XLR8 wrote: ↑Mon May 20, 2024 1:37 pm
GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Mon May 20, 2024 1:16 pm
This is great! I really appreciate all of your input, thanks guys!
I can't afford to do this wrong and ruin the original parts, and hearing all of your success stories, and best practices, makes me feel more comfortable about doing this.
First, I soaked all of the white plastics in water, it has been about 10 hours so far.
Should I remove all of the ball studs, e-clips, and hinge pins, or can I soak this all in peroxide like it is?
Thanks again!
Yes, absolutely remove the metal.
Otherwise the metal will rust and stain the nylon.
Also, leaving the screws and pins in place will trap peroxide so you definitely will want to remove them first.
Wasn't sure if that was stainless hardware, I'll remove it. Thanks!
For the record: I have no problem with patina, my '66 VW Bus is all original paint, and still wearing the body damage from it's previous life and the original owner before me, or 1989.
But this vintage RC10 I would like it to be even in fade, and color, not marked from the sun sitting carelessly in a window. It can re-yellow after this process and it won't bother me a bit, but I'll keep it out of the window and let it fade naturally, as time goes by.
Also will not boil the parts, but simmer them, just before the boil and for less than 5 minutes to cure. I did the Rit Dymore project recently, near boil with thin parts at 15 minutes, there were 0 negative effects. The molding process to form these parts is well above boiling, so I'll be careful.
Thanks again guys!