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It's been a while, and since moving to short course late models, the 6gear has moved to the indoor concrete oval. The track is kind of like Martinsville...Long straights with tight, flat corners. The bomber class is alive and well here, so I put on some BSR foams, and a Mcallister mod coupe body. I had to add some weight to the left rear, and she hooks up really well.

Now if I can only get the late model "brick" to hook up, I'll be set.

Looks good Russ! I can't believe the foams hook up on the concrete. For some reason I thought the floor was polished.

They used a non-skid paint, and the concrete has just enough abrasion to grip. I use Paragon traction compound on the soft rears, and hard foams up front. Last week, I actually had to wrap the outside 1/3 of the right front with electrical tape to take away bite.

Last night, I re-coated the rears before the 3rd heat, and ran a few warm up laps. When the buzzer went off, it stood up and wheelied from a standing start all the way down the front straight. For the first half of the run, it was pulling the front wheels coming off the corners.

Just went to your gallery and saw the revised editions of your cars...They look good...How does the sc10 handle ????

Good grief, that is serious traction!!! If you are still sorting out the setup, try softer rear springs to help overcome wheelies.

REMJ666 wrote:How does the sc10 handle ????

Kind of like a cinder block... Seriously, it's a different feeling than buggies or LTO cars...Very stable in the straights, but slow to turn in
and then runs the ragged edge of handling in the middle, due to heavy chassis roll. I put limiters in all the shocks, so they only have a small amount of travel, and set the car lower...made a big difference.

knucklebuster wrote:Good grief, that is serious traction!!! If you are still sorting out the setup, try softer rear springs to help overcome wheelies.

I guess the conditions were right at that particular time...It's funny, but rubber tires hardly work at all. I had it handling pretty good last night, but the biggest issue is front bite. I added about 2 ounces of weight to the left rear of the chassis to keep the tire planted in the corner. I've been saucing the rear tires every other run, and you can tell by the end of the second run that it's sliding through the corner more.

Just received a bunch of repro parts from Tower...That 6 gear is gonna be around for a very looooooong time!

Russ Winn wrote:Just received a bunch of repro parts from Tower...That 6 gear is gonna be around for a very looooooong time!

Everyone is buying parts like crazy Hopefully A&E sees how popular this classic really is and keeps the parts around for some time...

I hope so.
After comparing the repros to the originals, I've only noticed slight cosmetic differences....But who cares, as long as they work (and they do).
They do seem to take dye a little more slowly than the originals. I had to leave them in for quite a while to get the same tint.

Russ, are you leaving the parts in boiling dye? This will color parts more quickly than adding parts to boiling dye and removing from heat.

I brought the dye to a rolling boil, then let them sit on a low simmer. They turned out good, but it just took a little while longer.

Has anyone ever tried the " Get it hot to melt the dye, take it off the heat , add your parts and wait " method ??? Or just let it dissolve in cold water and see what happens...I would think it would work but you would have to soak them overnight...I understand that hot water opens the pores and it helps but that is some mighty powerful stuff and if you let it soak long enough it will still work...Even cold water opens pores...I have some orange RIT and maybe I will give it a try...