RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

1911Colt wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2024 8:01 am

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2024 1:47 am
Is there a modern 1:12 car that you like these days?

Cue the obligatory Schumacher reference from me

There is the current 1/12 World Champion Schumacher Eclipse 5:

https://www.racing-cars.com/rc-models-2/cars/cars-2wd-4wd=2wd/eclipse-5-1-12th-circuit-kit-k203?returnurl=%2frc-models-2%2fcars%2fcars-2wd-4wd%3d2wd%2f

That's pro looking. Crazy how little there is to those, and how expensive they still are, $393.23 for a slider. Closest track for any RC type is over 40 minutes away from here, that's the thing that keeps me from getting in on the track on-road cars, but those look fun.



Going to put some time in on this chassis today, will get everything built back up around the 6-gear, and then do all the Halsey mods on the gearbox, last. Got the 4-40 set screws and tap, should have all of the parts to get this going; ESC is the only thing missing at this point.


All the parts are already cleaned, so this shouldn't take long.

I think I have a mid to late Edinger here.

No slots in the shock cups.


Frosted cover.


No writing on wrench.


The tires have nothing written on them.


This is the first sway bar car I've had.


All of the steering parts are cracked in some place. One set is original, the other looks like an early repro, the texture is rough.


Going to order the steering parts, and pack this up for the moment.


Ready to get started on the Jim Halsey guide.

I bought a 48dp 81T spur to go with this, but seem to have lost it, it's just gone now - but would they have used 48dp in 1985?

Thanks!

ONE DOLLAR

What the....
Do they think we're made of money???

Well, I'm not paying it

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2024 6:55 pm I bought a 48dp 81T spur to go with this, but seem to have lost it, it's just gone now - but would they have used 48dp in 1985?

Thanks!

I believe early 6-gears came with 32dp spurs.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2024 6:57 pm ONE DOLLAR

What the....

one dollar.JPG

Do they think we're made of money???

Well, I'm not paying it

XLR8 wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2024 6:59 pm

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2024 6:55 pm I bought a 48dp 81T spur to go with this, but seem to have lost it, it's just gone now - but would they have used 48dp in 1985?

Thanks!

I believe early 6-gears came with 32dp spurs.

This one definitely came with the 32dp, but in the JH guide, he mentions some guys were running the 48dp at the time of the article.

I was just wondering if I were trying to do a 1985 era correct RC10 (even though this could be '86), would the 48dp have been in use back that far?

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2024 7:07 pm

XLR8 wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2024 6:59 pm

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2024 6:55 pm I bought a 48dp 81T spur to go with this, but seem to have lost it, it's just gone now - but would they have used 48dp in 1985?

Thanks!

I believe early 6-gears came with 32dp spurs.

This one definitely came with the 32dp, but in the JH guide, he mentions some guys were running the 48dp at the time of the article.

I was just wondering if I were trying to do a 1985 era correct RC10 (even though this could be '86), would the 48dp have been in use back that far?

Hmmm, yes he says that but then proceeds to build it with a 32dp spur. He's giving away his guide for a buck so it can't be because he didn't have money.
I believe your car came with 32dp but you are doing mods so I reckon you could go either way.
FWIW (not much, actually) but I think a 6 gear "looks" right with 32dp.
The 2013 and 40th re-re's came with 48dp spurs but your car is the real deal, not a Taiwanese knockoff.
The important thing is; it's your car so build it your way.

All of the steering parts are cracked in some place. One set is original, the other looks like an early repro, the texture is rough.

I've always wondered if the non-threaded portion of the ball ends ( just under the hex ) tends to add additional stress to the holes that tend to crack.
At least I don't think it helps.
I have used a small countersink and a 4/40 tap on those holes. On the bottom side of the servo saver a thin 4/40 nut secures the ball end.
Hopefully AE will start releasing parts soon to help.

Chuck

XLR8 wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2024 7:25 pm Hmmm, yes he says that but then proceeds to build it with a 32dp spur. He's giving away his guide for a buck so it can't be because he didn't have money.
I believe your car came with 32dp but you are doing mods so I reckon you could go either way.
FWIW (not much, actually) but I think a 6 gear "looks" right with 32dp.
The 2013 and 40th re-re's came with 48dp spurs but your car is the real deal, not a Taiwanese knockoff.
The important thing is; it's your car so build it your way.

I did find finally find the 48dp, but I do have the original 32dp on there already, and that's what the guide is working with too. I'll stick with stock. Thanks!

radioactivity wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2024 7:55 pm

All of the steering parts are cracked in some place. One set is original, the other looks like an early repro, the texture is rough.

I've always wondered if the non-threaded portion of the ball ends ( just under the hex ) tends to add additional stress to the holes that tend to crack.
At least I don't think it helps.
I have used a small countersink and a 4/40 tap on those holes. On the bottom side of the servo saver a thin 4/40 nut secures the ball end.
Hopefully AE will start releasing parts soon to help.




Chuck

It was odd to see them broken in every ball location like that. The 40th parts seem to be not as brittle, I'll try those and put the originals in a bag.

Thanks guys!

radioactivity wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2024 7:55 pm

All of the steering parts are cracked in some place. One set is original, the other looks like an early repro, the texture is rough.

I've always wondered if the non-threaded portion of the ball ends ( just under the hex ) tends to add additional stress to the holes that tend to crack.
At least I don't think it helps.
I have used a small countersink and a 4/40 tap on those holes. On the bottom side of the servo saver a thin 4/40 nut secures the ball end.
Hopefully AE will start releasing parts soon to help.

bellcranks.1.JPG


Chuck

I think you're right about that Chuck.
And prepping them as you've described is a great tip.
I have the FanRC set and although they are very nice, the color isn't quite right (too beige) so they stand out as non-AE parts.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2024 9:07 pm

radioactivity wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2024 7:55 pm

All of the steering parts are cracked in some place. One set is original, the other looks like an early repro, the texture is rough.

I've always wondered if the non-threaded portion of the ball ends ( just under the hex ) tends to add additional stress to the holes that tend to crack.
At least I don't think it helps.
I have used a small countersink and a 4/40 tap on those holes. On the bottom side of the servo saver a thin 4/40 nut secures the ball end.
Hopefully AE will start releasing parts soon to help.

bellcranks.1.JPG


Chuck

I think you're right about that Chuck.
And prepping them as you've described is a great tip.
I have the FanRC set and although they are very nice, the color isn't quite right (too beige) so they stand out as non-AE parts.

Just ordered the Fan RC steering assembly last night, you're right, it is really beige instead of white, in the pics.

Got the idler pivot glued in place, this was spinning freely in there. When I glued it in, I had to refile the gear mesh in some spots, as the idlers are solid now, not like old wooden wagon wheels bouncing down a gravel road, like it was when when I got this.


Mark set screw spot.




Drill, tap, install set screw.


Correct location according to guide.


Looks correct, almost.


But the notch in the Bud's #2110 Diff Ring, is not wide enough for a 4-40 set screw.


Going to have to drill the Bud's rings a very slight amount wider and taller, in order to get the set screws to sit flush. Tightening the set screw now, only lifts the ring up off the hub. I followed the instructions as close as can be, not sure what happened here, or if this is a set screw from China, that exceeds tolerances of when the guide was written. Will pick this back up tomorrow.

This may not be the answer but an answer.

There are several tip types for set screws.
McMaster-Carr shows one of a couple that could possibly work. The .075 being the tip diameter.
Probably several other methods to solve the fitment issue.
I can't remember if I ever ran across this years ago, not saying I didn't, just don't remember.


Chuck

radioactivity wrote: ↑Sat Jun 01, 2024 2:58 pm This may not be the answer but an answer.

There are several tip types for set screws.
McMaster-Carr shows one of a couple that could possibly work. The .075 being the tip diameter.
Probably several other methods to solve the fitment issue.
I can't remember if I ever ran across this years ago, not saying I didn't, just don't remember.





Chuck

Those look quality. I'll see what I can do with what I have here, and if I can't get it to go, I'll pick up the ones you linked to, thanks for that!



If the requirement were to just keep the ring from spinning on the hub, I think I have achieved that so far.


But if the set screw has to be exactly flush with the ring face, I'm off a bit.

This seems like a good application for a roll pin.
It could be pressed through the hole then cut with an abrasive wheel slightly proud of the ring mounting face.
No threading necessary and the pin's cylindrical shape would provide a good fit to drive the notch in the ring.
Anyway, Jim was a master at building world championship winning RC's so I'm certain he consider all options before landing on the set screw idea.