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I believe that the TQ chassis has the same distance between arm mounts as the other RC10 chassis. I just used it because it was a cheap ebay find.

The length from rear to front axle is 290mm or 11 7/16", the front width from where the axle meets the hub is 233mm or 9 1/4", and the rear width is 253mm or 9 13/16".

I'm not sure which units you usually use, but I'm familiar with both. I just prefer metric over imperial simply to stay away from fractions, unless you are using inches on fractions of a 1/10 scale, then you might as well be using metric. I think that's how americans show that they actually like our metric system better

Of course this all depends on your setup. Keep in mind I got the 0 deg rear arm mounts and front wide axles.

Sweet-- thanks for the stats.

I don't mind metric-- being an Optician, I work in it every day. The catch is that I don't have any Metric rulers at home!

vintage AE wrote:I got to looking under the gear cover, and it wasn't the pinion gear that was loose. I'm not sure how many things happened to this spur gear, but it's warped, worn unevenly and looks like the thing lost a few screw placements

just one more win for the mamba max 5700 the war must go on though

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my tools wouldn't have saved me this time, but my extra spur gear would...looks like I need to get more of them.

Vintage--

I had this same thing happen to me last night with mine-- Upon closer inspection, on the bench, I found that the slipper had gotten so hot that it heated up the mounting screws, melting the slots in the spur gear, & warping it out of shape! The warping then threw the teeth out of alignment, causing them to strip.

The back-side of the spur gear was melted smooth where it contacted the slipper & the slipper disc also had melted plastic stuck to it--

have you had this issue reoccur?

I was pondering some sort of heat sink / cooling fins for the slipper assembly, but it seems like a lot of unnecessary work when compared to upgrading to the latest slipper design.
I now see the wisdom of the new (B4 T4) slipper system-- it allows for much better cooling of the slipper & keeps the heat off the spur gear. Looks like I'm going to be upgrading further!

hey Jeep-Power

Sorry I didn't get back to you, I forgot to check in on this thread after I got the notification in my email.

Yeah, it's happened and I use the B4 top drive assembly now on all my brushless RC10s. The B4 top drive with the upgraded slipper works a lot better.

You Guys could go to a solid spur ?

One of these is what I was thinking...HR hard anodized aluminum spurs from Everything RC on ebay

no sweat Vintage.

vintage AE wrote:One of these is what I was thinking...HR hard anodized aluminum spurs from Everything RC on ebay

sct875hpic11242858063_0.jpg

wow, that's sexy!

Jeep-Power wrote:no sweat Vintage.

vintage AE wrote:One of these is what I was thinking...HR hard anodized aluminum spurs from Everything RC on ebay

sct875hpic11242858063_0.jpg

wow, that's sexy!

WHAT, you mean this isn't sexy

it is pretty hard to beat that kind of sexy...

seriously-- is anyone melting the b4 slippers?

Sorry for digging this out of the grave but I gotta say this. That is one sweet buggy! Just wondering if the wb is closer to that of an RC10T or that of a gold pan buggy?

Darkrider wrote:Sorry for digging this out of the grave but I gotta say this. That is one sweet buggy! Just wondering if the wb is closer to that of an RC10T or that of a gold pan buggy?

I know what you mean, but this thing is far from the grave. It's tears things up everytime I try and tame it The mamba max 5700kv should come out and something with just a little less power should go in. Then again I could program the esc to "stop tearing crap up" mode.

I think the wb is similar to the 10T. Really the only difference is the design of the front shock tower, front wheels (kinda) and the body is different.

vintage AE wrote:

Darkrider wrote:Sorry for digging this out of the grave but I gotta say this. That is one sweet buggy! Just wondering if the wb is closer to that of an RC10T or that of a gold pan buggy?

I know what you mean, but this thing is far from the grave. It's tears things up everytime I try and tame it The mamba max 5700kv should come out and something with just a little less power should go in. Then again I could program the esc to "stop tearing crap up" mode.

I think the wb is similar to the 10T. Really the only difference is the design of the front shock tower, front wheels (kinda) and the body is different.

I recall seeing comments in the buggy section about Truck length wb buggys not looking good.... Yours def proves that one wrong! I might wind up building something similar using a gold pan and a 10t/gt nose plate set at truck wb. As well as adding the klein arms for an old is new conversion but using sc wheels on it instead of b4 wheels. Just to be different lol

lol, I like the sounds of that build

vintage AE wrote:lol, I like the sounds of that build

Will def make sure its posted on here for ya to see it take shape! The way I figure is that the sc wheels lower profile will help with stability and slightly reduce rolling mass on each corner of the truggy. Another plus is that the larger inner dia on the inside of the sc wheels will provide more clearance for suspension components.