ReRe rear dogbones popping out

[Brendan2904]

David Kaffka also posted this for the shock limiting.

I thought the 4wd came with shorter rear shock shafts than the Classic.

I’m not sure. I have even broken the seal yet. I am just trying to get all the information I can on the dogbone thing before I start my builds. I have a RC10 T sport that I hope to finish this week then either the 4wd, ReRe RC10T, or the ReRe Team car are going to be built. Probably the 4wd first.

[Ronbo]

David Kaffka also posted this for the shock limiting.

I thought the 4wd came with shorter rear shock shafts than the Classic.

I’m not sure. I have even broken the seal yet. I am just trying to get all the information I can on the dogbone thing before I start my builds. I have a RC10 T sport that I hope to finish this week then either the 4wd, ReRe RC10T, or the ReRe Team car are going to be built. Probably the 4wd first.

Shock shafts are .71 front, 1.02 rear. Front body is .71, rear body is 1.32.

[TRX-1-3]

This is why I like the old A&L instructions for dogbone install. Specified clearly are the internal and external shock limiters needed to keep the bones in the zones!

[helbnd1]

David Kaffka also posted this for the shock limiting.

I thought the 4wd came with shorter rear shock shafts than the Classic.

It does come with the 1.02 shafts, not the 1.32 as the original. So not as long a limiter is needed.

[1911Colt]

keep the bones in the zones!

Isn't there a Losi/Schumacher-style telescoping driveshaft option to avoid all of this drama?

[RogueIV]

keep the bones in the zones!

Isn't there a Losi/Schumacher-style telescoping driveshaft option to avoid all of this drama?

Raborn made a kit for that. I wonder if the man who bought it has any of those in his stock. I know he has some losi parts.

[Brendan2904]

That washer fix for the 4wd was perfect. Now I am working on the Team ReRe and there is nothing that can fix this that I can figure out. It needs longer dog bones.

[Tucsonan]

That washer fix for the 4wd was perfect. Now I am working on the Team ReRe and there is nothing that can fix this that I can figure out. It needs longer dog bones.

I was able to solve the problem with my Team Gold Re-Release by using 1/4" fuel tubing as a spacer undre the piston on the shock shaft. Cut it about 1/2 inch long, maybe 5/8ths just to be sure and make the cuts very square for full contact. Also make sure you attach the shock to the outermost hole in the rear arm.

[Brendan2904]

That washer fix for the 4wd was perfect. Now I am working on the Team ReRe and there is nothing that can fix this that I can figure out. It needs longer dog bones.

I was able to solve the problem with my Team Gold Re-Release by using 1/4" fuel tubing as a spacer undre the piston on the shock shaft. Cut it about 1/2 inch long, maybe 5/8ths just to be sure and make the cuts very square for full contact. Also make sure you attach the shock to the outermost hole in the rear arm.

I did that as well but there is still barely any dogbone in the outdrives. The cvd definitely needs to be longer. I’m waiting for MIP to restock but AE should have already fixed this by making them longer.

[Tucsonan]

That washer fix for the 4wd was perfect. Now I am working on the Team ReRe and there is nothing that can fix this that I can figure out. It needs longer dog bones.

I was able to solve the problem with my Team Gold Re-Release by using 1/4" fuel tubing as a spacer undre the piston on the shock shaft. Cut it about 1/2 inch long, maybe 5/8ths just to be sure and make the cuts very square for full contact. Also make sure you attach the shock to the outermost hole in the rear arm.

I did that as well but there is still barely any dogbone in the outdrives. The cvd definitely needs to be longer. I’m waiting for MIP to restock but AE should have already fixed this by making them longer.

An additional option is the the FanRC +1.5mm CV axle kit (part FR-0064L). These are 3/16th axles that work with JConcepts Mono 2.2 inch wheels, but they require a shim and bushing accessory kit (part FR-0064-ACC), worlds style rear hubs and 3/16 ID bearings. This is not a particularly cheap option and will run $50 to $60 plus wheels. I have the MIP CVD kit #24110. It seems to be about the same length as the stock U-joint axles.

Top Fan RC, middle Re-Re stock, bottom MIP #24110 CVDs

Top = Fan RC +1.5mm CVDs,
Mid = RC10 Team car Re-Re stock axles
Bot = MIP #24110 CVDs.

I ran my OG RC10 Graphite with the U-joint dog bones right on the ragged edge of popping out of the Stealth transmission outdrives and got away with it for years, but both it and my Re-Re team car now have the Fan RC +1.5s. I did have the stock U-joints in the Re-Re team car at first and the tubing solution worked but it was close. The +1.5mm axles provide an extra margin of safety.

EDIT: I don't have the RC10 4wd, but wonder if the rear axles from that kit could be sourced and shimmed to work on the Team car instead of using Fan RC parts.

[Tucsonan]

Since I've posted all the expensive solutions I should at least offer some cheap and easy solutions. It's probably cheapest to just limit shock travel and suspension arm droop a bit more instyead of hunting for longer CVDs and coversions. One way would be to add more spacers in the shock or lengthen the fuel tubing under the piston. Another, probably superior option is to use the 1.02 inch shock shafts in the rear shocks (mentioned by Ronbo, Helbnd1 and RogueIV), possibly with some small spacers.

My old RC10 Graphite had a second inner pair of holes in the shock tower that limited travel when combined with the outermost holes in the rear arms . Even with the OG U-joint axles outer hole to outer hole could cause the dogbone ends to pop out of the outdrives. Unfortunately the new Teamcar tower only has one set of holes.

RC10 graphite shock tower

The more I think about it the more I think the 1.02 shafts in the 1.32 inch shock bodies sounds like the ideal solution. This would cause the shock piston to sit much lower in the shock body keeping it deep in the shock fluid and not up near the air bubbles at the top. It seems like this would give more consistent shock performance through the range of travel and keep that consistency for much longer between shock refills/rebuilds.

I have also read on Facebook that Fan RC ships 1.02 inch shock shafts with their Worlds Graphite kit but I don't own one so I can't verify that.