Page 10 of 18

Re: Anyone tried this? Yellowed parts white

Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 8:48 pm
by Twin Detonator
Has anyone tried this just using the peroxide and without putting the parts in sunlight or UV lamps?
Is it needed or is it just coincidence that the two are needed for this to work?

I'm thinking it should work without any sun or UV rays. The peroxide is working chemically and the sun should not be needed.
Lynn

Re: Anyone tried this? Yellowed parts white

Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 8:50 pm
by Twin Detonator
Toasted Coastie wrote:made a new discovery. Not only does Greased lightning take the anodizing off of aluminum, but it also whitens nylon very well. Without sun, without peroxide.
Are you soaking it in a 1:1 solution or are you diluting it?
How long are you soaking it for?
Lynn

Re: Anyone tried this? Yellowed parts white

Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 10:25 pm
by jwscab
the purpose of the UV is that it accelerates the decomposition of the peroxide. this allows the oxygen to combine with 'stains' to remove them.....

Re: Anyone tried this? Yellowed parts white

Posted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 9:07 pm
by drbelleville
Just to throw this out there, has this been tried on Traxxas Plastic, or Bolink Plastics?

Thanks

Re: Anyone tried this? Yellowed parts white

Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 2:28 pm
by Twin Detonator
Toasted Coastie wrote:made a new discovery. Not only does Greased lightning take the anodizing off of aluminum, but it also whitens nylon very well. Without sun, without peroxide.
I'm about done collecting all my parts to start my vintage buggy build so I'll be starting to strip everything down and start cleaning everything and whitening it up.
Are you using the Greased Lightning full stengthen or are you diluting it? How long are you soaking the parts for?

Thanks,
Lynn

Re: Anyone tried this? Yellowed parts white

Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 2:40 pm
by RedScampi
drbelleville wrote:Just to throw this out there, has this been tried on Traxxas Plastic, or Bolink Plastics?

Thanks
I did this several months ago on some TRX-1 and Bullet parts, although the weather was crappy and there wasn't any good sun. It did seem to whiten them considerably although not dramatically. I didn't experience any issues like occur with the RPM parts.

Re: Anyone tried this? Yellowed parts white

Posted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 9:42 am
by Synergy
Anyone tried this on Yokomo parts?

Re: Anyone tried this? Yellowed parts white

Posted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 10:17 am
by drbelleville
RedScampi wrote:
drbelleville wrote:Just to throw this out there, has this been tried on Traxxas Plastic, or Bolink Plastics?

Thanks
I did this several months ago on some TRX-1 and Bullet parts, although the weather was crappy and there wasn't any good sun. It did seem to whiten them considerably although not dramatically. I didn't experience any issues like occur with the RPM parts.
I just finished a bunch of TRX-1 parts, and they look great, they turned out alright. I cleaned them all really well first and left them out side for about 16 hours worth of sunlight. I will post more when the car is together. I did notice though that on my TCP buggy some plastic was just that - Plastic and not Nylon like on the older Traxxas Buggies. I have not touched the TCP yet, and most likely will not - its a runner.

Maurice

Re: Anyone tried this? Yellowed parts white

Posted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 6:48 pm
by Twin Detonator
I was in the store getting some Rit dye to dye some parts and I found a pack Rit whitener and brightener.
I'll give that a try to get my parts whiter.

Lynn

Re: Anyone tried this? Yellowed parts white

Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 9:18 pm
by RCveteran
This has worked great for me on some old RC-10 parts, you have to be careful as you can end up whiter than original which is fine if not looking for perfect original. Otherwise you need to stop at some point and will not be exact as original but still very close and a cool trick.

Also I have tried without sunlight and it does not work as well. I used a jar with lid sealed and you end up with bubbles inside, like some sort of reaction, mine were inside on a window sill with lots of sunlight and not outside.

Re: Anyone tried this? Yellowed parts white

Posted: Tue Dec 21, 2010 9:43 am
by DerbyDan
Synergy wrote:Anyone tried this on Yokomo parts?
Yes I tried it on the rear bulkhead & layshaft caps, the bulkhead cap was especially 'yellow' before the process (peroxide) and although they are now much brighter they are a long way from what i'd call bright 'white', & this was with them soaking for around 2 weeks, and being left in the sun whenever possible (this was in the summer :wink: )

Re: Anyone tried this? Yellowed parts white

Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 2:55 am
by 66intheSky
Twin Detonator wrote:I was in the store getting some Rit dye to dye some parts and I found a pack Rit whitener and brightener.
I'll give that a try to get my parts whiter.

Lynn
I saw that whitener on amazon and I was wondering if it was effective on white nylon ASC parts myself.

I think someone else asked this before but has anybody who's used Greased Lightning looked at the MSDS for it? If there's any bleach in it, the nylon will definately get brittle & its not that noticeable to the eye, more on a microscopic level....

Re: Anyone tried this? Yellowed parts white

Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 10:46 am
by THE H.P FREAK
HI!... I've tried the RIT whitener, it does nothing. Don't bother. Best system I have found is Hydrogen Peroxide and a 28 Watt true UV light.

Re: Anyone tried this? Yellowed parts white

Posted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 12:31 am
by treehugger
well i have had my white gt part in hydrogen peroxide for about 6 weeks, and saw no change in colour until the last week or so (a week of nice bright sunny days ) its become a habit to walk past and tap the glass to release the bubbles from the parts. since the sun has come come back the glass is like a freshly poured lemonade so for me the more uv the faster the reaction the whiter the parts .

Paul

Re: Anyone tried this? Yellowed parts white

Posted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 12:34 am
by THE H.P FREAK
HI!... Use a UV light with the H/P. It works much better IMO.