well the rebuild for my runner has begun. I started by tearing the whole truck down and oxy cleaning everything thoroughly. i was debating to dye or not to dye and still am not sure if i made the right decision but the remaining original parts i dyed black. front bulkhead (i think thats what you call it) and all the little plastic odds and ends. well i was at it i took steel wool to the front and rear springs to shine them up, i then proceeded to shoot them with duplicolor metalcast blue which gave them a blue anodized look. turned out pretty cool. I also dyed and built the RPM tranny conversion kit. now all I'm left with is deciding whether or not to strip the anodizing on the tub so i can shoot it blue with the metalcast or just sand it and re shoot black or shoot it with duplicolors graphite wheel coating (pretty tough stuff, used it both on my jeep's wheels and on the forms and wheels of one of cycles i recently rebuilt) that would somewhat match the shock bodies. any one have an opinion of the chassis? (no powder coat or reanodizing, this is a play truck) no matter what i plan on coating the under side of the tub with something, though not sure just what yet. here are a few pics of where its at. Also i have included a pic of a chassis that i intend to CNC mill out of aluminum (kinda ripped off the design from the CC double deck chassis) the image is a rough solid sketch originally drawn to the RC10 buggy chassis
lookin good so far...I would go blue with the frame to match the springs plus it would look awesome IMO...BTW What program did you use to draw that pic?
I used solidworks to make the model. I'm in college going for a degree in industrial design. I'll soon start using rhino which does a much better job for modeling.
your drawing looks good, except for the fact that your making it for a 10t and you have a buggy kickup on it. and remember that the truck chassis is longer than the buggy.
JUSS10 wrote:the image is a rough solid sketch originally drawn to the RC10 buggy chassis
so yes it does have a buggy kick up and is longer, but that's because i originally drew it to make a chassis for my original RC10. i need to shorten and hack off the kick up for the 10T
CNC milled from aluminum? Not attacking your intentions, but doesn't seem like overkill for two flat plate separately by vertical stand off. Please don't take it the wrong way, that's not how I meant it.
I am not here cause I am playing photographer and on my mountain bike. www.gojammedia.com
are you saying its over kill as in its to much work? i guess to me it seems the easiest way. i guess i could have it water jet or laser cut too. I'm going to knock one out of poly carb first as a proto and see how it turns out. who knows maybe i wont get around to it but i can dream right? I just really like making things on cnc machines.
anyway, here is the truck after today. i just decided to sand the tub with 220 then primed and painted with duplicolor wheel coating. covered real nice and i think it blends well with the overall scheme. I'll let it cure good before i start throwing in the electronics but I'm really pleased with how it turned out. so i started with this:
and ended with this:
for less than $15 it seems pretty good for a cheap clean "refresh" of a well used car. and i still have quite a bit of white parts left over
I snapped a few pics of my nearly complete 10T restore and felt like sharing. Well, not so much a restore than a rebuild of what it use to be. Here she is:
RPM Bumper
RPM front body mounts
RPM front A arms
RPM rear A arms
RPM rear hub carriers
RPM...
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I want to say it's a Lycra or Spandex type of cloth. Very thin, smooth and stretchy. My wife sews also and she is going to see if she can pick up some of the same stuff and make a few sets for my other trucks. My T3 and other T2 are in need of them,...
Lately I've developed (re-developed) a bit of a stadium truck fetish. My buddy and I had a pair of stadium trucks briefly when we were in college. I had a Losi LXT that I bought used with my high school graduation money, and not long after he bought...
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This week I made a little bit of progress. I'm using the original chassis for now until I can find a better one. I want to find an earlier B stamp with only the offset holes, but for now, this one is going to suffice. It's pretty clean, and would be...
I got this very nice RC10T from a now infamous member in a trade deal a while back. Contrary to other folks on here I have had a very pleasant and lucrative trading experience with him. This truck is just one example. I got the body in a separate...
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Parking lot racing mmm never done any on road but i would like to try well i should have my ds ready for then i bought a nds for 60 bucks tyo convert it flys with the brushless in it im still doing my homework on the lipos i will have to commit one...
Hi there! Long-time RCer, first time RC10talk poster!
I usually have a pretty large hangar of 6 or 7 RC's, but I voluntarily gave them all up to show my parents that I'm committed to doing better in college (I slipped a bit last semester). I still...
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Rebuild kits should be available, I think the 1.02 shocks are used still on sc10's
Working on the cars has lead me to wonder what years do I have ? I bought it brand new in 91 I believe?? Came with ball bearing a black tub. Has the skinny front wheels also.. the other is a green tub..before I forget both have anodized shocks .....
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Haha I had to reread it a few times to make sure as well! But alas...it was not edited :shock: 8)
Here is a picture of my RC10T. All stock except for the steering turnbuckles, CVDs and gear cover. I have the original parts somewhere in a box.... The electronics is from a SC10 RTR.
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VHB from 3 m works great for mounting, but white servo posts are easy to find-