RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

theibault wrote:Anyone who runs one of these is running it for nostalgia. If you are running a stock class, then by all means you should be running a modern car. This thing is over twenty years old, a lot has gotten better since then. I'm asking politely here, but did you really think you where going to be competitive to todays buggies on an equal playing field?

What makes a modern car so much better?

built my Worlds Car Kit Stealth tonight, no slipper rub for me

Godspeed I think the refinement makes them better. Sure they all can go fast, but the technical aspects of it get finer and finer. Think of it in terms of full size cars like I did using corvettes.

Edinger = C1 first gen
Champ = C2
Worlds = C3
B2 = C4
B3 = C5
B4 = C6
B5 = C7

Sure we all love the first one simply because they were the first, but would you race a Gen 1 against a C7. Even heavily modded it would have a tough go at it because of the C7's refinement. Just my 2 cents

I was definitely not complaining on the cars ability to compete with the "modern" stuff. I was complaining about part fit issues for sure and from what I gather I am certainly not the only one having issues. I have already placed better than some b5m's and b5's as well and the b4.1 and b4.2 too. just as I was starting to get the hang of the new layout I would pop a ball cup and the last straw was the cva dogbone popping out of the outdrive in my main. I cleaned it up and its currently on its way to Colorado for some stuff to be done to it so I wont have any time with it until it comes back. when it does it will have a full set of rpm ball cups and a slew or fancy parts waiting to be installed in it. as far as the cva dogbone length I guess I will deal with that issue when it comes back...im gonna have some custom spacers milled to try and get the end of the dogbone closer to the inside of the outdrive so I wont have an issue anymore....or maybe associated will come up with a solution

What's the deal with the CVA? lots of droop causing it? Stock ballcups always get replaced!!! (Might need them still on the outer bellcrank though)

they are just too short...they are literally riding at the end of the out drive. I think that under hard landing that the suspension flexes enough to allow the dogbone to pop outta the outdrive because the ball cup was still on...I initially thought it was the motor shifting away from the spur until I went to pull the wheels to get to the gear cover and noticed it flopping around. when the buggy gets back ill take pics of it. it was built exactly with the amount of shims per side as well...almost seems like it needs to come in another 1-2mm. its bizarre for sure.

Hey, quick question, what's people's thoughts on cutting the rear bulkhead "for a more authentic look"?

I did it...looks cleaner and since the rc10 is a pig anyways,i wanna shed weight everywhere I can with it

hondaman wrote: I just use a little alcohol and clean the balls..

Am I the only one who finds this amusing (as 42 going on 13)? Do you all get alcohol involved then clean your balls?

I'm asking, but I'm not really sure I want to know the answer.....

Carry on with the serious stuff....

Alex

Putting an extra spacer inside shock would probably cure driveshafts popping out.

Incredible_Serious wrote:

hondaman wrote: I just use a little alcohol and clean the balls..

Am I the only one who finds this amusing (as 42 going on 13)? Do you all get alcohol involved then clean your balls?

I'm asking, but I'm not really sure I want to know the answer.....

Carry on with the serious stuff....

Alex

Welllllllllllllll I have been known to do weird stuff when under the influence of alcohol.. It can be a little painful if there is a scuff before cleaning the balls.. Also a light rubbing gets them clean.. you don't want to hurt your balls..

Shawn

actually did add an extra spacer in the shocks all the way round since I felt the buggy needed a lower stance and to help cg a bit before the cva issue but I do appreciate the info as to trying an extra spacer to keep the cva's from popping out. its a mis measured part tolerance on associated end again much like the nightmare that is the "new and improved stealth". im having feeling that this buggy is gonna end up with some dyna tech arms front and rear as well as a stealth trans that will work right the first time. the buggy is gonna be headed in a new direction race wise so a lot of the issues im having now will not be an issue for sure.

Got a new top shaft from a B4, gearbox all good. Measured the 2 and had 1.2mm in play, have to wait for a new CVA as one of the sets doesn't have enough clearance in the cup, almost there

Goldrush,
You may have good results with the (discontinued, sorry) RPM GT rear axle hubs. They have a higher axle position, which puts the axle more in line with the outdrive on the stealth, and provides a lot less plunge. This will also give you the lower stance it sounds like you're after.
One thing that impressed me while assembling my Classic re-re was how little plunge there was with the axle due to the lower outdrive found in the 6 gear trans. It's worth noting that as nice as the (original) stealth was, it was a retrofit trans for a rear suspension that was designed for the 6 gear, which incidentally had a very low outdrive as an objective.

Have encountered my first issue with my Worlds Car build, not sure if this has been highlighted yet. One of my CVD cups has an off centre hole, not allowing the universal to be assembled, hopefully this pic illustrates what is happening, now this is purely poor QC, and has nothing to do with it being an old kit that needs finesse to build, other than this, I've been really enjoying the build to date, gonna be interesting how I go about getting this rectified.