RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hi,

Not today, but yesterday, i was working on my Lola T310 Cockpit and motor bay...

Today---> printing

Tomorrow, first test







Jerome

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Wed Oct 30, 2024 9:59 pm It seems like the spring, washers, and brass spacer for the washers are the hardest to find. The 5-40 nut is available from Custom Works, otherwise it would be hard to find.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Wed Oct 30, 2024 11:18 pm Original, B/T3, and eliminator. Maybe A&L.

So turns out the original stealth top shaft threads had been partially stripped and worn down, so need to get a new top shaft. In this case with also needing a slipper assembly, would it be ideal to switch to a different style top shaft and slipper assembly? Perhaps the B4 or something else? I'm not aware of any other top shafts that can be used and fit in the stealth on the RC10.

You could use the avid top shaft and avid clutch, liveaxle just posted about going over to that system. https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=50088

Also since kits are now being parted on eBay, you could just grab the new parts off a rere if you want to keep it vintage style.

I'm now a painted body shell away from being a once a month parking lot spec class racer (ignoring that the ESC and rx aren't installed yet ). I feel like maybe I can get away with using an AM radio with this. Otherwise I'll stick a Traxxas 2.4 rx in there. This TT-02R kit made me appreciate how much better the design and construction are on the AE TC3 is. But this could still be a fun racer.
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GoMachV wrote: ↑Sat Nov 02, 2024 7:30 pm You could use the avid top shaft and avid clutch, liveaxle just posted about going over to that system. https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=50088

Also since kits are now being parted on eBay, you could just grab the new parts off a rere if you want to keep it vintage style.

Thanks. I've been keeping an eye on Liveaxle's thread and considered that avenue. I do have B4 slipper pads, a bunch of spur gears, nut and spring, so all I'd need are the hubs.

My son is going to be my co-driver. He says "Trim the body mounts, dad."
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I've had this HW Xerun 17.5 combo sitting nib for at least 2 years if not 3. Decided to put it in the Losi Strike today. I had a 10.5 my cousins gave me, so I used that instead of the motor that came with it. Should rip. I haven't bound the receiver or set it up. I got too hungry and headed in for a snack. I appreciate the benefits of brushless, but all the wires are a real buzz kill man. Give me brushed any day!

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Sun Nov 03, 2024 4:09 pm My son is going to be my co-driver. He says "Trim the body mounts, dad."

I go both ways on the subject. Sometimes I like them tight, sometimes I like them exaggerated.

This morning I put the front end on my RC150, and then made an early afternoon road trip.

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Sun Nov 03, 2024 4:09 pm My son is going to be my co-driver. He says "Trim the body mounts, dad."

I love that shade of blue!

@Frankentruck

You use Printed Solid? They are a local 3D print shop and filament manufacturer. They are a helpful bunch of folks.

My printer enclosure is from Printed Solid and I sometimes order parts and filament from them.

I learned why people say that a slipper saves your transmission on tracks with big jumps. At the track on Friday, my re-re Cougar lost drive. I checked the diff to no effect, then tightened the belt to no effect. I brought out my backup Cougar to continue running for the night. The backup has a Pro trans with slipper. It had no issues.

I tore down the failed transmission over the weekend and found that the diff rings had broken free from the outdrives. I was only running 17.5 blinky and the car wasn't popping wheelies or accelerating particularly hard, so I don't think motor torque caused the failure. I think it was landing the big jumps.

Anyone care to comment? Is it plausible that landing big jumps with slicks on clay could generate enough back-torque to break the rings free from the outdrives? On the Cougar, the rings are just CA glued to the plastic outdrives. I haven't had any trouble running with much more powerful motors on grass at home. Wheelies are common, but there are no big jumps to land.

Got the plates mocked up for my RC150, and printed just for testing purposes. I will change around the openings on the radio plate to match the actual equipment used. Hope these become the first pieces I get cut on my cheap CNC.

@1911Colt Are the rings keyed to the outdrives at all? If it's just CA, it seems plausible that they just sheared away at the glue-to-outdrive interface. I chipped a top gear on turf with a slipper once. Just the right combination of conflicting inputs and WHAMMY!

TRX-1-3 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 04, 2024 7:12 pm @1911Colt Are the rings keyed to the outdrives at all? If it's just CA, it seems plausible that they just sheared away at the glue-to-outdrive interface. I chipped a top gear on turf with a slipper once. Just the right combination of conflicting inputs and WHAMMY!

Thank you, TRX! The rings are not keyed on this model. They are just held in place by the CA.

I seem to recall that my original Top Cat came with sandpaper rings that were to be glued to the outdrives. The glue got a better bond between the paper and the plastic, then the gritty surface of the sandpaper held the ring in place. The re-re models don't come with the sandpaper rings, though. If it fails again, I will make some or switch to the alloy outdrives of the Pro Trans.