Corally SP10V – the sad one

[Johanp]

A long time ago I used to race Corally 1:10 scale pan cars. I don´t have any of them anymore. So I´ve been looking for one for my collection.
A couple of weeks ago I found an add for a Corally SP10V locally. Pictures weren´t the best, it was sold as a project/scrap and the description only mentioned a broken rear axle. But for $15 I couldn´t resist to buy it. “How bad can it be?!”

It was really bad... The car has had a rough life.

Every carbon piece had some kind of damage. Cracks, splits, drilled holes, cuts.
The front beam/axle was replaced by a homemade copy made from aluminium.
The broken rear axle (which usually on Corallys means stripped threads for the diff nut. The threads are actually in the carbon) was actually snapped in two!
The part that supports the left hub had broken off at the grub screw.

I can go on Ebay and find some of the broken parts. However, this car is for memories and not for running.
And since I enjoy trying to fix stuff, this is the result so far.

Rear axle fix.
Find your 110mm (4 3/8") chuck, align the broken axle halves in the chuck and apply CA, use filed down carbon dust and CA to fill the gaps, use files/wetsand back to correct diameter.

Upper deck fix:
Separate and clean crack, align to main chassis using the screwbosses, add CA and clamp together, file/wet sand, apply dark color if needed.

Working on the main chassis now, hopefully it will be in a better shape after the weekend.

[JosephS]

I love seeing these pan car restorations.

I'll be looking forward to seeing the rest of it.

[Johanp]

Chassis repair ongoing.
Please don't tell the wife.

[JosephS]

Chassis repair ongoing.
Please don't tell the wife.

20250215_112417.jpg

Why the oven? Are you using pre-preg to reinforce the chassis?

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

A little cheese and pepperoni and you're on to something.

[Johanp]

Why the oven? Are you using pre-preg to reinforce the chassis?

No pre-preg. Just to cold in the workshop to get the epoxy to harden properly. I put the oven on low temp for a couple of hours to speed up the process.
This morning we have -11 degr C ( 12 F) outside temp. My workshop is only heated when I'm there. It gets down to just above freezing when unused during the winter.
I just thought it was a fun picture to post.

[Johanp]

A little cheese and pepperoni and you're on to something.

No pepperoni was harmed during the taking of this picture.

[Johanp]

Couple of pics from this weekends work on the SP10.

Cracked and delaminated corner someone "fixed" with some soft unhardened epoxy. Actually felt more like shoegoo.

Cleaned the area and used CA with filed down carbon dust as filler. Clamped hard in my vise.

Both front corners were cracked and worn thin.
Again fixed with CA and carbon dust.

Used epoxy mixed with carbon dust to fill out added holes and cuts. This is when I had to put it in my oven to help with curing.

20250126_161845_l.jpg (56.41 KiB) Viewed 1018 times

20250126_161845_l.jpg (56.41 KiB) Viewed 1018 times

Reshaping of fixed areas in progress.

Chassis is now wet sanded and coated in dark grey spray paint.
Still in really rough shape, but no longer delaminated and cracked.

[Johanp]

First test assembly.

Since the car came with a home made alu front beam, I hade nothing to make a copy in carbon from.
So I ordered from Fibre-Lyte. They only supply in woven carbon compated to the original carbon that has no visible fibers.

[JosephS]

Looking great!

[Johanp]

Time for an update.

The rubber damper caps are totally finished. They are swollen, brittle and torn. Fortunately my brother had new ones in a bag, which he kindly gave to me.

Opened up my Corally 300 modified and found it to be in very good condition. Some of the green paint on the end of the armature has cracked and fallen off. But it is still a thing of beauty with the perfectly even handwound wire and the little blobb of balancing putty where you can see the fingerprint from whoever put it there 30 ish years ago.

Put the motor in the car, along with the special Corally pinion (extra long to help center the motor) and adjusted the gear mesh.