Starting my RC10L rebuild
- Tucsonan
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Starting my RC10L rebuild
I've finally started working on my old RC10L graphite car. It sat in a box for about 30 years and then got a quick run last June using 30 year old Ni-Cads that were still taped onto the chassis which ended with the left rear hub getting loose. During my RC10 Graphite rebuild I damaged the servo saver while trying to steal a ball end from the rc10L
I can't just NOT have a project, and all mother other builds are complete, so I dove in.
Out went the ancient Airtronics servo, broken servo saver and dried up foams. In their place are an AGFRC B53BHP servo, Kimbrough large servo saver and BSR World GT tires.
Unfortunately I seem to have lost a belleville washer so rebuilding the differential will have to wait. If anyone knows of a source for substitutes please let me know, otherwise I'm off to Ebay.
For the moment I'm going to stick with the old Tekin 311 speed controller and equally old 27 turn Peak Performance brushed motor, although at some point I may feel the need for speed and upgrade.
I ordered two Sabulatech bodies for a single car because, I don't know, I guess I just don't have enough masking tape and paint fumes in my life.
The receiver will be a Flysky FGr4D which I pretty much use in everything.
I can't just NOT have a project, and all mother other builds are complete, so I dove in.
Out went the ancient Airtronics servo, broken servo saver and dried up foams. In their place are an AGFRC B53BHP servo, Kimbrough large servo saver and BSR World GT tires.
Unfortunately I seem to have lost a belleville washer so rebuilding the differential will have to wait. If anyone knows of a source for substitutes please let me know, otherwise I'm off to Ebay.
For the moment I'm going to stick with the old Tekin 311 speed controller and equally old 27 turn Peak Performance brushed motor, although at some point I may feel the need for speed and upgrade.
I ordered two Sabulatech bodies for a single car because, I don't know, I guess I just don't have enough masking tape and paint fumes in my life.
The receiver will be a Flysky FGr4D which I pretty much use in everything.
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Re: Starting my RC10L rebuild
This things gonna rip! Got some carpet track time with my Tamiya 956 Group C on foams. 1/10 pan car is fantastic
https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/1128732-tamiya-1-10-le-mans-group-c-racers.html
https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/1128732-tamiya-1-10-le-mans-group-c-racers.html
Drivers,
Less than five... Go OnTheTone
onthetone.blogspot.com
Less than five... Go OnTheTone
onthetone.blogspot.com
- Tucsonan
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Re: Starting my RC10L rebuild
Can anyone recommend a good source for part 8213, the Belleville washers used in the axle? Part 4737 seems to have different dimensions and the only things I can find on ebay are 5369 which was for the RC500 and 3435 which looks right but was a single washer for the RC12L.
- morrisey0
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Re: Starting my RC10L rebuild
https://hobbyhobby.com/8213-differential-thrust-cone/asc8213/10060/
They show them in stock at least, at a decent price.
Good luck with the build! I love building pan cars! Just so simple and to the point!
They show them in stock at least, at a decent price.
Good luck with the build! I love building pan cars! Just so simple and to the point!

I build RCs like people would have done back in the '90s ..................................... if they had 3D printers.
- Tucsonan
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Re: Starting my RC10L rebuild
Thanks! They had a few other parts I'd been hunting for as well. Grabbing 5 or 6 parts at once makes me feel better about paying for shipping from Canada.morrisey0 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 28, 2025 7:36 pm https://hobbyhobby.com/8213-differential-thrust-cone/asc8213/10060/
They show them in stock at least, at a decent price.
Good luck with the build! I love building pan cars! Just so simple and to the point!![]()
- Tucsonan
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Re: Starting my RC10L rebuild
While I'm waiting on parts to arrive does anyone have advice on mounting shorty lipo packs on the RC10L chassis? I might go with a velcro battery strap looped through the old saddle pack holes, if I can get it tight enough to secure the battery and it doesn't drag on the pavement.
- THEYTOOKMYTHUMB
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Re: Starting my RC10L rebuild
I used 3M Dual Lock Velcro strips. They're crazy strong so you don't have to use much and can pretty much make them invisible with some trimming. You can get it in the 3M section at any big box store.Tucsonan wrote: ↑Sat Apr 05, 2025 4:59 pm While I'm waiting on parts to arrive does anyone have advice on mounting shorty lipo packs on the RC10L chassis? I might go with a velcro battery strap looped through the old saddle pack holes, if I can get it tight enough to secure the battery and it doesn't drag on the pavement.
"The world looks so much better through beer goggles: Enjoy today, you never know what tomorrow may bring."
Ken
Ken
- Tucsonan
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Re: Starting my RC10L rebuild
A little progress. The Belleville washers arrived. The diff got fresh carbide balls and is nice and smooth. For the moment I'm treating with old connectors and batteries, but I'll swap over to lipos and decent connectors soon.
I'll probably mount the lipo battery on the left side and shift the electronics to the right rear.
Ignore the wacky wing mount. It was cobbled together 30 years ago, but it looks great with the Mazda RX-792P IMSA body
I'll probably mount the lipo battery on the left side and shift the electronics to the right rear.
Ignore the wacky wing mount. It was cobbled together 30 years ago, but it looks great with the Mazda RX-792P IMSA body
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Re: Starting my RC10L rebuild
Looking good! I'm in the middle of restoring a 10LSO a friend gave me a couple years ago. I've spent more on little misc NIP parts than I ever thought I would. 

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