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i busted a front arm, but it was quite a hard shot, i lifted the 5" pipe out of the ground and went under it

I needed something new to build so I picked up a V2MR direct from Atomik for $130 with free shipping. Can't beat that with a stick.

The box and packaging is nice which is a good thing to see when buying something new. I built it mid-motor just to try something different. Everything went together pretty well. The CVD's (well, one of them) are a little notchy and the transmission has a slight rough spot I need to address. The steering is also tighter than it should be so that'll need some work. The plastics generally seem pretty good with the arms being noticeably stiffer than anything else. All the pivot points are tight bordering on the side of too tight but I'll probably leave it as-is since I'm no racer. But overall I'm pleased with it. The low price tag was just gravy!

Shocks are the only mechanical bits left that needs to be done. Thanks for the setup hints, guys.

I just knocked the dust off mine to get it ready for a local toys-for-tots race on Dec 7th. The car has always performed well for me outdoors, and I have been to this particular track a couple times, once running my TLR22, the other time with my JRX2. I dropped a 7.5 in there geared 21/81 and gave it a few quick passes up/down in front of the street. Man, that is an angry motor . Cant wait to hit the track and put some laps down to see how the girl is doing.

I slighly modified an RB6 JConcepts Finnisher body on there. Little flare out at the rear, otherwise not a bad fit overall. Will take some pics tomorrow in the sunshine.

Pic with body installed and my "test" tires

Very nice!

I've since converted mine back to a 'traditional' rear motor setup since I don't want to have to buy a saddle pack to run it. I'll probably convert my DEX210 to mid-motor since you can still use stick packs with it that way. Neither car is done yet so who knows how they will end up.

last night i decided to convert my v2mr to mid motor, the conversion didn't take long, because the motor plate holes are wrong!

i almost pitched it into the trash. i really want to like this car, but poor qc has taken it's toll on me.

anyone else have this issue? motor plate works fine in rear motor but only one hole lines up in mid motor.

fyi, if you put some mileage on your v2mr, check your t-plate. i've cracked a couple now, noticed the 3rd last night.

I've got a bunch on mileage...I am in the process (need to start part) of rebuilding the car.

kaiser wrote:anyone else have this issue? motor plate works fine in rear motor but only one hole lines up in mid motor.

Not with my kit, no. It all went together fine mid-motor for the brief time I had it that way.

I might sell mine to trim down the fleet a bit. It gave me something to build a few months ago but I have no real desire to run it.

must have been a brain fart. i looked at it again last night and it worked fine. doh!

went together quite well, the 4 gear trans doens't have that "high" spot that the 3 gear does.

now i'm having an issue with motor fitment in mid motor. there's just not alot of room.
i don't see how i'm going to get a big pinion on there for 17.5 racing.

did we ever get confirmation of the fdr on this buggy? is it 2.60?

tranny is 2.60

I've seen pics of mid motor cars, it does look like a tight fit. Solder tabs to the back as well.

i was all ready to get some practice in mid motor tonight, but last night i made "the big mistake". (plugged battery in backwards)

services will be held tonight for my trusty tekin rs.

gonna run the b4 tonight, she's a fresh and ready for action.

::plays taps::

A while back I did it to two different cars on the same race day. Let the magic smoke out of both speedos.

I rebuilt my shocks last night with some McMaster-Carr X rings. Shocks felt great, this morning will be the "did they leak overnight" test.

yeah, i get the "booby prize".

it really stinks too, i'm short on rc funds at the moment. i don't think the 60amp hw xerun will fit in there and the rs pro is in my b4.

maybe try sending back to get repaired?