RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2023 5:15 pm Those are generic bullet terminals, from the auto parts store.

It would have originally came with this type. They are open barrel type terminals (require the correct type of crimper) and have silicone sheaths.

Screenshot_20231215_160806_Samsung Internet.jpg

The terminals themselves are cheap and easy to find. If you don't already have a open barrel type crimper (Molex type), it might be cost prohibitive.

I thought they were auto store generics too, but then I saw an NOS Rooster, had the same connectors.

The new Rx is working well, so is the new servo.


But I hooked up the blue and yellow wire backwards on the motor , when I plugged it in for the first time the motor was wide open. No harm, but now I need to redo the motor wires.

Have a RC plug kit coming, might wait and see if one of the other connectors in the kit fits better than a J connector with the blade cutoff, for the Rooster.

You could also reverse channel 2 on your radio. Some ESCs need that done. No big deal. If you reverse the channel and it runs correct, then you're good. Forward should be on command, and I think there should be pause before reverse can be commanded.

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2023 6:02 pm You could also reverse channel 2 on your radio. Some ESCs need that done. No big deal. If you reverse the channel and it runs correct, then you're good. Forward should be on command, and I think there should be pause before reverse can be commanded.

That's an excellent idea, will definitely look in to that before redoing anything, thanks for that option @Frankentruck !


In looking at my Rx choices, I'm starting to have second thoughts about the Airtronics Tx and Rx altogether.


The Airtronics blue Rx was made post-2002, this Spektrum SR3000 is from 2005 and requires no crystals.


I think the SR3000 Rx looks better.

I got that pile of Rx's for $21 shipped, not a huge loss, and I can resell them for that or better if patient. Just typing all that out convinced me to consolidate everything to the Futaba/Spektrum DSM Tx, wish I'd have come to this conclusion sooner.

Thanks for humoring me guys, and allowing me to think out loud here.

Even though I put the wires in backwards on the motor, like @Frankentruck mentioned this Rooster would have needed to be reversed to make it work right, so it goes in the correct direction currently with the wires backwards . Was surprised to see it goes as fast in reverse as it does forward.

The thing that always looked so bad about my RC cars in the past, was the bundles of extra servo wire, or battery pack wires, in bunches everywhere. I was determined to do custom length cables.

Cut the Airtronics servo wire in half, and added the pins for a J connector.


Built a servo extension for the Rooster, from the remaining half.


Wired everything up, and the Rooster switch in place.


Got tired of looking at those bullet connectors that came with the ESC, and added 3.5mm banana plugs, I know they should be 4mm, but they were too cramped.




The stock length antenna seems way too long for how short the new Spektrum Rx is.


Might cut the antenna length in half, and use the remainder for another car.

The last thing to do on the chassis is to set up the steering servo throw, it's way too long, and then configure the ESC with the Tx. Currently the Rooster goes faster in reverse, and even after wiring it correctly.

Sweet job on the super sano wiring
Really well done.
Are you hosting your pics ? Or posting them directly to the site and placing in line ? I’d love to be able to click on them and zoom in but it’s currently not possible with any of your pics.

MarkyDents wrote: ↑Sun Dec 17, 2023 7:32 pm Sweet job on the super sano wiring
Really well done.
Are you hosting your pics ? Or posting them directly to the site and placing in line ? I’d love to be able to click on them and zoom in but it’s currently not possible with any of your pics.

Thanks so much, very kind of you to say. I host pictures on imgur.com, I did notice this excellent website doesn't have the zoom feature for pics. Tried to direct link to the pics here, and the links still didn't zoom. Wish we could zoom here.


I'm playing with the display of all this for the shelf. Not certain on the body just yet.

Vintage pack, or no pack?






If pack, Sanyo bare pack, or red pack?

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sun Dec 17, 2023 8:52 pm
I'm playing with the display of all this for the shelf. Not certain on the body just yet.

Vintage pack, or no pack?

If pack, Sanyo bare pack, or red pack?

Depends, If your gear is getting stored, I'd vote batteries in the vehicle. If you're displaying your gear then batteries out with everything else. Which battery to put in... Sanyo's if your gear is getting stored, red pack if you're displaying your gear.

MarkyDents wrote: ↑Sun Dec 17, 2023 7:32 pm I’d love to be able to click on them and zoom in but it’s currently not possible with any of your pics.

You might be doing this already but, for me, on externally hosted images:

Desktop: Right click on image, open in new tab (or window). Takes you to host site. Then right click on image and open in new tab (or window) and picture's as big as it's going to get.
Mobile: Press and hold image, select open in new Tab. Navigate to new tab. Press and hold image, select Open in new tab. Navigate to new tab and picture's as big as it's going to get.

Cool thing about mobiles (or other touch screen) over a desktop is how far you can pinch and zoom... it's like wearing magnifying glasses.

Dangeruss wrote: ↑Sun Dec 17, 2023 10:09 pm

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sun Dec 17, 2023 8:52 pm
I'm playing with the display of all this for the shelf. Not certain on the body just yet.

Vintage pack, or no pack?

If pack, Sanyo bare pack, or red pack?

Depends, If your gear is getting stored, I'd vote batteries in the vehicle. If you're displaying your gear then batteries out with everything else. Which battery to put in... Sanyo's if your gear is getting stored, red pack if you're displaying your gear.

This will be out in the open, might get a display case at some point.

The red battery has the leads in the worst spot, I had to put a cut in the old battery holder to accommodate it:




I'll have to figure something out for this.


The PC users can press the CTRL + scroll wheel to zoom in and out, but it's not the same as being able to zoom with the GUI, or to different sections of the pic.

Thanks as always @Dangeruss!

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sun Dec 17, 2023 7:01 pm Might cut the antenna length in half, and use the remainder for another car.

The last thing to do on the chassis is to set up the steering servo throw, it's way too long, and then configure the ESC with the Tx. Currently the Rooster goes faster in reverse, and even after wiring it correctly.

Cutting the antenna tube in half is an ok thing to do. Antenna = receiver wire

If the motor runs faster in reverse, then it's either still a polarity issue, or a transmitter Ch2 Normal/Reversed correction.

On my transmitter, the Rooster ESC needs to have CH2 in Norm. Going from forward throttle to reverse has a pause before reverse throttle starts. Going from reverse to forward has no pause. The pause is a built in function in the ESC to do braking without having to do reverse.

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Mon Dec 18, 2023 10:12 am
Cutting the antenna tube in half is an ok thing to do. Antenna = receiver wire

If the motor runs faster in reverse, then it's either still a polarity issue, or a transmitter Ch2 Normal/Reversed correction.

On my transmitter, the Rooster ESC needs to have CH2 in Norm. Going from forward throttle to reverse has a pause before reverse throttle starts. Going from reverse to forward has no pause. The pause is a built in function in the ESC to do braking without having to do reverse.

Would never cut an antenna wire, but have had them break off in the past though. The Spektrum Rx wire is very short. I decided to leave the extra long tube, that's how it was stock; also reminds me of that scene in the movie The Jerk, with Steve Martin, when he has that fedora with the extra long peacock feather in it.


Thanks so much for relaying your Rooster experience, it tells me that I don't have it set up properly, there is no pause when going in to reverse, if I weren't being careful my Rooster would let me go full forward to full reverse, which can't be good for the gearing.

I redid the wiring polarity according to the Rooster manual, blue is -, yellow is +. I'll check the servo direction. Thanks @Frankentruck!

Going to display this without the pack installed.


The stock body is pretty scratched up, inside and out, just from being shuffled around in the box for all of these years.

Going to try the Novus plastic scratch removal kit on the stock body, I've used it for vintage turntable lid scratch-removal and it works great. I have a few more unpainted vintage bodies that need the scratches removed, before painting, hope that works.

I have a few wings, but none that originally came with this Viper body, lost to time. I have one from the RC10 Classic reissue (sealed in bag), and another from the new RC10 CC.





Was there a difference in the wing between Protech I, II, and the Viper?

Read through the 25 Years history thread again: https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=13059
- such an excellent post, it answered my question on the late Stealth CE Viper wing, it would've come with the #6182 high down force wing, which is different from the Protech I wing.

Got my Boki #6182 wing and mount kit today. Apparently the Protech II body also uses the #6182 wing.


Much different in every way than the Protech I wing on the right.




Will use the black wing buttons that came with my CE kit.


Looking at the Viper box art, to see how difficult it would be to replicate.