Fan RC FR-01

[Rc10812]

First of all thanks for the response. And I'm sorry for not quite getting it yet. I mean I get what you explain. You explained it well but what is the best solution? Do I just build the shocks with the same parts provided in the kit or do I need either a new shaft or a new spacer? Clearly I'm just not computing something here so again I apologize. I don't have any fuel line but I do have a ton of those little red rubber o- rings I could use as spacers. But it kind of seems like I should just buy the 1.32 shafts. Or is that a waste of time and should I just use 3/8" worth of spacers?

Guys I'm sorry. I'll try not to be this gullible in the future. Lol!

[morrisey0]

The experts will correct me if I am wrong here, but you should be able to build them as all the non worlds rear shocks were built. Stick a ~5/8" piece of tube on the shaft under the piston and call it done.


EDIT: I built mine without any spacers in them to see if it was possible, but no, not really. Something needs to be in there to limit them to keep the d-shafts from getting too close to the edge of the cups.

[scr8p]

If they are 1.32 bodies and 1.32 shaft, put 3/8" worth of spacers in them, and mount them in the 3rd hole from the outside on the tower and outer hole on the arm.

Put them together and test fit them before filling with oil. Make sure the drivetrain is free, you have a good amount of droop without the cva's dragging on anything and the bones don't pop out of the outdrives. If they pass all of that, put oil in them.

[Rc10812]

Ok well now that the shock thing makes a little more sense ... although of course I just figured out that I can't measure the shock shaft to see for myself but oh well.

Now back to the part of assembly that I'm actually at... I asked about the connection between the outdrive hub and the diff ring before. I found it interesting that the world's car instructions call for diff lube on the ring and hub connection.

The "championship edition" inductions which included the stealth trans says to make sure it's clean and free of burrs. No lube. Kinda the opposite of with lube... lol. Any thoughts? I always assumed you didn't want those rings to slip on the hub? Am I wrong? Wouldn't be surprised if I am would we? Haha

Another shocker... I haven't figured out how to post pictures yet but I do have them. Pg 14 of the C.E manual and Pg 7 of the world's.

[Rc10812]

Really thank you guys for your information it's greatly appreciated.

[Rc10812]

Anyone else unable to get the thrust bolt with greased washers and diff balls into the hub? I tried for a couple hours last night and could not even come close. Without the balls the washers will fit in but it's almost like the balls are too big or the diameter of the bolt is too big for it all to fit inside the hub.

Also, there is a brass colored quasi ball bearing that I can't figure out where it goes. It looks like the kind that was used on early stealth trannies on the slipper clutch for the spur gear. But this one didn't fit on that shaft. I assume it's part of the thrust bolt assembly? Also there were 12 balls included which only 6 are called for to use. Am I supposed to disregard the 12 balls and use the brass ball bearing washer instead?

I don't know what I'm doing wrong here. Anyone have any suggestions? I read something about back in the day the rebuild kits just offered a bushing for this which only confuses me more.

[RogueIV]

Anyone else unable to get the thrust bolt with greased washers and diff balls into the hub? I tried for a couple hours last night and could not even come close. Without the balls the washers will fit in but it's almost like the balls are too big or the diameter of the bolt is too big for it all to fit inside the hub.

Also, there is a brass colored quasi ball bearing that I can't figure out where it goes. It looks like the kind that was used on early stealth trannies on the slipper clutch for the spur gear. But this one didn't fit on that shaft. I assume it's part of the thrust bolt assembly? Also there were 12 balls included which only 6 are called for to use. Am I supposed to disregard the 12 balls and use the brass ball bearing washer instead?

I don't know what I'm doing wrong here. Anyone have any suggestions? I read something about back in the day the rebuild kits just offered a bushing for this which only confuses me more.

The 12 balls included are for the diff gear not the thrust assembly. The thrust assembly uses the caged ball unit. You should be using the rere Worlds instructions for the most part but the 5/64 balls are replaced by that caged unit.

https://img2.associatedelectrics.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10WC/Worlds_Car/RC10WC-Manual-updated.pdf

[Rc10812]

Oh geez! RIGHT! I forgot I bought ceramic balls! Which would make the 12 count of those balls make total sense. What a newb mistake. Ugh. Sometimes I can't get out of my own way. Thank you! Of course the balls are too big they are the diff balls.

I am not exactly sure but I thought I was using the correct world's instructions. Got them off the rc10 website. I did also print out a couple other versions like the C.E. and original graphite chassis instructions. Mostly because those instructions are more descriptive but I only refer to them when I get hung up on something that the world's instructions are vague about. I'm pretty sure that the version of world's inductions I'm using shows the use of the makeshift washer/ ball thrust bolt and not the captured ball unit (thanks for teaching me that term by the way) so I'll have to try to look and see if I do in fact have the re re instructions.

Thanks Rogue! You've been a big help.

[RogueIV]

Oh geez! RIGHT! I forgot I bought ceramic balls! Which would make the 12 count of those balls make total sense. What a newb mistake. Ugh. Sometimes I can't get out of my own way. Thank you! Of course the balls are too big they are the diff balls.

I am not exactly sure but I thought I was using the correct world's instructions. Got them off the rc10 website. I did also print out a couple other versions like the C.E. and original graphite chassis instructions. Mostly because those instructions are more descriptive but I only refer to them when I get hung up on something that the world's instructions are vague about. I'm pretty sure that the version of world's inductions I'm using shows the use of the makeshift washer/ ball thrust bolt and not the captured ball unit (thanks for teaching me that term by the way) so I'll have to try to look and see if I do in fact have the re re instructions.

Thanks Rogue! You've been a big help.

No problem!

The Associated Website can be a bit weird to deal with, they have 2 different entries for the Worlds car but don't mention that the 2nd one is the rerelease. I added the link to my previous post. Regardless, It doesn't show the caged/captured thrust ball assembly but it is a common part especially in modern ball diffs and are a bit easier to deal with (like these https://www.amainhobbies.com/avid-rc-2.5x6x3mm-associated-tlr-differential-thrust-bearing-tungsten-carbide-avdf2.5-6m-tc/p267171). Be sure to use the thicker black grease for this and not the silicone stuff.

[Rc10812]

Yeah I had a hunch that the captured thrust ball assembly was for this thrust bolt. But yeah the instructions I have do show the old greased washer type. That coupled with the fact that I already had diff balls in the gear which made me think the larger size balls were not the diff balls and were merely an excessive amount of thrust balls threw me off. Can't wait to get back at the build later with my new found knowledge.

Going back to the rings and hubs... I did very lightly use 800 grit sandpaper on both sides of the rings. There was some grit in the connection when the parts were put together. I also put the hubs in the drill and spun them on a scouring pad briefly which helped removed some of the roughness in the operation. I didn't go crazy but I'm hoping this helps make a smooth diff.

[morrisey0]

Going back to the rings and hubs... I did very lightly use 800 grit sandpaper on both sides of the rings. There was some grit in the connection when the parts were put together. I also put the hubs in the drill and spun them on a scouring pad briefly which helped removed some of the roughness in the operation. I didn't go crazy but I'm hoping this helps make a smooth diff.

If you can't get them to the point that you like, ASC6579 is the AE part number for the rings. They are about $9+s&h for the pair.

I kept my FanRC ones to the side, thinking I may sand on them and make them work, but as long as they are available elsewhere, I probably won't get around to that.

[Rc10812]

How tight or how much effort should it take to twist the diff? I feel like mine could be slightly loose but the problem is that I pulled the brass threads out of the plastic t-nut while tightening it down. I was very careful and went slow but there was no real point where I could feel it bottom out the spring. It sort of just kept turning with the same medium resistance. I used some CA to glue the threads back in the housing of the t- nut and reassembled it. This time I just stopped twisting when the t-nut looked to be just about at the end of the slots in the hub. I'm just worried it's not tight enough. It feels pretty smooth. Not exceptionally smooth but I think passable.

[morrisey0]

Something sounds off there. The brass/plastic t-nut should tighten down on the spring firmly without being able to pull the insert out.

[Rc10812]

I agree. I ordered a new one. I just took it apart again and the brass threads were halfway out. The CA didn't hold it. Didn't really expect it to. There's a decent amount of pressure needed to compress that spring. Maybe it was just a bad part. I kept turning slowly to feel the point where the pressure needed to spin the bolt got to the point where it took more than medium effort. That point never came and then I felt a small click. And the diff was loose. I disassembled it and the brass insert was pulled all the way out of the plastic and stuck in the middle of the spring. The little ears on the t-nut never got down all the way to the end of the slots in the hub. Pretty close but maybe like a little less than a millimeter or about a half millimeter.

[Rc10812]

Ok so to update my progress... I did order a new thrust bolt and t nut. Two of them actually and even a new spring. However they won't arrive for a week or so. So I decided to keep pressing on. I came up with a plan to repair the t nut I have. I made a small washer to put between the t nut and spring to hopefully block the brass insert from being able to be pulled into the center of the spring. And used an epoxy to glue the insert into the nylon t nut. From my estimation the spring compresses only 1/16 of an inch so I measured the travel of the t nut as I tightened and stopped at exactly 1/16". The diff felt ok. Not the kind of buttery smooth I'd brag about in the pits but decent. Mostly smooth with a bit of roughness like when changing the direction I'm twisting. The real problem came when I put the whole gearbox together. It feels rough. When I spin one outdrive it doesn't spin the gears it just spins the diff/ other outdrive the opposite way for the most part. Should the drag from the gearbox really be enough resistance to engage the diff? The diff is not terribly loose prior to installation. At worst I'd classify it as only slightly looser than ideal. But I admit I don't really know how tight it should feel.

Now I ordered a bunch of parts from Associated that will hopefully help some of these issues but I gotta think that there's either a problem with the gears or the trans case itself which i think was addressed earlier in this thread. I didn't mind ordering upgraded ceramic diff balls and the t-nut well I'll take the blame for that although reluctantly. Hell I don't even mind getting AE diff rings. But to think now I'll have to basically totally buy replacement parts for the entire trans is really disappointing. It appears as though i can get new cases through AE along with a diff gear (not sure if it's the right size) , a top shaft and hubs. I'm not sure about the idler gear it didn't appear to be available. But to think that all of these parts need to be replaced is just crazy. This kit cost $400!

I'm going to get it all together and run a few batteries through it and see what happens. I'll do gladly eat these words if it all "breaks in". I'm keeping an open mind because I'm so grateful to have this kit again. Just worried it's not quite up to a standard.