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"What does 22 mean?

Some have said it was 22 years ago that the JRX2 was release. That is a coincidence.

The 22 - The car is 2wd and has the ability to be built in 2 different motor configurations, mid motor or rear motor. 2 for 2wd and 2 for 2 configurations and you have the TLR 22.
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Todd Hodge
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i also read this on TLR site when they first featured its future release, but i cant find it anymore. hmmm....

ahh... here it is...


http://www.horizonhobby.co.uk/autoonline/j29_tlr/j29_history/j29_history.html

Synergy wrote:That is some sweet box art I'll be watching your build comments JK to see if you encounter any of the "fettling" issues that others have spoken of.

Give me a hint....fit and finish is top notch. I am having some trouble with the diff. Small parts, caveman hands, well...just not as easy as the rest has been. I know I promised pics, they will get up tomorrow night....maybe

I have no specifics JK, there was a mention on oople that some owners had to make adjustments to components to make things fit, however you can never be sure of the capabilities of some and that is why I look forward to your report.

slow_jun wrote:it was named 22 because after jrx2 was release (89), it took them 22 years to build another serious race car.
if my memory serves me right.

Except that the JRX2 wasn't released in 89.

Tips from another forum for building (guess i am not the only one with diff assembly issues), i think #1 and #2 are directed at me:

• 22 Build Tips:
  
  1) place 1 small drop of CA glue on Diff nut before inserting into plastic T-nut. Use a 1.5mm wrench or .050" as a "Skewer" to hold the nut while inserting into the plastic nut. Place locknut with nylon facing upward and insert 1.5mm wrench onto nylon portion. this allows you to easily place nut into plastic T-nut.
  
  2) Do not overtighten Diff Screw!!!!!!!. Snug screw down until Spring is collapsed, back off 1/16th turn
  
  3) Always put a small amount of Silicone diff grease between diff rings and outdrives.
  
  4) Do not for get the RED spacer the goes on the input shaft before installing the slipper plates. Why Red? a Red spacer means that it is a transmission part not to be confused with the other spacers. I thought it would help identify spacers since there are so many that are close in size.
  
  5) Be careful when tightening down all king pin screws. The kingpin screw has a small radius on the underside of the screw head. do not over tighten and putting a small chamfer (using a hobby knife or other tool) is recommended.
  
  6) Turn Buckles: Use a body reamer to knock off flashing to help thread engagement.
  
  7) Shocks: The lower cap cap be loosened up to 1.5 turns to adjust friction in the O-rings. A neat adjustment!
  
  8. Placing a very small amount of locktite between rear inner hinge pin/hinge pin ball/aluminum pivots is a good way to keep the tolerances like new.
  
  9) Do not forget the M3 screw hidden under the rear shock tower that goes into the rear camber block!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  
  10) Apply blue locktite to the front wheel screw for the first couple of wheel changes. This will allow the locktite to accumulate and act like a locknut.
  
  11) The small screw that fastens the rear toe plate pivot to the chassis is meant to keep the rear suspension in place while removing the transmission for diff service. There is no need to remove the motor guard (rear motor config.) when removing the transmission. Remove trans mount screws and simply pull the motor guard back and remove transmission, leaving motor guard in place.
  
  12) Servo alignment / tie rod / End Point Adjustment is very critical. The 22 has the most steering throw of any buggy. It is not uncommon to end up with very high EPA settings!!!!

I am still waiting to hear from my local dealer. I had him order me one when they first got announced.
Probably won't even race it any time soon after I do get it. Too many other things going on.

I have actually been working on selling all my old vintage stuff off. Not sure why I even ordered one. It just looked to cool to pass up.

shane wrote:How did Losi come up with the name "22"? Sorry, if I missed it somewhere. Does anyone know?

Two wheel drive with two motor configurations.

Local shop had a couple in the store tonight. Would like to get one, but then again I want to buy a lot of stuff..

Maybe in 20 years I will pick one up from ebay

My local shop got 15 and they were gone within a half hour i was told.

On the way home tonight I almost stopped by LOSI HQ to see if anyone was there with balloons and confetti celebrating the release. Losi is 2.4 miles from my house.

Just a couple observations, even as I was building the 22, I'm looking at parts to see if anything works for old is new AE builds...

Perfect fit, no trimming


Wow...a Losi dogbone fits in an AE cup, quite well too....

Classic vintage thinking there! Here I have this new state of the art car, wonder how these parts would fit on my antique car

antiques need love too!!

anything that can fit without modifications (off the shelf parts), that can keep them on the track a little longer is a big + in my book

Went to Moto Arena's (Silverstone Race circuit, UK) Tuesday club night.... there were loads of TLR 22s running & they did look good.... however they were not 'WOW' so much better than anything else out there... but then I guess most guys have yet to get to grip with the set-ups etc.... put it this way, only one 22 out qualified me (I started 5th off the grid in the A) but the only Losi that was ahead of me by the finish was another Atomic Carbon CR2 (I finished 3rd)

Time will tell, but I do think the 22 like many 2wd Losi's in the past are 'forgiving' cars to drive.