with my current bald tires to compare with later.

Re: Help Me Rebuild My Original RC10

Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 9:53 pm
by GodSpeed
So I measured the circumference of my worn out TA Champion tires and it's 246.0625mm

Divide that by my Final Drive Ratio of 6.31 and I get 38.996mm or ~39mm of Rollout.

I looked up the spec on brand new Champion tires and their circumference works out to 257.48mm...a "whopping" 11.42mm greater. That's significant wear.

BUT, what that translates to in Rollout is 40.81mm or an insignificant 1.8mm difference from the worn tires.

Looked up the spec on the 2.2" Calibers as well (88mm outside diameter) and it works out to 276.32mm circumference brand new, resulting in a Rollout of 43.79mm....4.8mm greater than my current worn out Champion tires.

4.8mm of further distance travelled per revolution of my pinion.

Now I need to look up/figure out the rpm of my motor based on its current timing spec and ESC settings so I can see what this would actually mean in real world driving. I'd like to know, but it's not likely I'm going to figure out that information.