
So I have been working on making this Trackmaster dirt oval replica chassis that has built in shorty lipo battery braces. The wheelbase has been shortened to 10-3/4" for better maneuverability around the oval. It's made of 1/8" natural G10 fiberglass.
The front arm mounts have been offset by 2 degrees for oval racing. The front tower has 6-holes on each side for a wide range of upper shock mounting locations.
I realize the front spindle carriers need to be changed to World's or CE type, or I can flip them around to achieve proper steering geometry. However, all I have are Edinger parts, and I'm not eager to go hacking on them with a dremel.

The steering servo pod plate that I designed has a 2 degree offset just like the front tower, to keep everything raked at the same angle on the front end. I added some extra cutouts for weight savings.
Getting proper oval wheels and tires, making a bumper with body mounts, installing the Andy's narrow rear body mount, and painting a Mcallister Mustang Wedge body are the last few things to do. Oh, and the counter sinks under the chassis.
The carbon fiber chassis has an 11" wheelbase, and has the battery cup holes spaced-inward for mounting the battery cups close enough to allow a shorty lipo to fit in the two cups. The shorty battery brace that I designed for the CF10 chassis (not pictured) will allow the user to mount the shorty lipo either forward biased or rearward, thanks to a delrin adjustable stop. Also, the front arm mounts are not raked 2 degrees, and is better suited for drag or parking lot racing.
I'm up in the air on if I should mount the servo pod with standoffs, or without? I think it would be better to mount it low ( I added a few pics without the standoffs in the first few pics below.


I just wanted to share what I've been working on with you guys, and I hope you enjoy!

Servo pod plate without standoffs:



With standoffs:

