Discussion about possible aluminum transmission and parts

[300D50]

Left side is an exact mirror of the right side, easiest way to do it.

So it's just a matter of getting the motor plate to properly line up, that shouldn't be too hard to do. I'll try and get it to use standard spacers as well.

[SnoopMaxx]

Walt that looks awesome


I don't mind testing one of those gearboxes


Morten

[slow_jun]

Me too.!!!

[klavy69]

Oh, yeah, who is willing to trust their trans guts testing one of these?

Would be nice if there was someone that actually raced their rc10 weekly with a modernized build that would put it through some actual race conditions. Bashing doesn't really put the strain on these things that repetetive hard running does. I guess what I'm trying to say is they should go to some people that could give them a good endurance test.
Todd

p.s. Walt, looks fricken' awesome by the way

p.s.s. not saying that snoopmax or slow_jun couldn't give these a proper testing either

Todd

[Johnboy72]

I tend to agree with Klavy on this one. I could sit here all day and say I'd put it thru the paces but to be honest, I say take it to the track!!! Walt, I have some people down there around you but they are mostly dirt oval guys. I know Jan and some of the Redneck RC guys out of Fulton can probably find someone locally to shake it down. Just hit me up on email or facebook. [email protected] and I can put ya in touch with them.

BTW, I thought you weren't going to be able to get much done till the fall? Progress is always good and the parts look good so far. Can't wait to see what all you come up with for these RC10s. Just watch it though, once this bug bites...it's adictive. I can hear all the Kyosho, Losi and other's calling for ya!!!

[300D50]

I had some things come together quicker than expected, so I decided to start in on these today.
Most of the CAD model was roughed out already, I just had to tweak it with the data from the CMM and get it sorted out in the CAM program, then the chips flew.

Yeah, I think for durability testing, a full-on race environment would surely find any kinks or weaknesses.

My main issue is that I barely know anyone here but Johnboy, so I'm not the best one to decide who gets to be an alpha tester or not.

I'm thinking I might just seed 3 or 4 to scr8p, Johnboy, or someone else who can get them in the right hands.

Another option in addition to/in place of the above is to allow a few brave souls to pre-order and get an engineering sample, and give the option to trade in for the price of shipping if any changes are made.

John, I'll hit you up via email tomorrow, and if I don't, please feel free to send a depleted uranium bunker buster round at my inbox so I remember to.

I'm open to any and all ideas of how to do this, I think you guys know best in that regard.

[SnoopMaxx]

My vote goes to Ruffy , JHarris and sons
They race regularly

I do race my RC10 a few times, but bashing is pretty tough on my Traxxas cars

I'd love to pre-order an engineering sample


Morten

[Johnboy72]

I think I can get one to one of my oval buddies. Put some lipo power to it and run the hell out it.

[scr8p]

i really don't see why a case would need to be thrash tested. if it were outdrives, a topshaft, slipper hubs, etc., i could understand it. but if the trans spins freely when assembled, motor plate mounts to the case the way it should, and the case mounts to the chassis correctly with no mods, what else do you really need to know?

[Johnboy72]

Maybe he melted down beer cans for the metal and wanted to insure the cases wood hold up? Lol. I'm thinking of putting together a modern runner and hit the offroad track.

[300D50]

Well, I guess I'm just overly cautious.
I'm going from the raised-lip locator to 8 dowel pins for ease of manufacturing, so I'll need some opinions on that, I've got to get the bearing bores sized properly for what people want, which seems to be a .0005 slip fit, make sure I didn't overlook anything obvious, that sorta stuff.

The big worry is that I hit the button, 30 of them come out by the end of the day, and they're all useless because I screwed something simple up that anyone seasoned in the hobby would have caught.

Here's the latest test block with 1/16" dowels holding everything in alignment instead of 1/8", the mating half is off to the side out of the photo.



I have to adjust the spot drill depth for the dowel pin holes since I forgot to change it when switching between 1/8" and 1/16"...

The dowels are included of course if this is the rout things end p going.

More to come.

[SnoopMaxx]

Looking at the enlarged photo, I can only think of one thing I did to my case

I trimmed a bit off the edge where the gears mesh

I'll draw it in on your photo later

Morten

[300D50]

That's one thing I forgot to ask, are there any things that SHOULD be changed from the OEM version?

Morten:
I was pondering putting a radius on those to give a bit more clearance, but didn't know if the sharp corners served a purpose such as retaining grease in the individual pockets during operation.

[Lowgear]

i really don't see why a case would need to be thrash tested. if it were outdrives, a topshaft, slipper hubs, etc., i could understand it. but if the trans spins freely when assembled, motor plate mounts to the case the way it should, and the case mounts to the chassis correctly with no mods, what else do you really need to know?

It is being designed differently from stock. With two aluminum plates sandwiched together and no gasket, dirt might get in or the grease might seep out. Thats the only thing I can think of.

[jwscab]

I would say make the design simpler and just use 2, maybe 3 dowels. More than that are just not necessary and make the assembly difficult, especially with accuracy tolerances over the production run. Another option would be to make the dowels hollow, and locate them so that they encircle the screws, so for 2 or 3 screw locations, oversize the hole on both halves, and use basically a tube. For reference, look at a big block chevy or ford SBC cylinder head and block. they use 2, one at each end.

Here is pic of a ford block from car craft.

Otherwise, looks AWESOME, I think as far as sealing goes, a thin smear of grease between the halves will do the job.