QIDI Plus4 - 3D Printer

[XLR8]

Hmm. Is the change to WB because Manx chassis plate length differs from the stock FRP plate?
Anyway, the roll bar and rear guard fasten directly to the transmission which is standard SRB so I don't understand why there is a problem. How does the Manx roll bar differ from the standard SRB part with regard to pipe joint location?
Anyway, I should be able to design whatever you will need. I just need to understand what changes are needed.

EDIT:
Using the link that's provided on Knight Customs website to a Manx build on SBG message board, I've found this photo.

It looks like they have you cut the stock SRB roll bar.

[GreenBar0n]

Yes, shorter chassis pan.


The problem is that cross bar they say to cut out, is what holds up the rear of the Manx body, it also is right where the other half of the pipe joint goes.






I guess the body can rest on the rear cage, and pipe joints, if I use the stock roll bar and cut it down. Will do that, thanks for looking in to that.

Missed that build link there.
https://www.scalebuildersguild.com/forum/threads/srb-based-manx.20713/page-7

[XLR8]

Ah, now I see it -- thanks.
A design flaw, perhaps.
Anyway, I have merged the inner half of the pipe joints with the Manx roll bar and uploaded the stl file to the Beach Buggy Body Set on the Google drive.

[GreenBar0n]

Nice work! Headed over there to print this one out, and be back for a fitting update. Thanks!!

[GreenBar0n]

The new rear cross bar and half pipe joints work really well!


But the rear shock stroke length is too short, to allow the chassis to sit level.


The front shocks have a longer stroke, and might be the correct length in order to match the front and rear suspension.


I tired to mount the front shock in the rear, but the eyelets on the front shocks won't line up for the rear. I should have some more silver and black PLA coming today. The white PETG-Tough is nice for strength, but it's not as pretty to look at.

[XLR8]

Hmmm. The CAD model sets level so not sure what has happened. Anyway, it's an easy fix. What length does your model need to establish desired ride height?
At least they're not leaking.

[GreenBar0n]

No leaky shocks to report yet, on the real thing either.

Hard to say where the rear should sit, if the rear tires are larger than the front.

I would guess that with the rear shocks attached, the rear arms should be level, or parallel with the chassis. That seems like it might be the place to start. Would it be easier to make the rear shock stroke, the same length as the front? When I hold up the front shock to the rear, that seems pretty close to the right length.

No hurry or pressure, thanks!!

[XLR8]

I agree; rear arms should be level. On the CAD model, front shocks are 61.85 while rears are 50.20.
I could make the shocks functional but then you would need springs. Does anyone make spring steel filament?

BTW, how do the fronts look; is length correct?

[GreenBar0n]

That looks perfect! I was going to reprint the front pivot axles today in PETG, the PLA probably won't hold up at that angle, I can't tell how the front lines up just yet, but that front shock length looks correct, and level.

The real SRB gets crazy positive camber in the rear, I have to adjust it to make it sit level on the shelf, otherwise it looks like it's on stilts in the rear.

[GreenBar0n]

Suspension works like this, lots of friction, but the pivots move in those caps like the metal parts do. Everything fit together easily, due to the accuracy of the model. Broke the passenger side upper front arm, printing a new one now, should be able to finish the front suspension tonight.

[GreenBar0n]

@XLR8, my mistake, I gave you the wrong dimensions when I said the pipe joint was where the crossbar was, it was lower, that's why the shock was too short earlier. Also wasn't thinking this is PLA, and easy to make it work.




Will get the other side completed shortly.

Also, @XLR8 check out the new GoMachV folder in our Google Drive, Santa showed up early this year .

[GreenBar0n]

Will get back to printing. Work, and retro computer restorations have been taking over lately.


Waiting on a pair of ROM chips for the SX-64, and a keyboard membrane still.


But I did get a package from QIDI today, and less than three business days from the moment I contacted them.




Included tools, the allen wrench has a ball end on it.

Good thing I really like to take stuff apart and repair it, this replacement was more involved than I had anticipated. Might do this tonight.

[GreenBar0n]

Glad I didn't follow that QIDI factory video blindly. I'm not replacing my entire Chamber Heater as shown in their Factory video, just the SSR, so I only needed to remove the back cover and not pull the entire top and bottom off - as the factory video would seem to suggest.

Made an addendum to the factory video.


Out with the old.


In with the new.








Back in business.


Was worth the peace of mind, and ability to use the high temp filaments. Took about an hour to complete, would've been quicker, but the factory video sent me in a wrong direction, that's why I made that video, to hopefully save someone the hassle of taking it all apart to find out it wasn't even necessary.

[GreenBar0n]

I printed the Tamiya Sand Scorcher driver figure, from a CAD model I purchased a while ago.

I printed the face in three different orientations.

The faces shown are in the orientation that they were printed in. Notice the color, or reflectivity is exactly the same between all three.


Same color/shading in a flash photo.


But look what happens to the color/shade of the outer left and right faces when their orientation differs from how they were printed.


It's as if the CAD modeling light position is also engraved in these images.


That's QIDI PLA Silver Metallic filament, not sure if a non-reflective filament would produce this same effect also.

[XLR8]

I'm guessing metallic filament behaves like metallic paint; the color tone varies with changes in lighting angle.
Your parts look like metal.

Anyway, thanks for posting. It's good to know what's possible with unpainted printed parts.