RC10 DS Classic - Build

[GreenBar0n]

I'll be fitting the Stock body on this chassis with the black and green boxart. Will also fit a couple custom bodies to this chassis, and may get another DS at some point for those.



Time to get started.

[GreenBar0n]

The instruction manual comes with a 1:1 parts fold-out, this should've been how all of them were done.




A Fast Eddy's bearing kit will be here tomorrow, going to get as far as I can without them.
https://www.fasteddybearings.com/team-associated-rc10ds-classic-kit-sealed-bearing-kit/

[Dustydrone]

I'll be fitting the Stock body on this chassis with the black and green boxart. Will also fit a couple custom bodies to this chassis, and may get another DS at some point for those.



Time to get started.

I'm looking forward to this build!

[GreenBar0n]

In the manual the wheels and tires are Bag H, found on the second to last page. Apologies for doing this out of order, it's a habit I can't break.
https://img2.associatedelectrics.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10DS/Classic_Kit/RC10DS-Vintage-Manual-2024-V1.pdf

The front tires are really thin and pliable, like nothing I've seen before. The traction these must offer is going to be incredible!


Wheels look good without the caps too.


DS wheels next to HPI 12mm hex wheel, the DS wheels are a bit smaller.


Going to order some ASC1697 Tire Adhesive.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-factory-team-ca-glue-tire-adhesive-mediumthin-asc1697/p1550641



Will begin at Step1 in the manual now, thanks for humoring me.

[GreenBar0n]

I took a look at the paint required for the DS boxart. The black would be Tamiya PS-5, but the green is a bit harder to figure out.





To me it looks most like Tamiya PS-21 Park Green.


PS-22 Racing Green seems too dark.


Going to order PS-21 Park Green, unless anyone knows the exact color it should be.

[MarkyDents]

So strange to see that rubber say Team Associated and not Proline

[GreenBar0n]

Taking a break, about done with Bag A.



Was not expecting the foam dust covers, like the ones that originally came with my '96 CE and '97 GT kits.

[GreenBar0n]

Steering plate finished.


The ball cups had to have the sprue trimmed off of them still. Used the old AE kit tools to build the turnbuckles, no marks left anywhere.







Ran into a problem, was missing (2) ball studs from Bag A, tore the place apart looking for them.




The problem is in the manual, they tell you to add the ball studs for the front sway bar out of Bag A:


Once you get to the steering assembly, you're missing (2) ball studs from Bag A, because they are in the front arms for the sway bar. In Bag B, which contains the sway bar, are the (2) missing ball studs:




Hope that saves someone else some wasted time and grief.

Other issue with the manual, in the BHCS screw section on the cover flap, the 3/8" and 5/16" BHCS 1:1 size chart are missing:

[GreenBar0n]

Left the front body posts off for now.


Bags A and B are done. Don't have a steering servo picked out just yet and Bag C is all about it. Bearings will be here tomorrow, need to decide on vintage style electronics, or modern.

[GreenBar0n]

Went with the Hobbywing brushless 3650 motor and ESC combo.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywing-xr10-justock-g3s-sensored-brushless-esc-sd-g2.1-motor-combo-hwa38020372/p1544565

And a Reedy Hi Speed servo.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/reedy-2513mg-digital-hispeed-metal-gear-servo-high-voltage-asc27152/p1395822

Tamiya PS-5 Black, and PS-21 Park Green are on the way too.

[GreenBar0n]

Bag C is for the steering servo, and battery cup. My servo won't be here for a bit, so I'll leave Bag C sealed for now.


Time to get the rear half built.

That's a big D bag.

Comes with three different sets of blocks for rear toe in, 0°, 1.5°, and 3°. Not sure which to choose yet.


Going to try to finish the chassis tonight.

After reading this:
https://rcguided.com/rc-rear-toe-tuning-simplified/

I'm going with the 1.5° toe-blocks.

[GreenBar0n]

Rear half.


This DS manual is sabotage at this point. How did this happen, where the ball stud busted out of the backside?


The manual shows this picture, but in the 1:1 size chart on the cover flap, the ball studs are not available to measure.


The rear sway bar is still sealed when you open Bag D, there are (4) long ball studs in Bag D. I now have two extra holes in my arms because of this.



Sway bar ball studs are in the sway bar bags, do not use any other ball stud for that location, ignore the manual!


Next manual problem, the rear bulkhead ball studs. Can anyone tell me exactly where the camber tie-rod ball studs go according to this pic?


Here's where I had to guess they went, this is the rear of the bulkhead:


If a socket won't fit on here, are the camber tie-rods going to?


Will look at the vintage DS manual to see if it makes any sense on the rear bulkhead ball studs. What is it with this model and ball studs??

[GreenBar0n]

Vintage manual sorted it out.


Going to keep the vintage manual close by from now on.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2176101/Associated-Electrics-Team-Associated-Rc10-Ds-Dual-Sport.html

[GoMachV]

unfortunately AE forgot about thew Worlds holes on the new bulkheads. Best alternative is the inside under the wing tube holes where you have them. It was always impossible to get a driver in there haha. A tamiya took just sqeaks by

[juicedcoupe]

It was always impossible to get a driver in there haha.

Swap the ball studs for some Custom Works versions. They have the 3/16 hex shoulder and 1/16 internal hex, still 4-40 threads.