RC10 Retro Racer

[Jeep-Power]

Hub height comparison

[Jeep-Power]

Took it racing this past weekend. TQ'd the 2nd quali, started 2nd in the main , but ran out of tires and talent. My podium mates drove impeccably, to boot.

Had a blast racing it, for the first time.

Need to build some adjustability into the suspension.

Zoo City 2WD Podium

[juicedcoupe]

If using the GT/DS servo saver with the nose plate in the long wheelbase configuration, you should attach the bellcranks/servo saver to the front holes (you might have to tap them, 8-32). Then use 1/4" (100*) screws to attach the nose plate to the chassis.

[1911Colt]

Took it racing this past weekend. TQ'd the 2nd quali, started 2nd in the main , but ran out of tires and talent. My podium mates drove impeccably, to boot.

Had a blast racing it, for the first time.

Need to build some adjustability into the suspension.



img_1_1725402342422.jpg

The photo I want to see is your super cool retro buggy with all of the modern stuff you beat.

Doing some quick math and knowing the size of an RC10, I am thinking you are approximately 8 foot 3. Is that about right?

[Jeep-Power]

If using the GT/DS servo saver with the nose plate in the long wheelbase configuration, you should attach the bellcranks/servo saver to the front holes (you might have to tap them, 8-32). Then use 1/4" (100*) screws to attach the nose plate to the chassis.

ahhh-- this will probably improve the steering geometry significantly. thank you!

[Jeep-Power]

The photo I want to see is your super cool retro buggy with all of the modern stuff you beat.

Doing some quick math and knowing the size of an RC10, I am thinking you are approximately 8 foot 3. Is that about right?

that will be a good photo -- next time! With that said --the heat was all rear-motor cars.

haha -- close. 6'6"

[Jeep-Power]

Had this buggy and the B44.3 out at a friend's backyard clay track this weekend. Making the triple was not possible with this car, but the double was doable, sometimes. Had a blast.

The 8T motor is playing havoc with the ball diff- my slipper must be too tight or I just haven't set the diff correctly. It's all kinds of gritty, with new ceramic balls.

[Jeep-Power]

Upgrades!

The factory nylon front block was not able to retain the shock tower screws.


Went with the blue aluminum DHawk front block to support the 4mm front shock tower.

[Jeep-Power]

Tore the diff down - the new ceramic balls and rings were trashed. Honed the rings smooth & flat and installed some new AE carbide balls I happened to have.

Now, I have been running these cars for over 30 years, but I am embarrassed to admit I never really knew how to properly set up a ball diff. Usually just tightened it down and sent it.

Just watched Spencer Rivkin's videos on ball diff and slipper setup - made a huge improvement and took the guesswork out of the process.

Diff build - I think he uses WAY too much clear grease, but he is a WC. Some good tips, none-the-less - https://youtu.be/lWXnyoxFwCc?si=GVR48U_8ZXZz7YVw

Diff break-in & tune; this is where the magic happens - https://youtu.be/eoFrvin7zrU?si=4_P6xLwXJ3HjtCth


Oh, and this is a great AE vid with TJ Eller on slipper clutch setup - https://youtu.be/g9xW2IN62So?si=ipVlZCqp1o5wxIs4