RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hey everyone, I noticed that everyone used a 10T nose and the T2/GT front shock tower. What I'm wondering, is there any benefit to having a 10T nose? Will the T2/GT shock tower fit on the stock nose and front body mounts? Besides being easier to source shocks for this tower, is it any 'better' than the stock shock tower?

you have to use the 10t nose plate to use the rpm worlds/dynotech arms.

Thanks but I thought those were the same as the RPM arms currently available at tower:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGAF4&P=7

I have these on my car currently.

RC104ever wrote:Thanks but I thought those were the same as the RPM arms currently available at tower:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGAF4&P=7

I have these on my car currently.

Those are upgrades for the standard wide-track arms (to replace the orginal short front arms), that I think first came with the rc10ce.

I just read through some old threads. It seems like these RPM front arms are the same length as the original wide track front arms and the dynatech arms. It's the rear which is different and they are closer to the 10t length ones.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

If that's the case, and I don't care about ROAR widths, could I use Dynatech arms all around, with stock body mounts, and the 10t front and rear shock struts?

I would also, I'm guessing, need to get longer / newer front shocks to make the whole thing work?

There are 2 sets of RPM arms. There are the standard ones which you saw listed which as the same length as the team car arms. Those are to be used with the stock nose as factory replacements. The others are the RPM world's arms which are wider and designed to be used with the 10T/GT nose. The rear is the same. There are direct replacements for the factory arms and there are wider RPM world's arms. The world's arms originally had a template to redrill and cut the rear of the chassis since the arms mounted further inboard than the stock arms. This assumed you were using the narrower stealth gearbox. The world's arms used entirely different mounts as well. Today a few of us run the world's arms on the stock rear mounts which sets the wheels out a bit farther. You then use the longer B44 driveshafts and B4 wheels. The Dynatech arms are the same length as the RPM world's arms and are still available which is why many people run them. After having tried pretty much every suspension combo that i could, I'd ditch the stock suspension geometry and go for a world's setup. It is much more forgiving.

Ahhhh, now I get it. Thanks for the clarification. Another question - is anyone running a rear sway bar on any of these setups? I didn't see any.

I am running a rear sway bar with the RPM world's arms. There is no provision for mounting a swaybar on these arms so I had to drill holes to accommodate ball ends. I made my own rear sway bar out of B4 swaybar parts and piano wire.

ocean wrote:Can you use RC10GT rear arms on these builds? I see lots of nice aluminum bling on the bay for the RC10GT and I want to build my RC10T with the bling/tough factor.

BTW I'm new to the RC10 world as I'm coming back into the R/C scene after a 23 year hiatus. My only other car I'd owned was a Tamiya Fox.

Any help on how I can make the aluminum RC10GT arms fit the rear would be helpful, and if I'm correct you can use the RC10GT aluminum rear hub carriers.

What kind of shafts would I need to use, etc...etc...anything? anyone???

Woe man, I can barely see the coloured text. Just to let you know that not all background colours are the same for everyone. I did the same thing on my first post too

Can you use nice aluminum GT arms, hubs, steering knucles, on these builds?????

it would be way too wide if you used truck arms, hubs are ok though.

Havent seen anyone post any completed buids on here recently so i thought i'd put mine up
Been completed for a few weeks now, and was built for my local clubs vintage series. Ever since i saw the 'old is new' cars on here when i joined the forum i have wanted to build one so after almost a year of getting parts here and there i got her built! The specs are like alot of the others on here so i wont bore you with the specifics.

Basically after a lot of reading on here and a lot of purchases i ended up with a box of bits like this:
And after a few weeks of building here and there in the evenings when i had time i ended up with this:
As the keen eyed of you will see the wing tubes are made of brass, this was only mocked up so i could get some finished shots and they have now been replaced with proper alu tube.
She is running on a 9t brushless that i had in my 10t which is ample for our indoor mixed surface track. The first vintage round was on friday and i was very impressed with the car, it handles loads better than my team car so obviously it was worth the effort!
It has also started the bug with a few other drivers and i think another 2 maybe 3 of these maybe in the making.

^ Looks great Caine!

I do not think this question has been asked in either of the old is new threads: Does anyone make shiny B44 bones that are still available? If not, did any combination of using B4 bones with another length axle along with an unmodified 10t hub work without binding issues? Shiny B4 bones are plentiful...

Hey Scr8p, can you guys add a link to the original thread that started all of this to the first post? I have a heck of a time trying to find it all the time, and it's still got all the good info regarding all the options and evolution of the mods. I see a lot of questions that can be answered by referring to that original thread in this one.