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Thanks guys for the answers.
Just ordered some pinions gear from 21 to 28.
I will follow your advices and start from 21-22 going up...
Cheers

Well, just built most of my rere Worlds kit. I have an original Worlds kit and remember how the gearbox would spin free as a bird. I remember because at the time I was amazed how good the quality was compared to my , at the time, Tamiya kits.
Sad to say the rere is not a patch on it. Its gritty/notchy and the slipper plate rubs as well. I think the slipper is actually rubbing on the screw heads which hold the gearbox to the motor plate, not the motor plate itself.
So I have two questions.

Has anyone run in a gearbox to see if it frees up?

Do you think it would be ok for me to back off those gearbox-motor plate screws so the slipper doesnt rub? I have threadlocked them

Otherwise its gonna be a painful exercise for me to get parts sent from AE to good old OZ

Any opinions / answers appreciated.

Cheers

Besty

besty22 wrote:Well, just built most of my rere Worlds kit. I have an original Worlds kit and remember how the gearbox would spin free as a bird. I remember because at the time I was amazed how good the quality was compared to my , at the time, Tamiya kits.
Sad to say the rere is not a patch on it. Its gritty/notchy and the slipper plate rubs as well. I think the slipper is actually rubbing on the screw heads which hold the gearbox to the motor plate, not the motor plate itself.
So I have two questions.

Has anyone run in a gearbox to see if it frees up?

Do you think it would be ok for me to back off those gearbox-motor plate screws so the slipper doesnt rub? I have threadlocked them

Otherwise its gonna be a painful exercise for me to get parts sent from AE to good old OZ

Any opinions / answers appreciated.

Cheers

Besty

There is at least three parts that needs to be looked at:
The gear case.
Idler gear.
Top shaft.

If I understand it correct the:
Top shaft is wrongly machined. Replace with B4 top shaft. ASC9601
Idler needs to be the old type with fixed axle. ASC6570
Case halves needs to be ordered from AE or Amain. ASC6565

Here is a link to gomachv thread/video that digs into the issues:
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=36121

/Erik

Thanks Eric. I will just order the correct parts.
Cheers
Chris

well i finally broke down and ordered the rc10 worlds kit. got it at a mian for $179 shipped plus found a new pair of orginal rc10 worlds front wheels else where online. prob going to search for orginal worlds shocks next.

Hey everyone - I'm almost finished building my rere World's kit. The transmission is tight but I'm going to run it HARD and see what happens.

But my question for you all is - how in the heck are you supposed to get the battery holder on and off? If you screw in the screws (not all the way I'm guessing), you can squeeze the sides of the battery tray when there isn't a battery in there. But once you put a battery in, there's no way to get it out. I'm thinking of swapping them for the thumb screw holders.

RC104ever wrote:Hey everyone - I'm almost finished building my rere World's kit. The transmission is tight but I'm going to run it HARD and see what happens.

But my question for you all is - how in the heck are you supposed to get the battery holder on and off? If you screw in the screws (not all the way I'm guessing), you can squeeze the sides of the battery tray when there isn't a battery in there. But once you put a battery in, there's no way to get it out. I'm thinking of swapping them for the thumb screw holders.

Shouldn't need to squeeze the box, slot the slotted side over one screw and then slide it into the locked position then drop the non slotted hole over the other screw and run a body clip through the hole in the head of the screw to secure the battery strap.

Chris

Edit.. hmm may not be possible on the worlds car, never had one of those straps, oops.

I wish it was as easy as the older ones! Doesn't seem to make 'sense' on the World's car. There SHOULD be some kind of screw with a hole in it that you can put a body clip through it and that would make sense. But both sides have larger holes and its tight on both sides to literally the only way to get the holder off.

For Lipo's I reamed out the holes a bit larger and used both screws with body pins. I also ground down the part of the battery strap that slides under the rear bulkhead/battery slot. About half the width, but I use pretty thick Reedy 5500 packs.

flipwils11 wrote:

hugger19 wrote:so thats it the rc10 worlds run is over?

That's what I'm wondering.

Was there ever a final answer on this?

HI!... Well I've had my RC10 World's car for about 5 months now. Decided to finally put it together last night. All I can say is I'm very disappointed in the quality. 1st off almost every bag in the kit was missing something. Missing screws, washers, nuts. Not enough "o" rings for the shocks, 1 shock pivot dowel was missing. Went to put the Stealth trans together and no idler gear! Plus the slipper clutch rubs, and the countersink holes on the chassis are not deep enough. Who builts these kits? 5 year olds!!!!!!!

THE H.P FREAK wrote:Who builts these kits? 5 year olds!!!!!!!

The 5-year-olds build the RTR kits for Traxxas.

http://www.teamassociated.com/news/latest_products/1502-NEW_Limited_Edition_RC10_Worlds_Car_Race_Roller/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6002RR-Vintage-Replica-RC10-Worlds-Car-Race-Roller-/251745701266?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item3a9d368d92

so its more money then u can buy the unassembled kit for??? yes i know they discontinued it but their are many on ebay cheaper than that. wtf????

Just saw that race roller version. apparently for those that want a classic kit without having to do a nights worth of work building it