RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

aeiou wrote:Darn it, Jason, would you quit horsing around and post a detailed parts list with step-by-step instructions? I mean, come on dude…

dammit................. i did it again didn't i. i'm so ashamed.

RichieRich wrote:

Asso_man! wrote:I used RC10T rear hubs with unflanged bearings and B4 CVD's, though I'm pretty sure the use of RPM carriers together with B44 CVD's is a better option. The key point would also be to eliminate any caster when the rear is bottoming by changing the inner pivot point of the rear turnbuckles. I realised that with my stock "rear turnbuckle" set-up (though with inside and outside limiters on the shocks), the B4 CVD's get worn by hitting the outdrives when the rear is bottoming.

How is your caster changing? Or is your camber changing? So, the B4 CVDs are too long which is why they are hitting the outdrives? Great info!

Has anyone tried marrying an MIP B4 axle with an MIP rc10 bone as scr8p had mentioned?

Well, I was too tired yesterday evening and typed in a rush, on top don't forget that my mother language is French... it's of course the camber that changes when the car is bottoming.

I think my set-up works great (I used the car to win a 6 hours enduro race with LiPo batteries and Brushless motor) but it could work better with some fine tuning.
Here's a brief recipe:

Ingredients for the rear end:
- RPM or Dynotech "World" rear arms (long)
- stock wide chassis
- stock arm mounts
- RC10T hub carriers
- B4 hub bearings
- B4 inner hub spacers (do not forget these, otherwise the wheels will bind when bolted)
- B4 CVD's
- B4 outer axle spacers
- B4 rims

I use the "World" RPM front end with B2/3 rims

Here's teh link: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=1649&start=0

The car is not that easy to drive, it steers well but doesn't handle as easy as a modern car (no kiddin'!), especially when accelerating after cornering or running at middle speed while cornering, it flips rather easily so I need to drive it with "gold fingers". I may switch back to stock for next year's season and only use B2 CVD's and wheels to compare...

Hope this helps!

hey Asso_man

I'll be the first to say, that makes reading this thread a lot easier. maybe I'm a slow learner, but I think it was just that a lot of good info was spread over several pages. Thanks for the list

It would be good to see other people's lists.

Luckily, I just have a stealth tranny and a bare chassis to work with, so I got a bunch of more reading to before I get started. I did just get a rolling RC10 B4 RTR (no electronics though) that I might use for parts...i got it off ebay recently for just over $50. Then again I didn't have a B4 before, so I might throw a brushless system in it.

Many thanks

As David mentioned, moving the rear link pivot is key to maintaining constant rear camber. That’s the case in my setup, and it also prevents the telescoping effect - the dogbone stays in the same place in the out drive throughout the full range of rear arm travel.

As you can see in this photo, the rear link on my car is mounted substantially inward. I installed these using the shock tower mounting holes (this location required trimming the motor plate for clearance).



My son and I have run this car hard on a variety of surfaces from grass to sand to hard-packed Georgia clay and it performs very well. We haven’t experienced a single component failure with this current setup in many hours of running, and it’s currently powered by a very hot Mamba Max ESC/motor combo. It handles very well, corners flat and is very forgiving. Like Jason’s car, it tends to push on power a bit, but I think the solution is in the rear mounts like he mentioned. Or maybe it's just a greedy trigger finger in my case? Probably both... Anyway, with some real tuning, and patience, it should be a pretty competitive setup.

Here’s my formula:

Rear
• Dynotech Klein rear arms (RPM worlds arm replica)
• 3 degree Andy’s arm mounts
• RPM RC10GT hub carriers
• 3/16” X 1/2" Avid bearings
• B44 rear CVA kit
• B4 rear axle spacers
• 3/16” axle shims (I forget how many on each side)
• JConcepts Rulux B4 rear wheels

Front
• Dynotech Klein front arms (RPM worlds arm replica)
• RC10T front nose plate and bulkhead
• RC10T2 front shock tower
• B4 caster blocks (drilled to accept 1/8” hinge pins)
• B4 steering blocks
• B4 kingpins
• B4 front axles
• JConcepts Rulux B4 front wheels

The information in this post is based on my experiences. Your results may vary.

i love lists, i think i might print these off and take them into the bathroom for some quality time

Ok! Now this thread is making sense.

Asso_Man! - Aucuns soucis Je parle français mal.

In my mother language: No hay problema, hablo Frances muy malo.

Hablas francès muy bien hombre, yo tambièn hablo espanol

Asso_man! wrote:Hablas francès muy bien hombre, yo tambièn hablo espanol

hey, hey. you better stop talkin' about my sister like that!




just kidding. i have no friggin' idea what you just typed.

You speak French very well man, I also speak Spanish.

mierda no?

templeofspeed wrote:mierda no?

what?

sorry, i'm only fluent in the english and foul languages.

scr8p wrote:

Asso_man! wrote:Hablas francès muy bien hombre, yo tambièn hablo espanol

hey, hey. you better stop talkin' about my sister like that!




just kidding. i have no friggin' idea what you just typed.

great thread by the way

here's the parts list for my car........ front:

rpm worlds front bulkhead
rpm worlds front arms (dynotech klein arms....... same thing)
andy's pro graphite front tower
rc10 castor blocks
rc10 steering knuckles (6220..... for aluminum axles)
wide gt front axles
b4 jconcepts rulux rims

rear:

stock rear chassis
rpm 10t rear bulkhead
10t rear tower (modified)
1.5 associated arm mounts
rpm worlds arms (dynotech klein arms..... same thing)
losi rear hub carrriers (2038)
b44 rear cvd's
b4 wheel spacer
kranzels .200 wheel spacer (needed to clear outer shock mount on the arm)
b4 jconcepts rulux rims

And finally...you guys are using these ones correct?

2700 - klein rear replacement a-arm ........ $8.00 per arm
2701 - klein front replacement a-arm ........$8.00 per arm

Also, did you all change to a B4 slipper assembly? If you're making an RC10 "Evo" why not?

ya, those are the correct arms.

front: http://dynotech-racing.com/partDetail.php?RefNum=2701

rear: http://dynotech-racing.com/partDetail.php?RefNum=2700

i have a b2,b3,t3 slipper setup in mine. mainly because my car has the rpm 2.65 stealth trans with the topshaft for the slipper. if i had the 2.65 trans for the hydra, i could've used the b4 slipper assembly.

awsome looking ride!!! great work