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started my chassis slimming project tonight...keep in mind, I am a hack freehand. I cant draw a straight line using a ruler.

Measured twice and drew lines on my chassis, used 2 big C clamps and a good ol' stick of wood as a guide for my dremel.



so one broken cut off wheel later...



Reset the stick-o-wood and did the other side for this:



the I took what was left of the side pods and hollowed them out:



ground them smooth...looks like nerf bars



so, out comes the heat gun and 2 more sticks-o-wood, heat up the nerf bars and clamp 'em straight.



let them cool for an hour and pulled them out. tomorrow, I will glue them onto the sides of the chassis, trim up the overhang bits and take a completed chassis picture

Nice work Joey!, you putting a Centrino shell on it?

J Concepts RB6 Finnisher is the plan

glued and trimmed up...









now all I need is a donor B4 to finish it up, LOL...I have a feeling my son's car will be donated soon

Anybody else seen this video?

[youtube]r0zpqhhcmp4[/youtube]

Do you think doing something like this instead of the glue/jb weld to mate the pieces back together would have more strength?

Also, would it be possible to make the chassis cuts using a hot wire cutter or nichrome wire?

Thinking of buying a used chassis or seeing what I can find locally on craiglist just to see what I can frankenstein

longboardnj wrote:

most important is the new slipper!

hope they dont use new spurs .. id be pist if i cant use the b4 t4 sc10 spur gears i have..

Spur is the same! I ordered all the slipper parts to upgrade mine. I don't think the 12mm hex is necessary! OEM towers can be modded unless the geometry is different!

JK what kind of glue did you use? Curious to see how well it would hold up.

Is the RC10GT2 front clip the same as a B4 front clip? If so, you could make your own aluminum chassis with a RC10GT2 nose, and B4 rear suspension plate. pretty simple. Any length and width. Make it a small tub, anodize it gold and.....retro!!!

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1450_369/products_id/9110/n/Team-Associated-Front-Sub-Chassis-GT2

jwscab wrote:JK what kind of glue did you use?

Thick CA, hoping it will hold up myself. I did a little twist/pull test, felt good.

slotcarrod wrote:

longboardnj wrote:

most important is the new slipper!

hope they dont use new spurs .. id be pist if i cant use the b4 t4 sc10 spur gears i have..

Spur is the same! I ordered all the slipper parts to upgrade mine. I don't think the 12mm hex is necessary! OEM towers can be modded unless the geometry is different!

thanks.. as for the 12mm clamp hex i think they are great . in the rear if you use ft pins(everyone should) they are solid and fall out so the clamp on set up is nice so you can change wheels and not loose pins. i like them in front too. you can switch front wheels without removing brearings.. maybe you can run 4wd rims too??

bolted up some B4 bits and pieces...hex conversion, BB springs



Soon the Slim 4 will be alive

jwscab wrote:JK what kind of glue did you use? Curious to see how well it would hold up.

Is the RC10GT2 front clip the same as a B4 front clip? If so, you could make your own aluminum chassis with a RC10GT2 nose, and B4 rear suspension plate. pretty simple. Any length and width. Make it a small tub, anodize it gold and.....retro!!!

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1450_369/products_id/9110/n/Team-Associated-Front-Sub-Chassis-GT2

They are actually different, the GT2 being wider then the B4/T4 top plate. Sadly takes a different steering rack as well.

only update, wheel base is almost identical to that of my 22

For what it's worth.... When the craze of cutting a truck chassis down to make a +8 started, BK made one for someone and secured it using CA. The chassis broke. We all used JB Weld and I personally never had one that I made break. The stress isn't as bad where you glued this one, but I will not be surprised if it doesn't hold since this car will have considerably more twist than the standard chassis. By the time it lets go you should have a pretty good idea how this setup works.

I'm looking forward to hearing your feedback from the track on this one!

So is the next evolutionary step in RC chassis design going to be a way to dial in how much flex your chassis has....kind of like how it's possible to adjust the tweak in a pan car t-bar.

JHarris wrote:For what it's worth.... When the craze of cutting a truck chassis down to make a +8 started, BK made one for someone and secured it using CA. The chassis broke. We all used JB Weld and I personally never had one that I made break. The stress isn't as bad where you glued this one, but I will not be surprised if it doesn't hold since this car will have considerably more twist than the standard chassis. By the time it lets go you should have a pretty good idea how this setup works.

I'm looking forward to hearing your feedback from the track on this one!

Well, Jeff, you stressed me out enough I gave it the twist test...yep CA doesnt hold

I will get some JB weld tomorrow and re-attach the sides and blend them again to look smooth & factory...or at lease my version of factory