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That sounds like a fair price. Let me get back to you on that. I still haven't decided on doing a 12 mm hex conversion or not. rc4wd has been out of stock for a while now.
I just painted and installed my back window/rear of cab. I'm still considering painting graphics on the body and calling it good. I like the idea of every scratch not showing from "trail rubbing". I have a painted body on my Clodbuster and I cringe everytime it goes over. I'm also considering paying the extra to use real automotive paint for the durability.
Absolutely love what you've done so far with yours. Looks fantastic. One thing that's on my list for sure is different mirrors The ones that came with truck just don't look right imo. Thinking about trying the rubber ones so they can survive a tip-over.

The mirrors look better when you get rid of the chrome , I was thinking of finding some much longer screws and having a spring on the inside over the screw so it would move when it needed to but not brake , the rubber ones would solve the problem but its more cost on a budget car ...... Its a balance that needs to be weighed .

I just found a 3d printer file for the spacers on Yeggi
[urlhttps://www.yeggi.com/q/tamiya+bruiser/[/url]
You need your own printer though .

These arrived today , couldn't resist them when i saw them on ebay , under £5 delivered as well !


and this is of the wider front track , not a great photo sorry.

I took her out for a quick spin and the steering lock is greatly improved with the spacers .

New camera (thank you wife) i can finally take decent photo's again .

That front end width looks a lot better. I tore my truck down today to make some changes and to check the trans. Trans looked perfect inside...well oiled bearings and a light coating of red grease on the gears. I removed all but the main leafs in the rear springs and removed the middle leaf in the fronts. I went through the shocks thoroughly,and after seating the c-clips properly and v-grooving the pistons, I added some 20wt oil and reinstalled with the shock shaft spring in place all around. Still not a plush ride, but a ton better than what it was. I was thinking maybe it was the shock lengths that were holding back the articulation, but it's the leaf springs. Still, I was able to get it working a little.

I agree. Also, when I had the truck apart, I noticed the it has an adjustable motor plate. I'm so used to my other Tamiyas (clod,frog, blackfoot, hornet,etc) have fixed motor plates, that it never occurred to me that I could change the pinion gear size. Hmmmm, articulation and lower gearing? Maybe it does have a little crawling dna after all.

I just watched a video of some TF2's on a trail and was surprised to see how little they articulated and how capable they still were. I guess they don't have to twist like my King shocked Ascender here to get the job done

From a little youtube investigation I found that articulation can be improved by tapering the ends of the leaf springs where they make a loop for the shackle bolts . I've not tried it yet but probably will ,its supposed to allow the end of the spring to twist left and right a bit in the shackle .
I've been meaning to have a look and see what pinions I have to try and lower the ratio , was also thinking of trying a 50 turn motor .
The articulation you have on that ascender is insane !

I just had a look at the pinion and I think its .6 mod not 48 dp , its slightly larger pitch than 48 dp so I'm guessing .6 mod .

As far as tapering the ends of the springs, it does work, but there are other easier and cheaper methods to gain the same thing. First, take a close look at the spring mount and both ends of the shackle mount. The spacer/bushing in mine were just a hair short which allows the spring hanger or shackle to close a little when tightened down. By simply loosening these back up just a hair, the suspension is smoother and has more flex. As long as the nylock nuts are fresh and still gripping strong, thats all you have to do. Another mod I'm considering, is to replace the aluminum spring eye bushings with a rubber one.

What sort of rubber tubing would you use , do you think the silicone insulation off motor/battery wire might do ?