RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

YEEEEEEEssSssSsss...

Started in measuring the stealth trans with the dial calipers, so far so good.
I'll have it on the CMM soon enough, then the real fun starts.

One idea that's already in my head is to add some screws to keep the case halves together when the trans is off the motor plate, not sure if it'd be needed or not.

Another idea is to use dowel pins instead of or in addition to the raised ridge and the recess.
I'm mainly thinking that from an alignment standpoint the pins would work better.

My counter-thought is that if an injection molded part can hold alignment using just the ridge and recess, then a machined one should be able to as well. It's just the first time I've seen a geartrain of any type rely on such a system.

What are your thoughts?

extra screws probably aren't necessary.

the locating pins is a good idea from an overall machining complexity; less complex should mean less cost and material. I believe the molding seam provided a dust seal, so it was doing two things, but as long as the 2 parts are machined to close tolerance, it's probably not necessary.

Ah, dust seal, hadn't thought of that... I usually shoot for a mirror finish on mating surfaces.
Price is locked in right now, so it doesn't matter either way for you guys, and I could get a bag of pins if things go that route.

How close were my numbers to your measurements ?

The screws also help align the case half's
And there is an extra screw on the 2.6 T2 gearbox (bottom/front)


Morten

here is a picture that shows the inside of the machined delrin case that custom works sold its the replacement case for the b3/t3 2.4 trannies
http://www.kippshobbies.com/Custom%20Work/images/4380.jpg

Johnboy72 wrote:I'm still thinking it would be nice to have an old looking 6 gear case running modern stealth gears inside...but that's just me and wishful thinking. lol. If it all works out, I might hire Walt to make some replacement parts for my KRP cars.

That would be great, then we could use our "A" chassis without drilling holes for the stealth.

I'd like a case as well.

Mike

Just checking in to say that the CMM will be doing it's magic on the stealth case over the rest of this week.

Natural Blue degreaser and hot water, gotta get it squeaky clean.



After this, it'll be a few hours before I can get reliable measurements due to thermal expansion.

I'd be interested in a case as well...

So I'm getting a free cleaning service? Outfrigginstanding. Do your thing Walt.

Johnboy72 wrote:I'm still thinking it would be nice to have an old looking 6 gear case running modern stealth gears inside...but that's just me and wishful thinking......

Truthfully, I'd be fine with a stealth case that fits the 6 gear mounting holes. I really just want to run the updated trans guts.

Thanks to those who are taking this on, and let me know when I need to send in my $$/preorder to get in on this.

First shakedown prototype to get the gear alignment and mesh tested, everything seems to be good.

I went with 3 dowel pins instead of the raised lip for now, I figure the tester(s) will let me know if it's really needed or not.

Oh, yeah, who is willing to trust their trans guts testing one of these?
I need someone(possibly up to 3 people) who can run one, stress test it, real-world testing, etc, and give feedback on anything that would need to be tweaked or adjusted to get these perfect.

I'll be shooting to get a full prototype ready to go by mid next week.

As far as the raised lips around the screw heads, are they required, or is it better to leave it flush like the housing shown in this thread?

now's the time to give me a set of exacting specifications.

As far as the raised lips around the screw heads, are they required, or is it better to leave it flush like the housing shown in this thread?

that would kind of depend on how you're going to make the right case half......... and how the motor plate will attach to the trans.

the raised lip is there on the left case half, just like the right, so that the trans can be used in both a rear and mid motor configuration. the motor plate spacers will work on either side