RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

jwscab wrote:Hey Scr8p, can you guys add a link to the original thread that started all of this to the first post? I have a heck of a time trying to find it all the time, and it's still got all the good info regarding all the options and evolution of the mods. I see a lot of questions that can be answered by referring to that original thread in this one.

done

thank you sir!

I need some help!! I have the b4 cvd's and b4 hubs trying to fit with the lein arms. Problem is that it seems like with any droop the axle comes out of the outdrives. Tryed using 10t hub and when up travel, the axle goes too far and bottoms out in the back of the outdrives. I saw where someone said inner spacer. What part #? I would love to drive the old man again. Please help

B4 cvds are too long, with klein arms and standard rear hubs, you should use the b44 rear cvds (a touch shorter).

mdwaeracer wrote:I need some help!! I have the b4 cvd's and b4 hubs trying to fit with the lein arms. Problem is that it seems like with any droop the axle comes out of the outdrives. Tryed using 10t hub and when up travel, the axle goes too far and bottoms out in the back of the outdrives. I saw where someone said inner spacer. What part #? I would love to drive the old man again. Please help

Are you missing any of these parts?

Ingredients for the rear end (taken from asso_man!s build)
- RPM or Dynotech "World" rear arms (long)
- stock wide chassis
- stock arm mounts
- RC10T hub carriers
- B4 hub bearings
- B4 inner hub spacers (do not forget these, otherwise the wheels will bind when bolted)
- B4 CVD's
- B4 outer axle spacers
- B4 rims

I figured out how to use factory arms, rc10 mip cvd bones,b4 axles, 10t hubs, b4 outside axle spacer. As for the wide chassis? It's a A stamp gold pan, so I don't think its wide chassis.

mdwaeracer wrote:I figured out how to use factory arms, rc10 mip cvd bones,b4 axles, 10t hubs, b4 outside axle spacer. As for the wide chassis? It's a A stamp gold pan, so I don't think its wide chassis.

That's an old recipe of me that worked quite good for an enduro race, but in the long-term, we have found that the RPM RC10GT rear hubs combined with B44 rear CVD's is the best solution. You can solve all of your problems by tweaking one thing at a time, but you'll never manage to get something really good as you will have to reduce the rear suspension travel to eliminate the binding/falling out CVD's. On top, you can also use the Custom Works 0.125 spacers combiend with low profile wheel nuts to clear the Dynotech arms from the rear rims. What shock are you using? A picture would tell a thousand words here...

I'm running Kyosho Velvets front and rear. Atlas shock towers front and rear. Factory arms front and rear. B4 axle,Rc1o mip dog bone,rc10t hub,stealth Trans.

Does anyone know if the diff halves from b4 will work with 2.25 trans. If so are they same width as the stock at the outdrives?

Dynotech has 2.25 diff halves
The B4 diff halve are larger in diameter

Morten

I love this thread. My local track is pretty small, I've been itching to build an old school RC10 to run in the buggy class. I honestly think I could hold my own against 90% of the guys out there with some 20 year old tech if built right. Thanks for the inspiration

Hi!

In my own modification i'm planning to use B44 CVD's, custom arms, but not so sure about hubs yet..

What is difference with B44 and RC10GT hubs? Why B44 hubs don't fit with Klein arms?
Dogbone drops from output? Dogbone is too long?

Since i'm planning to do arms by myself, hinge pin distance can be anything i want to..

the b4/b44 hubs are set out too far in relation to the hinge pin, compared too the gt hubs. the bones won't reach the trans outdrives with using the klein arm/b4 hub setup.

B4 and B44 uses same hubs?
When using B44 bones and B44 hubs, bones are too short then? What about B4 CVD and hubs?
I've undestand that B4 CVD is bit longer than B44?

B4 cvd's are only a few mm longer. Still not long enough to use the b4 hubs with the klein arms.

b4 and b44 use the same rear hubs and wheels(and arms, I think too). The difference in length of the bone is due to the fact that the B44 outdrives are wider than the B4.

If I were you, I'd pick a rear hub that works with your cvd's in hand, and design the arm to fill the gap with the wheels set to the maximum ROAR length, of 250mm. If you use B4 wheels, the arms will be longer than stock. If you use rc10/B2/B3 style wheels, then the arm will somewhere in between that and stock length.