The RC10 4wd

[RogueIV]

4 Top Cats in that video!

All of the talk about legality for vintage racing and which class the RC10 4WD should run is fine, but, in the end, if people want to run them, they will be accomodated.

Honestly, it's still not going to be as competitive as a purpose built 4wd so I don't see the harm in letting them run. I feel like the Brits go off the deep end with some of their scrutineering in these revival classes. I've said it before and I'll say it again, make rules simple, over regulating everything just makes everyone's life more annoying. Who wants to sit there teching every car?

[jonboy]

The esc is Big.. I got one in my fan on the back bulk head.. bit of a pain! Just wondering if anybody done it?

Wouldn't know as the Max10 stuff is aimed at the basher market as they aren't race legal. For a budget setup I would go for the Hobbywing QUICRUN 10BL120 Sensored G2 as it's basically their old top spec ESC repackaged with the SkyRC Ares 13.5T. It would have about the same speed once tuned but more controllable and certainly a lot easier to route the sensor cable through to the motor.

Hey Terry many thanks.. I cant find a combo of both parts tho modelsport do sell them separate..?

[terry.sc]

Hey Terry many thanks.. I cant find a combo of both parts tho modelsport do sell them separate..?

Race stuff is always sold separately, all the connections are to a universal standard, but you will have to solder the motor wires to the motor. The only advantage for the max10 is that there's no soldering involved. Both the ESC and motor I suggested should be available from Modelsport.

[terry.sc]

I feel like the Brits go off the deep end with some of their scrutineering in these revival classes. I've said it before and I'll say it again, make rules simple, over regulating everything just makes everyone's life more annoying. Who wants to sit there teching every car?

Our vintage racing here in the UK is much more mature than other countries, there are very few vintage collectors racing and heats are usually filled with whatever the latest re-release is as it's competitive "vintage style " racing. We only recently introduced a 10.5T motor limit because the fastest buggies even in the earlier classes were running 7.5T and 8.5T motors in both 2wd and 4wd.

In the UK we had simple rules 10 years ago, when the only people racing vintage were collectors who took it as an opportunity to get together, show off and discuss vintage cars, and have a bit of racing on the side. The only real rule was that cars were put in classes based on their age. No one cared about running modern parts because re-releases didn't exist outside of Tamiya and the limited edition RC10 back then. Then old racers started turning up a few years later who started to take the racing seriously, so suddenly we had drivers being allowed to run modern big bore shocks because the racers couldn't find brand new vintage shocks for less, even though you could find lightly used ones for a lot less. Then modern slippers were allowed. Then you find cars turning up with later model suspensions on them. The we had the Chimera Model Sport team turn up with an Optima with a 2 inch longer wheelbase on a milled 5mm thick carbon fibre plate chassis. After having been told it was too extreme they turned up the next year with this creation.

It's an Optima, with a brass front bulkhead, a 5mm thick fibreglass chassis with pockets machined in it for the electrics to sit in to lower the centre of gravity, and all the electrics moved forward so it could achieve the same weight distribution as modern buggies. This buggy is why we now have rules that only 50g of stick on weights are allowed, all alloy upgrade parts must be the same shape as the original plastic part it replaces, and the battery must be in the same position as the original chassis, so the weight distribution is the same as the original. The Chimera team always uses the Parma eagle body on all their cars because it's a forward cab shell, but it also makes it very hard to tell whether they are running a longer wheelbase.

Our rules are so lenient that using the JC Racing RC10 gearbox that uses B6 internals is allowed. Last year we had the Trickbits YZ10R and Rubrix Racing RX4E, both of which are very expensive modern interpretations designed specifically to be used with brushless systems and people are unhappy that those are allowed as they are only loosely connected to the original 1990s chassis. At least they are a lot nearer the original 1990s designs than the RC104WD is to an MIP conversion. I personally have more of a problem with those 4wds that dominate their group than I do for the RC10, because the long arms and stealth gearbox means it should run in the 89-93 class with Lazers, Cat 2000s a Top Force Evos where it shouldn't be competitive which is why there is talk here of giving them their own class, although I'm sure some will try and get it put in with the Optimas because the original MIP chain cars were around back then. But the problem is if it is allowed in even though it didn't exist back then, then owners of other custom made buggies that theoretically could have existed but didn't, such as the optima above, could argue that they should be allowed as well. And yes, we will have racers here arguing that their one off creations should be allowed.

[Frankentruck]

...we had the Chimera Model Sport team turn up with an Optima

That. Optima. Is. AWESOME!!!!

[jonboy]

Hey Terry many thanks.. I cant find a combo of both parts tho modelsport do sell them separate..?

Race stuff is always sold separately, all the connections are to a universal standard, but you will have to solder the motor wires to the motor. The only advantage for the max10 is that there's no soldering involved. Both the ESC and motor I suggested should be available from Modelsport.

Thanks Terry I'm trying to get a grip of the esc / motor setups, I've been out of RC cars for a long time.. I used race at mendip with 8th & 1oth electric early 90s , then a little buggying local to me just after that when there was no brushless/lipo setup. Got the tenth tech predator but the yz10 suited my best.. Seemed much easier back then turn count/ triple etc & a noval or tekin.. Got a few cars now since starting back, just shame i've not got a local club to give one a go

[terry.sc]

...Seemed much easier back then turn count/ triple etc & a novak or tekin..

It's much the same with brushless, the lower the turn number the faster the motor, but while you can adjust the motor timing most of the motor tuning is done by programming the ESC. Hobbywing is the biggest name in ESCs, they probably make about 90%+ of the ESCs in rc cars these days as they supply almost every ESC used in rtr models and dominate the race scene, and also make a lot of the motors. If you aren't racing a 13.5T motor should give you plenty of speed in an RC10 4WD, a 17.5T motor will be a little slower but easier to drive. A 10.5T motor will give you more speed and power than you would ever want to put through it.

[R6cowboy]

So far I have a silver RC10 chassis set, ti turnbuckles, V2 shocks, CVD's and the Ten4.1 kit. Today, I added everything left that's needed to complete a RC10 Ten4.1 to the shopping cart, then realized it's cheaper to buy a new FanRC racer Worlds kit and AE stealth trans, which also gives me a bunch of spare parts leftover. And now my tight-wad side is contemplating using my Team car in lieu of spending $800+ building a Ten4.1 car 100% from new parts. Which is now pissing me off

[GoMachV]

the rere Team car was definitely the way to go, but now that they are hard to find its a matter of waiting to see what they do next. The Fan car works great too you just need the AE trans case. They fixed them now so if you get a current production case the fan diff will fit great.

[R6cowboy]

the rere Team car was definitely the way to go, but now that they are hard to find its a matter of waiting to see what they do next. The Fan car works great too you just need the AE trans case. They fixed them now so if you get a current production case the fan diff will fit great.

My Team Car is original early '90s RC10, reason why I don't want to use it.
From my understanding the fit and finish of Fan is above and beyond what Associated is putting out with the reres, that's why I'm looking at a lot of Fan parts for the build, using the Fan diff up front and a new AE trans out back.

[GoMachV]

yes, imo the parts are as good or better than AE.

[GoMachV]

Forgot to mention, we have the RC10 4WD chassis braces in stock now as well. These do not fit Ten4 or any other platform

https://factoryworks.com/shop/ols/categories/team-associated-4wd

[Ronbo]

Forgot to mention, we have the RC10 4WD chassis braces in stock now as well. These do not fit Ten4 or any other platform

https://factoryworks.com/shop/ols/categories/team-associated-4wd

I figured your brace would go from the nose tubes back to the rear bulkhead on each side vs this one?

[GoMachV]

I found no need for separate braces, the flex with one vs two is the same and using just one makes the battery access much easier. The AE car is also harder to tie into the nose braces since the tensioner lives there.

[Rc10812]

Does AE sell a stealth kit?