Kyosho SRT, or is it SRT Outrage?

[RC10th]

Well, with my pile of parts it turns out I have collected enough parts to put together 90% of another truck. I always liked the looks of Kyosho ST's, so this is the hodgepodge I came up with.

It's basically left over Tra**as parts so you really couldn't call it a Kyosho. However, it would look very similar to this.

This is another body I'd like to get.....

The Outrage is a bit shorter than the SRT so I'll have to make a shorter chassis to accommodate the body, but that's easy enough to do.

Now the question is to use stock black parts and gold shocks to keep it looking Kyosho or use the fancy blue parts that don't really fit the theme? I'm leaning towards stock black plastic

[RC10th]

Gearbox time !!


I bought another 4620 diff for this truck and I attempted to drill out the output shafts which I wanted to do with my race SRT. Needless to say it turned out a lot better then I was expecting.

This diff feels better than the other two tra**as diffs that I built, go figure. The only difference is that I forgot to order carbide balls so they are just chrome steel. I'll order a set of carbide or ceramic for the next rebuild.

I've decided to try all nylon gears again, so we'll see how they hold up since this truck will have healthy boost and turbo settings. The top shaft is an Avid AE conversion top shaft, POM gear, Team Brood magnesium slipper plates, and AE slipper pads.

[RC10th]

The early tra**as gear cover wouldn't fit so I had to come up with another option, why not try a B4 gear cover of all things?

Sure enough it fit with a bit of drilling and tapping and it clears a large 87 tooth spur so plenty of gear options.

I'm not sure if this will be the motor I'll use or not but I like it, it was the motor I bought for my race truck before I found out they were running boring old blinky 17.5's

[RC10th]

Rear driveline sorted, I'll probably have to hit Jeff up for a few parts soon-ish.

I can't really do much about a rear shock tower until I get a chassis made to see how the body fits. I'll probably have to make a custom lower tower as the back of the Outrage body is quite flat.

I also forgot to get some RIT dye to dye the battery box

[RC10th]

Another piece of the puzzle, incognito black steering set from Factory Works. I'm struggling to find someone who has 2.5mm black G10 here. Ebay has G10 sheets but they are all 300mm and I need 330mm

[RC10th]

Amongst other progress and going back and forth between shortening a chassis or not I painted a body. I suck at painting but I used a tape that I like better than Tamiya masking tape. It's about as simple as you can get but still 5 colors. My camera makes it look pinkish but it's definitely red.

[RC10th]

I found the pièce de résistance. I think I found the only set of NOS roof lights on the interwebs and grabbed them, hopefully they don't get ripped off first run. Kinda sad really as someone probably needs them for a restoration.

[RC10th]

I finally dyed the battery box and made some new low profile shock towers to fit the SRT body, so far so good. The front tower is 10mm shorter and the rear tower 18mm shorter while still retaining the stock shock angles. I just need to make the rear trans brace before I get back onto the chassis which is roughly cut out and half drilled pending my final decision on length.

[RC10th]

I finally had the motivation and time to finish shortening a chassis. I wanted to shorten it 20mm as I felt this looked the best but then a full size lipo wouldn't fit, so I compromized and it ended up 15mm shorter than stock. It's still in the mock-up stage so I still need to scribe the final shape, give it a final trim, and countersink the holes. I also need to make a top deck which is the last major part, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel

[Chewbacca]

You could change your servo position and perhaps the steering setup to gain space for a full size battery.

- a low profile servo mounted sideways and standing without any change to the steering linkages

- a B3 / B4 style steering with a low profile servo mounted sideways, but laying down

Both options would free up enough space, so you could shorten the chassis by the desired 20mm.

[RC10th]

You could change your servo position and perhaps the steering setup to gain space for a full size battery.

- a low profile servo mounted sideways and standing without any change to the steering linkages

- a B3 / B4 style steering with a low profile servo mounted sideways, but laying down

Both options would free up enough space, so you could shorten the chassis by the desired 20mm.

I've thought about that, I think I have one set of NIX10M steering bellcranks left which would work perfect. 5mm over the length of the truck isn't much and you probably couldn't tell anyways at the end of the day. it still looks good. I'll post a pic with the body once I make the top plate, it is pretty low and wide.