The RC Corvette in - (1988) The Dead Pool - Clint Eastwood

[GreenBar0n]

Unless you emailed a cricket. In that case it is ok, expected really.

Hmmm... what was Jimnny's email address again?...

I would like to ask him about the corn cracking, and the reason for the apathetic song.

[GreenBar0n]

Reference pics of the actual movie car, for this page.
























The Dead Pool RC Corvette chase scene.


Car #1


Jammin' Jay RC10

[GreenBar0n]

Got the Dhawk TDP wheels yesterday, they're exactly what I ordered, beautiful craftsmanship.

Tried all of the foam donuts that I had purchased in anticipation, and none of those foam donuts fit the TDP wheels yesterday. Was so bummed out over the money and time spent, to have it all not work as I had hoped for.

Here's the $20 TRC set I thought might work, it has an ID of 1.88" like most Team Associated foam/donut RC10 wheels; they're so big the front rim is floating in the foam donut.

I now have (2) extra donut sets that won't work for this project, and was thinking I had spent a lot of money on wheels that would never have the correct donuts.


But today, a Proline Jaco donut set arrived, I didn't have much hope for them after the other donuts, but they're exactly right, couldn't be more perfect for the rear wheels!



Have another pair of these Proline Jaco's coming for the front wheels, so stoked to have finally found the right ones.

Currently mounted are the 40th knockoffs, with the lesser quality chrome paint; the vintage NOS knockoffs with Revell chrome spray, will go on when these donuts are all glued and trued.



The second pair of donuts should be here next week, then I'll get the body cut to match them.

[GreenBar0n]

Rough cut the wheel wells to the bare minimum to get tires in there, need the front foam donuts before I can finish the kydex front bumper/velcro body mount.


1CW0562: The Dead Pool movie came out in July of 1988, made the registration tags valid from Jul '87, as we all now know what became of 1CW0562 Car #1, in the movie, and real life.




Something else showed up today, that looks like the interference kids car.



Need to decide if the 40th, or the mid-late Edinger will assume the interference car role.

The Andy's JJH body will have the MCI JJH sticker kit on it and be a composite of both the movie car, and a tribute to the race car. If I can find the Proline black 100-F rims, and 1003 Knobby tires, this Andy's JJH body would go full race tribute.

The front donuts, and a tire truer should be here by the end of the week, then I can get the body fitted properly and the wheel wells cleanly cut.

[RogueIV]

I never caught on that the kids playing were driving Jammin' Jay's car That's a pretty neat easter egg.

[GreenBar0n]

Got the front bumper/velcro body mount shaped. Also got the foam donuts for the front wheels. These donuts still need to be glued, trued, and then rounded and smoothed with a file. Too hot to work outside today, will finish the donuts tomorrow. More on the tire shaping here: https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=49483





Have the double sided tape ready to put the kydex side wings on, but need the tire shaping completed before that.


Front fits well.


Have (2) Bolink '63 Corvette bodies to make sure this gets done right, one way or another.

[Dangeruss]

Need to decide if the 40th, or the mid-late Edinger will assume the interference car role.

Sophies Choice, that one.

[GreenBar0n]

The Edinger seemed more authentic, had to do it.




Need to get the Andy's body to fit the JJH rear shock tower, will decide tomorrow whether to put the shocks back in the stock outer location so the body fits, or trim the body to JJH specs.

[GreenBar0n]

Got a Futaba 111B ESC, like the real one. Need to extend the leads with the correct color wires.


Got everything to build the 7-cell pack.


A 1/10 arbor for my tyre truer will be here tomorrow that hopefully allows me to adapt it from metric to imperial, in order to be able to true the front wheel donuts.


Getting the wheels together on this project has been the most difficult of all. Will update the foam donut thread when the arbor arrives tomorrow. Need this to go right, in order to move any further.
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=49483

[MarkyDents]

Those wheels look like they came out phenomenal

[GreenBar0n]

Those wheels look like they came out phenomenal

Dhawk makes a quality product, really happy with these, thanks!


Got the foam donuts glued on and trued. Time to start making the body mounts.

Kydex is easy to shape with a heat gun, here are the body mount side wings with a 90° angle.


Kydex is also very easy to score and snap, like lexan.


Only need one score line really but I do three light traces over the same score line, don't even need to press hard with a new blade.












I should've been more careful when scoring the driver side wing, to make sure to stay in the same score line - I let the blade walk out of the line by less than a millimeter and when I went to 'snap' the Kydex, the cut line splintered, leaving a jagged line. Have to make another driver side wing, and then get some 3M velcro to mount the body.

[GreenBar0n]

Both side wings on and ready for velcro.










Going to use the test body on there now to make adjustments and get the right shape for the wheel wells, then make this second body as clean as I can. Going to use Alclad II chrome lexan spray for the grills and bumpers on the new body, the test body has Tamiya X-11 brush paint on it.

[GreenBar0n]

Velcro body mounts finished.




Body fits really snug now, the velcro allows the body to sit higher or lower on the chassis, which will make it easier to get the clearances right.




What's slowing the battery pack down is the left over solder job from the PO, he must've used a blow torch to solder those on there.


I have a Hakko 888 soldering iron, and a wooden handle 200W iron, these won't even begin to get the solder to melt. Can't leave that leftover cable on there as the batteries won't fit together neatly. Going to try a dremel and the cutoff wheel to remove that.

[azone]

What's slowing the battery pack down is the left over solder job from the PO, he must've used a blow torch to solder those on there.

where are you located? I could have it done for you. We have countless soldering tools at my business and could likely get it looking excellent. In any event just need a proper iron w/a proper tip to get old remnants off, solder braid to clean up the left over solder, and some 99% isopropyl & boars hair brush and wipes to clean up the residue. Put some kapton tape around the yellow wrap to protect it.

[GreenBar0n]

What's slowing the battery pack down is the left over solder job from the PO, he must've used a blow torch to solder those on there.

where are you located? I could have it done for you. We have countless soldering tools at my business and could likely get it looking excellent. In any event just need a proper iron w/a proper tip to get old remnants off, solder braid to clean up the left over solder, and some 99% isopropyl & boars hair brush and wipes to clean up the residue. Put some kapton tape around the yellow wrap to protect it.

Much thanks for the offer! Walnut Creek, CA is where I'm at.

These yellow Sanyo's will be going inside yellow shrink wrap, so they won't need to be pretty, just perfectly flat on the ends. This will also be a false battery pack that will lift out of there in one piece - shelf display only. Going to use a new NiMh pack to actually drive this one.


I have some really good flux from a hot air flow station I have here, I think I'll try the flux with the Hakko 888, and fresh solder to see if I can get that old solder hot enough - I previously tried just iron heat. If that won't cut it, the dremel and cutoff will make an appearance.

Thanks again @azone!