Kyosho Le Mans 34

[JTSpeedDemon]

I have this Kyosho Le Mans 34 Super Stock motor that I found in the box of the RC10 I'm working on. I can barely find ANY info on the entire internet, so hopefully this will get me some more info on this thing.
Basically, if you know ANYTHING AT ALL about it, your input would be greatly appreciated!

[radioactivity]

JT

Probably a hotter motor than a ROAR legal 27 turn stock motor.
Hobbico advert. Bottom of pages shows your motor.
http://www.retromodelisme.com/pdf/doc/catalogue/kyosho_11/1992_kyosho_usa_catalog.pdf


Chuck

[JTSpeedDemon]

Cool.
Weirdly, searching up even the part number on Kyosho's website returned nil.
It says it has 34 degrees of advance built in. What does that mean?

[radioactivity]

JT

Timing is a method of changing a motors power band. In a brushed motor basically rotating the plastic endbell in relation to the orientation of the metal can.
Most all "stock" brushed motors that I know of have fixed timing. Such as the motor you have. I would not try to change the timing yours.
Advancing the timing can potentially give higher RPMs but generally at the cost of less torque and more heat. Also shorter runtimes.
Heat in brushed motors is the enemy. Your motor at 34 degrees of advance already has 10 degrees more advance than ROAR stock brushed motors of that era, hence "Super Stock".
Retarding the timing gives more torque and less RPMs with less heat. And can give longer runtimes.
It's a trade off.
Generally speaking, when using a motor with more timing advance or even modified motors, the best practice would be to either use a smaller pinion or larger spur. This can help keep the heat down.
I'd guess that the way you received car the gear ratio had already been addressed.
Make sure the motor is clean and lubricated. Make sure the commutator is clean and the brushes are also. There are a few references on the forum to maintenance.

Chuck

[JTSpeedDemon]

Ok, there's a similar concept among us kart rodders, so I get it.
So you're saying gear it lower if I stick in the race motor? It's in perfect, uninstalled condition BTW since it was kept in the factory packaging all these years.

[radioactivity]

JT

That is what I would do.
Watch for excessive temps when running. If after 2-3 mins of running fairly hard you can't hold your finger on the motor, run a smaller pinion or larger spur.
I would also check all the rotating parts for dirt, grit or any problems. Dirt , grit or binding in the trans or outdrive bearings can cause unnecessary drag increasing the load on the motor, ESC and battery.
Excessive load = heat.
One small drop of oil on both of the motor's bearings will be enough. Re-oil after any thorough motor cleaning. Too much oil attracts dirt and debris.
The RC10 tuning tips on Associated''s site are a good reference point. https://img2.associatedelectrics.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10_Classic/RC10_Classic_Kit/manual_RC10Classic_2013.pdf
Don't forget to add the radio interference caps.


Chuck

[JTSpeedDemon]

Well, finally found some by changing the search terms: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=kyosho+super+stock+34&_sacat=0&rt=nc
Looks like I might be able to get ~$40 for it if I'm lucky, but chances are I'll just stick it in the RC10, gear it down and GO FAST!
But that all depends on how I like the current power with the stock motor. I may love it, IDK. If I'm left hankering for power that Kyosho's goin' IN!

[coxbros1]

....I have recently been testing a couple of these..one is new, other I cut comm and added ball bearings...both turn right at 21k @7.2v....not the 28k I read online somewhere....one pulls 4 amps other pulls 2.75