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I have the top shaft,and spacer.....The shaft diameter of the b4 is way bigger than stock......Even if I change the bearing size is still wont work? Not sure whats going on here? I did notice one thing, I have the mip aluminum top shaft,Pretty possitive it is the same as the stock unit? Maybe?

hairymuffin wrote:I have the top shaft,and spacer.....The shaft diameter of the b4 is way bigger than stock......Even if I change the bearing size is still wont work? Not sure whats going on here? I did notice one thing, I have the mip aluminum top shaft,Pretty possitive it is the same as the stock unit? Maybe?

The MIP aluminum one is machined differently,it's diameter is that of the stock(9601) with the spacer(9602).
You need the stock associated b4 top shaft without the spacer.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEAC1&P=7

Toasted Coastie wrote:

RC104ever wrote: However, there are still MIP RC10 CVDs available at some stores on line.
For the spur gear, if I am using the B4 top shaft/slipper set up, I use the 79 or 81, and tend to go low with the pinion.

I bought a set of the MIP RC10 CVD's from Tower but they are a bit too short for full suspension droop. Whenever I pick up the car, they pop out of the outdrives - very frustrating.

I am currently running the RPM rear arms with stock rear arm mounts, new RC10 hubs with bearings, again all bought new from Tower. It seems to me the MIP RC10 CVD's were meant for the 6 gear tranny and don't work great for the Stealth. Is there another option? I'd prefer not to have to change the hubs or anything else. I tried some B4 CVD's today at my LHS and they seem like they'd be too long. Maybe B2 or B3 CVD's? I like the idea of shiny CVD's

I also replaced my top shaft with the B4 one and a 78T spur, with the octagonal shaped slipper pads. My question here is, from the original stealth, there are two washers that sandwich differential ball set - do I need this on the B4 setup as well? I've also seen black grease and green slime for the stealth - do I need this?

you mention "new" rear hub carriers, stock or from a newer car?

green slime is mostly for shocks (that is all I have used it for)
black grease is for the thrust bearing

for the B4 top shaft:

gear - plate - pad - gear - pad - plate - spring - nut

that is how it should look.

JK Racing wrote:you mention "new" rear hub carriers, stock or from a newer car?

green slime is mostly for shocks (that is all I have used it for)
black grease is for the thrust bearing

for the B4 top shaft:

gear - plate - pad - gear - pad - plate - spring - nut

that is how it should look.

Sorry they are 'new' stock rear hub carriers from Tower:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2557&P=M

Thanks for answering my question about the top shaft. But now I have another question - how come on the older / original stealth, the top shaft has a bearing in the middle of the gear and has the differential piece in it on the shaft? Looks like a washer with small diff balls on it. Not really important, I'm just curious as to why the B4 top shaft is 'better' (and it is much quieter now).

the B4 top shaft is quieter probably due to new gear VS old worn gear.

the double pad slipper is smoother/easier to adjust than the older single pad slipper, but both provide the same protection to the transmission. the older single pad slipper use the thrust bearing in the center, the newer set ups do not. couldnt give you the exact reason, but probably so that the spring wouldnt spin and grind into the plate.

like mentioned in the other thread, your dog bone issues can be solved with limiting the travel of the shocks.

I may have solved my own problem. The MIP shiny CVD kit dogbones were just a little too long, maybe 1/4" or so. I measured the current dogbones and they are about 2" long (actually a bit longer, I just can't remember right now).

According to Tower's website, there are a couple possible options for me:

1. 9597 MIP CVD bone = 2.75"
2. Custom Works GBX stock Dogbone 2.364" http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNTM2&P=7
3. Custom Works GSX stock dogbone = 2.75", same as above but cheaper

Since I can source#1 locally, I will call my LHS and try these and see what happens.

Kaiser Q wrote:

hairymuffin wrote:I have the top shaft,and spacer.....The shaft diameter of the b4 is way bigger than stock......Even if I change the bearing size is still wont work? Not sure whats going on here? I did notice one thing, I have the mip aluminum top shaft,Pretty possitive it is the same as the stock unit? Maybe?

The MIP aluminum one is machined differently,it's diameter is that of the stock(9601) with the spacer(9602).
You need the stock associated b4 top shaft without the spacer.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEAC1&P=7

Got the new part....thanks a lot, fits perfect

can anyone steer me in the right direction for turnbuckle/tierod lengths?

front
10t nose, bulkhead and front tower, klein arms, houge rack

rear
stock bulkhead, klein arms, rpm 70272 (gt) hubs.

any help is greatly appreaciated.

my old is new is coming along nicely. just ordered the odd ball bearings for the rpm hubs from avid, once they come in and i have tierods i'll be in good shape.

i still can't decide what to run in the 2wd class @ the vonats, this car or my jrx2. i guess i'll have to decide once i hit the track with the old is new.

kaiser wrote: i still can't decide what to run in the 2wd class @ the vonats, this car or my jrx2. i guess i'll have to decide once i hit the track with the old is new.

That's a tough call. I have both and they are both very different cars. I've been driving my RC10 more lately but honestly I prefer the JRX. I'm sure there are others that would feel the opposite so all I can suggest is to get them both setup well and then drive the one you are most consistent with.

so last night i worked on the front end to see if i could figure out what tierods to use, come to find out the stock ce tierods fit like a glove.
thats cool! i'm still going to install factory team blue ti ones, but now i know the sizes.

i'm very happy with the front end, feels very nice.

i've got my old is new pretty much done, except i want to use some custome works .125" rear wheel spacers which i have but the nuts barely thread on.

where can i get low profile lock nuts? preferably blue?

anyone?

thanks.

Turn the nut around so the nylon faces in. We.always had to do that on the LR with a .200 spacer. Never came free with super sticky foams and a 4.5

thanks reg, that's what i've got going on now.

fyi, ae makes low profile lock nuts for the front of the b44, i picked up a few of them. they work great.